Today’s tasting features an exciting array of beer styles rooted in Flemish, Wallonian, German, and Czech traditions. This remarkable set comes courtesy of Czech brewery Zichovec, which has teamed up with brewers from Sweden, England, the Netherlands, and France, all imbued with creativity as part of their intriguing Winter Affair Gossip series. I stumbled upon these enticing brews several months ago at an unbeatable price in the Craft Central bargain bucket, making this tasting a joyous occasion rather than a pricey endeavor.
I hold a firm belief that pilsner should remain untouched by the whims of craft-style experimentation. However, the label reading “Quad-Decocted Pilsner” initially raised my apprehension about a potential overhaul by overly imaginative craft enthusiasts, albeit Czech ones. Omnipollo, traditionally not associated with pilsner, is also involved in this collaboration. Pouring it reveals a beautifully pale amber, unfiltered appearance reminiscent of classic Czech pilsners. The aroma, thankfully, is a welcome comfort; it strikes a solid balance between crispy, biscuit-like malt and the fresh, green notes of noble hops. Yet, there’s an unexpected pivot in the foretaste. This pilsner exhibits a distinctly sweeter profile than most typical varieties, presenting a heavier mouthfeel. The initial taste evokes images of soft toffee or a gooey caramel sensation, undeniably influenced by the decocting process that enriches the beer’s structure. This brew is undeniably richer than one might anticipate from a pilsner, edging closer to bock or Märzen territory while the hops emerge at the finish, creating a pleasant dryness that cuts through the malt’s richness. Ultimately, this reinterpretation of pilsner is both intriguing and enjoyable. Personally, I lean towards the more hop-centric variations, and it’s worth noting that this can had surpassed its best-before date by two days, possibly affecting its hoppiness; regardless, the experience remains thoroughly enjoyable, piquing my curiosity about the innovative interpretations Zichovec and their esteemed collaborators have in store.
Venturing further afield from traditional stylistic expectations and even European labeling laws, we encounter the intriguing DDH New Zealand Kölsch, a collaboration co-led by Northern Monk. True to Northern Monk’s innovative image, the appearance of this beer mimics that of a hazy IPA, and its aroma follows suit, filling the air with notes reminiscent of vanilla mixed with garlic. Although the taste diverges significantly from this initial olfactory impression, it strays quite far from traditional Kölsch territory. If this brew were presented in a homebrew competition, it would likely not meet the established criteria for success. Dismissing the distracting label, we genuinely assess the beer on its own merits—an evaluation revealing it to be a delightful experience. While the specific Kiwi hops employed remain a mystery, the vibrant flavors of tropical gourds and stone fruits explode on the palate, with sweet cantaloupe and succulent mango as the dominant notes, accompanied by hints of lychee that culminate in a refreshing coconut finish. With a 6% ABV, its density and warmth resonate beautifully with its strength. Even with five days remaining before the best-before deadline, it remains delightfully fresh and utterly enjoyable.
This tasting introduces me to a new collaboration with Hoppy Witbier, a beer crafted with White Dog, an up-and-coming brewer from Dordrecht. Despite any associations that might spring to mind from the brewer’s name, the beer’s 5.1% ABV offers an assemblage of tantalizing elements. However, the initial impression leans towards the common critique that it does not quite stand up against legendary mainstream witbiers. Witbier is a style that often resists interpretations from smaller batches, and while the “Hoppy” label suggests something different, it primarily showcases grainy characteristics accompanied by a prominent kick of coriander and faint citrus that seems to reflect real peel more than hops. While the hops might have been present initially, they are subtle, and though the can is just under six months old, I hesitate to attribute its lack of vibrancy solely to age. True to its style, if not outstanding, this beer is well-suited for quenching thirst, particularly when chilled. The coriander can become slightly overpowering if the beer is allowed to warm, but it ultimately remains decent, albeit unremarkable, thus embodying a classic witbier experience.
The final offering in this captivating set is a collaborative creation with French brewery Les Intenables: the Grisette. While the beer isn’t entirely limpid, it’s undeniably the clearest of the bunch thus far; its white-gold hue is pleasing to the eye, although it presents a rather dissipating head. The aroma exudes characteristics of a clean farmhouse, conjuring up scents of hard pears and white plums—delightful aromas to savor. As anticipated, the carbonation is relatively low, particularly for a Belgian farmhouse-style ale; yet, this characteristic enriches the beer’s cask-like softness, a refreshing change from the typical overly fizzy styles. This allows the subtle fruit notes to shine through, as the pears take on a sweeter character reminiscent of stewed fruits seasoned with delightful hints of cinnamon and pepper. The resulting flavor profile is gently nuanced, with understated carbonation, making it an enjoyable drink. Though traditionally intended to quench the thirst of hardworking miners, this grisette is far too complex to rush through. At 4.8% ABV, it exceeds the expected strength for the style, yet it becomes increasingly clear that adherence to style conventions was not a priority in the creation of the Winter Affair Gossip project.
Overall, this tasting proved to be a delightful experience overall, despite the challenges presented by the witbier. My appreciation remains strong for detail-oriented breweries, especially those hailing from Germany and the artistry they bring to more contemporary styles. I find myself similarly intrigued and excited about the adventurous spirit exhibited by the Czechs and their esteemed collaborators throughout this delightful tasting journey.
What inspired the collaboration between Zichovec and international brewers for the Winter Affair Gossip series?
**Interview with Zichovec Brewer, Jan Novák**
*Editor:* Thank you for joining us today, Jan! It sounds like Zichovec’s Winter Affair Gossip series has been a great success. Can you tell us a bit about how this collaboration with various international brewers came about?
*Jan Novák:* Absolutely! Collaboration is a huge part of the craft beer movement. We wanted to showcase the diversity within beer culture while honoring traditional styles. By partnering with brewers from Sweden, England, the Netherlands, and France, we aimed to blend their unique perspectives and techniques with our Czech roots, creating something that resonates with both innovation and tradition.
*Editor:* That’s fascinating! I noticed the Quad-Decocted Pilsner has sparked some interest, especially among those who enjoy more traditional pilsners. How did the idea of a “quad-decocted” method come into play?
*Jan Novák:* Decoction is a classic Czech brewing technique that enriches the beer’s flavour and mouthfeel. The “quad” aspect signifies that we are taking it a step further—essentially adding complexity to the already rich profile of a pilsner. Although it may sound unconventional, we believe it retains the essence of a classic pils while introducing new, engaging flavors.
*Editor:* That’s brave! It seems that your approach has had mixed reactions, especially in terms of sweetness. What do you think draws beer enthusiasts to that unique flavour profile?
*Jan Novák:* Craft beer drinkers are increasingly looking for new experiences, and they appreciate when brewers experiment while still respecting original styles. The sweetness we incorporated offers a smooth contrast to the hop bitterness, reshaping expectations of what a pilsner can accomplish. It’s about pushing boundaries while still offering a familiar comfort.
*Editor:* Moving on to the DDH New Zealand Kölsch! Its deviation from traditional Kölsch seems daring, creating unexpected flavors. How has the reception been so far?
*Jan Novák:* We were excited to explore different flavour profiles with the Kölsch. The tropical notes from the New Zealand hops certainly surprise many who expect a classic Kölsch experience. We’ve received positive feedback, with many folks appreciating the refreshing twist. The aim was to create a beer that’s fun and delightful, even if it strays from tradition.
*Editor:* And how about the Hoppy Witbier? Do you think there’s room for innovation within that style, or is it best left as is?
*Jan Novák:* Witbier has a legacy, and while it does have traditional elements, there’s definitely room for innovation. We aimed for a unique perspective, but as you mentioned, it can be challenging to stand out against legendary brews of the style. The goal was to keep it refreshing and approachable, and we hope to refine it further in future batches.
*Editor:* Thank you for sharing these insights with us. As a final thought, what should beer enthusiasts keep an eye out for in Zichovec’s future releases?
*Jan Novák:* We’re always experimenting and looking to keep things fresh and exciting! Expect more bold collaborations, innovative styles, and a deeper exploration of flavors. Our consumers’ input matters greatly, and we love hearing their feedback, so stay tuned as we continue this journey!
*Editor:* Thank you, Jan! It’s been a pleasure discussing these exciting beers with you. We can’t wait to see what you have in store next!
