The Association for Consumer Information (VKI) tested 162 vegan cheese alternatives. 128 products – and therefore the majority – received an “average” rating. 28 products were classified as “good”, six were “less satisfactory”.
The 162 vegan “cheese” – hard cheese, feta, soft cheese, mozzarella, cream cheese and quark – were checked for their nutritional values (Nutri-Score) and the degree of industrial processing (NOVA). In addition, the replacement products were compared with the respective product groups from the cheese segment, for example Emmentaler flavor slices with traditional Emmentaler or vegan Babybel with Mini Babybel made from cow’s milk.
“Besser Nutri-Score”
“Conventional cheese tended to have a better Nutri score because of its protein content,” reported the VKI: “54 percent of vegan cheese alternatives ended up in the worst category ‘E’, while for dairy products it was only eight percent.”
Cheese substitute products are generally highly processed. The range of conventional products is wider because fewer industrial processing steps are often necessary. In the case of vegan cheese, for example, the consistency is created by thickeners or starch; flavors are usually necessary for the taste. According to consumer advocates, only vegan soft and cream cheeses contain fewer additives.
Highly processed food
The majority (82 percent) of the cheese substitute products examined were therefore classified as highly processed foods with NOVA 4. “The remaining 18 percent can be assigned to NOVA 3 and is still okay for regular consumption,” said VKI nutritionist Birgit Beck. “In principle, it is still healthier to eat unprocessed foods.”
Coconut oil or shea butter are the main ingredients in around three quarters of the products tested. Palm oil is hardly contained anymore, but coconut oil is viewed with similar criticism. Because growing coconut palms produces less yield per area – more water, pesticides and fertilizers are required.
The high proportion of saturated fatty acids in coconut oil can increase bad LDL cholesterol levels. “If you want to avoid coconut fat, you can use vegan soft cheese,” advised Beck. Its base is usually cashew nuts, and it’s actually quite easy to make yourself.
