Toshikoshi soba, if you leave it, will you have a hard time with money in the new year? – Weather news

2022/12/31 11:17 Weather News

Speaking of New Year’s Eve, many people eat “Toshikoshi soba”. In Japan, it is a presence that can be said to be a “feature poetry” regardless of region.

Ms. Tomoko Kitano of Saijiki x Food Culture Research Institute discusses why Japanese people eat soba on New Year’s Eve, what kind of history lies hidden in toshikoshi soba, and whether there are regional differences in ingredients and how to eat it. I visited

The custom of New Year’s Eve soba that began in the Edo period

When did the New Year’s Eve soba tradition start?

“There are several theories, but it is generally believed to date from the early to mid-Edo period. During the Genroku era (1688-1703), when merchants flourished, the large shops of Edo Nihonbashi There is a haiku of “One Hundred People’s Soba Eating Sounds and New Year’s Eve,” which is regarding Echigoya Gofukuten (now Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi Main Store).

In 1750, haiku poet Ransetsu Hattori wrote a haiku saying, “Using soba, the beard is white, and the end of the year.” It seems that the custom of eating soba on New Year’s Eve began around that time.

Long, thin soba noodles extend your lifespan!?

There are many theories regarding why people eat toshikoshi soba.

“As for the traits of buckwheat, thin and long-growing buckwheat is a lucky charm that prolongs life and prolongs family fortune. There is a theory that one year’s hardships and debts should be cut off within the year and not carried over to the next year, because it is easier to cut than other noodles, and because it is easier to cut than other noodles.

From the efficacy of soba, it is also said to remove the dregs of the internal organs and internal organs and expect health effects. In 1697, during the Edo period, “Honshoku Kagami” (The Book of Breakfast) wrote, “Soba soba calms the mind, relaxes the intestines, and effectively kneads the stagnation of the intestines and stomach.” It is written. By eating toshikoshi soba, you want to raise your body’s metabolism and cleanse your body to welcome the new year.

There is also a theory that it originated from a craftsman who was engaged in gold and silver work. Craftsmen used kneaded buckwheat flour to collect gold powder, so soba was considered a lucky charm to “collect gold.” Therefore, it is said that buckwheat was considered to be an auspicious food for “prolonging (accumulating) money”.

In addition, during the Kamakura period, Hakata merchant Shakokumei served buckwheat rice cakes to people who were unable to survive the end of the year due to poverty at Jotenji Temple under the name of “Yonaoshi soba”. There is also a theory that the custom of eating soba on New Year’s Eve was born because luck turned to New Year’s Eve.

In the book “Soba Dictionary ” (published in 1996), in the item of “New Year’s soba”, “As a cleansing food, on New Year’s Day, the 2nd, the 15th, and the last day of the new year, it is a region where soba is made. However, it remains in Koshinetsu and parts of Tohoku.” In the commentary, it is considered that ‘soba is a pure food, and it is natural that it is used for celebratory ceremonies.'” (Mr. Kitano)

What is the meaning behind soba in each region?

Are there any regional characteristics in toshikoshi soba?

“Nationwide, tempura soba topped with large shrimp tempura is probably the most popular dish. Shrimp is a symbol of longevity, and the red color of boiled shrimp is considered auspicious food. because it is
　
In northern Kanto, there seems to be a region where people eat “Kenchin soba” made with kenchin soup on New Year’s Eve. It is said that kenchin soup is a good luck food that is widely eaten in the Kanto region.

Kyoto and Osaka seem to have a lot of herring soba. Hot soba topped with sweet and salty soft boiled herring. The herring is written in kanji characters for “two parents”, and like the egg herring roe (Kazunoko), “two parents will give birth to many children”, with the wish of “offspring prosperity”. At my parents’ house in Osaka, New Year’s Eve soba is herring soba. Boiled herring, green onions, and “joy” are topped with oboro kelp.

In addition, “local soba” such as wanko soba in Iwate prefecture, hegi soba in Niigata prefecture, Echizen oroshi soba in Fukui prefecture, and wariko soba in Izumo (eastern part of Shimane prefecture) are often eaten as New Year’s soba. . In any region, the green onion that accompanies the condiment has the meaning of “appreciating (for the work of the year).”

In Kagawa Prefecture, the land of Sanuki udon, there are many families who eat udon even on New Year’s Eve.” (Mr. Kitano)

If you leave food behind, you will have a hard time in the new year!?

What time of year do you eat toshikoshi soba on New Year’s Eve?

“Since long ago, soba has been a tradition of the last meal of the year, and since it is a food that contains the meaning of making a wish at the end of the year, it was supposed to be eaten before the New Year. There are various ways to eat, such as eating while listening to the bells on New Year’s Eve.

In my case, since I was a child, I have a habit of eating dinner (sake and appetizers as an adult) and eating from the latter half to the end of the NHK Kouhaku Uta Gassen.

Also, there is a widely-held legend that “If you eat toshikoshi soba leftovers, you will have a hard time with money in the new year.”

Toshikoshi soba is a customary way to eat on New Year’s Eve, but it seems to have been an auspicious food since ancient times. How regarding eating toshikoshi soba while looking back on the past year and praying for a happy new year?

Reference materials, etc.

“Food Origin Encyclopedia” (edited by Satoshi Okada/Tokyodo Publishing), “Soba Dictionary ” (Miro Uehara/Tokyodo Publishing), “Japanese Taste Encyclopedia” (edited by Satoshi Okada/Tokyodo Publishing), “Japan” “Events” and “Food” (Naoki Shintani/Seishun Shuppansha), “Hiroko Nozaki’s Lucky Food” (Hiroko Nozaki/Chunichi Eigasha), “Japanese Traditions You Should Know as Common Sense” (Akira Tanno/PHP Library)