2023-11-04 15:00:00
The sun is barely rising in the Ashuapmushuan reserve, 45 minutes south of Chibougamau. We get out of the vehicle, then we go towards the weapons, stored in the trunk. It’s too late to turn back. Chief Jean-Philippe Leclerc hands me a small Soviet-made flip-action rifle into which only one cartridge can be inserted. If I miss my target, too bad for me, I have to reload. To relieve stress, I tell myself that it’s probably fairer for the animal.
Published yesterday at 11:00 a.m.
To be honest, I’ve never had a taste for hunting. And I had never used a gun. But I still got my learner’s permit, which allows you once in your life to go with an experienced hunter, without having your own certificate – which you obtain at the end of proper training. . But being able to taste the meat hunted the same day and prepared by a chef convinced me. After all, Jean-Philippe Leclerc’s recipes can be found in the brand new book Hooké – Adventures and wild cuisineby Fred Campbell.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The sweet balsam, which is ideally harvested at the end of summer, grows near bodies of water.
“At the time, for me, hunting was not barbaric, but I didn’t understand, it didn’t make sense,” admits the man who has already worked in the kitchens of La Tanière and L’Initiale, in Quebec. “But over the years working in restaurants, I have had the taste to take into account the traceability of the animal protein that I consume, to know where it comes from, in what conditions it is raised,” explains the chef.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
Small game hunting is the most accessible, because it is practiced along forest trails.
But for Jean-Philippe Leclerc, the interest in going to the forest is not limited only to the fact that he can harvest his own meat there. “I was born in Saint-Michel-de-Bellechasse, I grew up on the banks of the Saint-Laurent River, it was quite my playground, close to nature,” he recalls. My interest in the outdoors really started from there. And that’s also where I discovered picking plants thanks to a teacher who was doing replacement work, I must have been in third year. »
Myrique balsam, dune pepper, our hunter-gatherer guide took advantage of our walk to draw our attention to the fruits of the forest, an enriching activity in itself, even if we came back empty-handed.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The ruffed grouse is distinguished by its white flesh which is similar to that of chicken, compared to the grouse, which has redder flesh and a more pronounced gamey taste.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The result of our hunt: 9 grouse and 2 ruffed grouse. Each hunter can have 5 birds in his possession per day and cannot bring back more than 15 at the end of his stay.
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Often, in shows and sites devoted to hunting, we limit ourselves to stalking, hunting, killing. We take photos with our game, we’re happy and that’s it. But while you’re in the forest, you can look around, there are mushrooms, there are plants…
Jean-Philippe Leclerc
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The ruffed grouse is distinguished by a full tail set with a thin brown crown.
And small game hunting does just that, and that’s part of why it’s the most accessible type of hunting. “Small game still remains my favorite hunt following moose because it’s a hunt where you can walk around, you don’t have to worry regarding your smells, making noise, you can chat, explains the man who today earns his living as a cook in a daycare center. I go there with the children, I introduced them to it when they were very young. And when you walk, you get some fresh air, you are contemplative; you’ve seen how many times we’ve said how beautiful it is here! You go hiking and do your grocery shopping in the forest! »
Quest for self-sufficiency
PHOTO PROVIDED BY JEAN-PHILIPPE LECLERC
A stew of moose, root vegetables, beer and myrique balsam
Jean-Philippe Leclerc has been hunting for more than 12 years now, so much so that he rarely buys meat at the grocery store for his family. He is obviously aware that the supply method he has chosen is not for everyone and that it would not be viable on a large scale in any case. “I live with a reasonable meat consumption, so when I have a large game like a moose, I can last a year, a year and a half with half a carcass,” he tells us. Through it all, I also have grouse, white-tailed deer and a few fish. And it’s certain that I also eat a lot of vegetables. »
“Also, it really makes us think regarding the privilege we have to be able to eat this, much more than when we buy it at the grocery store or in a restaurant, you don’t think regarding your product,” continues the chef aptly. So I have even less desire to waste, you know. »
PHOTO PROVIDED BY JEAN-PHILIPPE LECLERC
Moose, chanterelles, catherinettes and raspberries
PHOTO PROVIDED BY JEAN-PHILIPPE LECLERC
Ruffed grouse tacos with red cabbage salad with maple syrup and myrique balsam
PHOTO PROVIDED BY JEAN-PHILIPPE LECLERC
Wild turkey breast and chimichurri
PHOTO PROVIDED BY JEAN-PHILIPPE LECLERC
Forest terrine: moose, death trumpets, chanterelles, black walnut, balsam fir, Quebec rye
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Jean-Philippe keeps almost everything from the animals he hunts. He candied the gizzards and hearts of the grouse and spruce grouse that we hunted and the carcasses were used as broth for a future recipe.
“You thank the animal on your plate, you highlight it,” he insists. This is why I think that hunters are fundamentally nature lovers, lovers of animal welfare, and we must try to demystify that. There are so many prejudices, we always talk regarding hunting for the wrong reasons, when despicable things like poaching happen. »
There are many people who think the opposite, but I believe that when it is done well, with respect for the animal, it is noble, hunting.
Jean-Philippe Leclerc, chief hunter-gatherer
And when we consume meat that we have hunted, there is always a story that comes with it, Jean-Philippe Leclerc tells us. I actually had a lot to talk regarding around the table following cooking the grouse brought back from my first hunt. My gut tells me it might not be the last.
Combine business with pleasure
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The new Horizon cabins, built in recent years in half a dozen wildlife reserves managed by SEPAQ, can be rented as part of small game hunting packages.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
The Horizon chalets are characterized by large windows, in addition to offering all the necessary amenities.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
There are two or three bedrooms per unit.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
Four Horizon cabins are available for rental at the Ashuapmushuan wildlife reserve, on the shores of Lake Nicabau. They all benefit from a closed and heated entrance hall, useful for storing equipment and drying clothes.
PHOTO EDOUARD PLANTE-FRÉCHETTE, LA PRESS
It is advisable to book up to a year in advance of the desired time to secure your place in a Horizon chalet, especially during peak periods.
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Located northwest of Lake Saint-Jean, on either side of Route 167, the Ashuapmushuan wildlife reserve extends over nearly 4,500 km2. Its vast territory and less hunting pressure, especially in the north of the reserve, make it the ideal place for hunting ruffed grouse, sharp-tailed grouse and American grouse. In addition to hunting, it is possible to fish there, especially for walleye and pike. You can also go canoeing, rafting and camping.
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