The Civil Guard has already warned twice of the danger of climbing Aneto through the glacier. Do you advise giving up the ascension?
The alert arose from a meeting between the Greim de Benasque, Montaña Segura, the Posets-Maladeta Park, the guides and the guard of the Renclusa refuge. There were even comments regarding the closure of access to the Portillón, but that seemed very drastic to us. What we do try is to make people aware that instead of going through the north face, through the glacier, they go through alternative routes, through the south face, through the Ibón del Salterillo, which allows us to save it.
Is this a safer route?
It is what we guides do from June and July.
And why are there still mountaineers determined to go up the glacier knowing that when the snow disappears, the ice outcrops?
Because it is the best known route. The truth is that some do not even know where they are going. They don’t have a map or anything and they follow the others. “Is Aneto around there?” they ask. They care regarding climbing to the top, the route is indifferent to them.
Despite the alert there are still rescues.
There are people who do not receive the information and others who do not pay attention. Some are rescued because he has suffered an accident, but others because they do not carry material. As the glacier is, even if you know, you have to control it. But if you also don’t know, it’s extremely dangerous. The problem is that a lot of people without experience have been coming for a few years. They have read that you climb Aneto, which is the highest in the Pyrenees, and wow!
And what can happen to them?
Well, let them be killed by a slip. Or suffer burns from friction and blows once morest stones. It’s like getting into a giant ice slide and sliding down to a rocky area.
Does the information not arrive?
On July 10 we began the Aneto Seguro talks, where we emphasized the alternative routes.
And do you pay attention to the recommendations of the guides?
Sometimes they look at me like I’m crazy. The same thing is that he has lost respect for the mountain. Some look safe because they do mountain races and climb in 5 hours when it costs a guide 10.
Have any restrictions been raised at any time?
It has been commented, but in the mountains, what restrictions are you going to put? It’s hard. There was talk of installing a fixed rope or chain on the Mohammed Bridge because it would be easier to cross, but if we make it easier, even more people with lower levels will climb. The problem is that the mountain is prepared for the people, instead of preparing the people to go to the mountain. We try to make the tours more comfortable. With the current influx, there are more inexperienced, unprepared, without material. We ask someone who wants to go to Aneto: “Have you ever used crampons and pilot?” And they answer: “No, but if they are rented, I rent them and go.”
In the Alps there are restrictions.
The most common route of the Montblanc crosses a channel where stones fall like pianos. There is a passage with a cable that allows you to run through and if you are lucky, it does not touch you. They call it the bowling alley because of dodging the stones. Last year they closed that route for safety. In addition, in a hill, guides or gendarmes control those who access to see if they have reserved accommodation and carry the material.
Could we copy it?
It is complex to close a route. And besides, what are you going to put, to the Civil Guard so that they don’t pass? There are alternative routes. Who are we to tell people they can’t go that way?
Are you frivolous with a route that is very demanding?
You see someone on social media that goes up and down in six hours.
What is the most unusual thing you have seen in your 30 years of experience as a guide in the Benasque Valley?
Many people in shorts and sneakers and without material. On Tuesday, some friends saw a father and his son, regarding 12 years old, on the glacier without crampons or ice axes, with sticks. It is an education problem, and even more so now with the rise of mountain activities. That is why we want to influence information and dissemination.
