2023-06-30 07:07:49
Watch dials are a canvas for which artisans, such as enamels and gem-setters, can unleash their creativity and showcase their talents. From the detailed work to the ornate gold embellishments, these are the small surface areas that make the focal point of any timepiece. Here are some of the highlights of the Watch Show in Geneva, Watches and Wonders 2023 Watches with detailed technical dials..
The dial is often where the personality and allure of a watch stems from. Although small in size, they usually define the overall aesthetics of the finished clock through shape, color, decoration, and ornamentation. The dial is also where brands can imprint their genetic design on the watch.
Hermès Arceau Petite Lune 1
The dial of the Arceau Petite Lune watch is an impressive work created by the talented gem-makers in the Hermès workshops. The enamel space depicts a stellar universe of planets, moons, and stars created from solid stones. The dark aventurine blue background produces a sculpture resting on a mother-of-pearl background. To achieve the natural shimmer, aventurine must be refined until it becomes transparent, allowing the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl to shine through. This meticulous process requires the craftsman to monitor and inspect the stone throughout the refining process. The planets are made of aragonite, the nearly eclipsed moon is made of freshwater mother-of-pearl, and the constellations of stars in the night sky are made of opals and diamonds. There are 70 natural diamonds embedded in the white gold case, to give the perfect cyan finish.
2 Hermès Slim d’Hermès Cheval de Légende
Revamped in 2015, the Slim d’Hermès watch by Hermès centers around the essentials: simplicity consisting of precision and balance. The smooth lines of the round case with lugs frame the white gold enamelled dial set with a galloping horse motif. Through a large number of gold or enamel beads, the new Slim d’Hermès Cheval de Légende reveals its legendary horse, born from the touch of enamel set with 52 baguette-cut diamonds. This equestrian symbol is inspired by the scarf of the same name, created by artist Benoît-Pierre Emery in 2010, which features a horse on a white background, executed with gold dots on silk. The studded horse takes on a new creative dimension when placed on the disc. To create the first model, the artisan uses a laser to carve tiny recesses into the enamelled gold surface, polishing it by hand. One by one, the jeweler places 1,678 rose gold beads into the recesses, before firing them in a kiln to set them in the enamel. This is a particularly delicate stage, as even a few seconds more or less can affect the success of the operation.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Colour
The Reverso watch is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most iconic Swiss watch design. It was first created in 1931 as a watch worn by polo players on the field. It was an almost instant hit among the trendy group; Over time, this design has become recognized as a model of fine timepieces among fans and collectors. This year in Watches and Wonders, the brand released a model inspired by the Art Deco era. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious Color is presented in blue in a geometric mosaic-style enamel case. The mother-of-pearl dial is made by Métiers Rares craftsmen inside a detailed rose gold case set with blue and black enamel. The geometric pattern is executed through a miniature grand-feu dial with diamond accents.
Creating this little design is a time consuming technical feat. The case must first be sealed with discs or transparent enamel, then covered with layers of opaque white enamel, which is then dried and fired between each layer to create an original texture upon which designers create the geometric patterns. After this stage, the design is hand-painted onto the surface, and colored enamel is applied using a fine-tipped brush. Reverso One Precious Colors requires up to 15 firings and multiple stages of drying at 200 degrees. The final step, known as the ‘Geneva technique’, is where the design is coated and preserved in a layer of clear fondant.
Chopard Imperial Watch
The Impériale collection by Chopard is joined by a new, limited, numbered edition of 25 timepieces in ethical 18-carat rose gold. This watch is adorned with the enchanting beauty of the lotus, as the symbolic shape of the group’s signature flower stands out once morest the backdrop of a magnificent sky that changes with the passing of the hours, thanks to a rotating mechanism that distinguishes between the times of night and day. The dial is adorned with sapphire and diamond inlays, with engravings of gold for lotus petals, to radiate a halo of utmost delicacy and sophistication. The lotus flower is surrounded by a symbolic halo in both Egypt and India, and has been associated with the sun since the dawn of time. According to ancient Egyptian mythology, the sun rises from the corolla of the lotus each morning, before returning to its petals at nightfall. Chopard casts its gaze on nature as inspiration for this limited edition of the Impériale collection, comprising only 25 watches. Caroline Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, said: “The lotus flower opens and closes with the sunrise and sunset. It was natural for us to add to this watch a day/night indicator, which is a complex technical mechanism characterized by an attractive and romantic nature at the same time.” The delicate mother-of-pearl floating dial of this model of the Impériale watch is painted in subtle shades of sky blue set with seven small golden stars. As for the snow setting of diamonds and sapphires in six different shades of blue, it wonderfully expresses the transition of the scene between night and day. This constant movement of the dial is thanks to the LUC 96.30-L calibre, which was entirely developed in-house by Chopard.
Cartier Métiers d’Art Elongated Bathtub
All regarding geometry and color contrast, Cartier’s Métiers d’Art Baignoire Allongée watch features an abstract design in black, white, silver and gold. Cartier always looks to evolve and enhance its core aesthetics, which Allongée achieves by exaggerating the distinctive characteristics of the Baignoire port. By creating a larger, more curved shape, the design constraints become greater, making it more difficult to innovate on such a difficult surface.
This watch is particularly impressive, as its case is made of yellow and white gold. Bringing them together is a technical challenge that Cartier watchmakers have overcome by using a precision welding tool. The welds have been hidden with a fine line of paint. Once assembled, he divides the entire dial into sections of different sizes. Some sections are covered in black lacquer, while others are covered in polished gold, or with a hand-made sunburst decoration.
No matter which piece you choose, you can be sure that it has all been meticulously designed and crafted, requiring many hours of expert labor to create. Black paint, in particular, poses a great challenge, as creating a smooth layer on a curved surface seems to defy the laws of nature. From machining to enamel, plating to jewelry making, nine different areas of expertise are involved in the making of each piece. In all, it took more than 24 months to create this watch.
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Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Fairy
The latest creations of Van Cleef & Arpels draw us into a fantasy world inspired by the “poetry of time” through various complex artistic techniques. The brand has reimagined the fairy figure in new colors through enameling and micropainting. With a self-winding mechanism, this special timepiece features jumping hours and retrograde minutes brought to life by an engraved mother-of-pearl case coated in four colours, ranging from pearly white to deep plum. It took the Maison’s craftsmen more than ten attempts to achieve the final smooth gradation. The iconic fairy appears prominently on the dial, sitting on a cloud of white mother-of-pearl, wearing a dress made of diamonds, pink sapphires and miniature gold plates. Its face is made of a marquise-cut diamond. Its wings are made in plique-à-jour enamel technique using a special shade of pink made in-house to match harmoniously with the gradient of the enamel. Its magic wand indicates the minutes while a sunset appears in the lower part of the dial.
These five watches are feats of technical mastery and craftsmanship of the highest standard. Each dial is visually intriguing, and technically sophisticated, to a grandiose effect.
36Rolex Puzzle Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
The all-new Rolex Puzzle Oyster Perpetual is one of the most exciting designs to watch, or to collect, at this year’s Watch & Wonder Show. This piece reflects joy and life, and the purpose of its design is to bring happiness and positivity to the wearer. Its dial brings the best of social media and technology to your wrist, with an exciting surprise on every watch. In the arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock is a calendar with seven inspiring keywords in place of the days of the week: ‘happiness’, ‘eternity’, ‘gratitude’, ‘peace’, ‘faith’, ‘love’ and ‘hope’. Moving to 3 o’clock, 31 emoji rotate, replacing the classic date window.
Hublot Big Bang Unico High Jewelry Rainbow
When the art of jewellery meets the art of watchmaking, poetry is never far away. Like a summer sky following the storm has calmed, Hublot’s Big Bang Unico High Jewelry Rainbow embodies a rainbow of brightly colored gemstones once morest an 18-carat rose gold background. And when vermilion blends with fuchsia to become violet, with flashes of blue, then turquoise, green is shaded by chlorophyll to become soft, holding a vibrant yellow, and blooming with warm orange. In an invisible closed bezel, the jeweler, using 290 precious and brilliant gemstones, paints a bold, lively and joyful spectrum around the dial, as the Maison’s iconic movement is revealed. Coordination and mastery of exceptional skills, selection, cutting, sorting and setting, all encompass the radical plans of Hublot’s precision mechanical movement.
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