The rhubarb is ripe! Nine tips for a fruit that is actually a vegetable

We owe the name “rhubarb” (rheum barbarum) to the Romans, because the knotweed plant, which comes from China, was first cultivated in Russia – for the Romans it was therefore the “root of the barbarians”.

The first rhubarb vines only existed here 150 years ago. Since then they have become an integral part of our gardens. However, hardly anyone knows one thing: botanically speaking, rhubarb is an overwintering rhizome that sprouts anew every year, and is therefore “officially” a vegetable and not a fruit. To ensure there is a rich harvest every year, here are the nine most important facts:

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1. The site: A humus-rich, rather fresh (slightly moist) soil with a good supply of nutrients is a must. The sunnier, the more moisture the plant that originally grew in the floodplain needs.
2. The planting time: Spring is the best time for planting. Harvesting may only take place next year, otherwise it would weaken the plant too much.
3. The casting: Regular, intensive watering is important for this plant. Ideally once a week, rainwater – later ideally with nettle manure.
4. Fertilize correctly: Compost, fertilize organically with horn shavings, sheep’s wool pellets or a complete organic fertilizer.
5. The harvest: In the second year from early spring (possibly with a clay pot placed over it) until around St. John’s Day on June 24th. After five to ten years (depending on growth) the hive should be dug up and divided. The best time for this – as unusual as it sounds – is around the summer solstice.
6. Myth: poisonous: The fact that rhubarb is “poisonous” after St. John’s Day is no longer considered correct today. The oxalic acid is mainly in the leaves, not in the stems. The harvest stop occurs to regenerate the plants.
7. Myth: Bloom: The start of the flowering period has many factors. The plants often react to high temperatures (like this year), but usually also to a lack of nutrients (flowering is intended to ensure survival) or over-aging.
8. Myth: Oxalic acid: This acid is considered a calcium robber, but studies in Switzerland have shown that the risk is insignificant with normal consumption of stems harvested especially in spring.
9. Leaves against fungi and pests: Since the largest proportion of oxalic acid is in the leaves, they can be used to combat pests and fungal diseases. Cut the leaves (the older the better) into small pieces (1/2 kg). Pour three liters of boiling hot water over it and let it steep for a day. Strain and spray undiluted on louse colonies. Perfect against bean lice.

This is what to do in the garden now:

Growth is starting again. Also that of weeds and weeds. Therefore, clean the beds as quickly as possible, because the smaller the plants are, the easier they are to remove. Then immediately mulch the soil thickly, advises Karl Ploberger.

The first lawn cuttings are now used as mulching material. If there are a lot of daisies in it, put it on the compost and only use the second cut. Or you can use garden fiber for covering, just like elephant grass or bark humus. Only apply bark mulch to trees.

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When it comes to tomato plants, it’s better to wait for the ice saints!
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Wait a few more days in the vegetable garden with cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini or tomatoes. They don’t like the cold at all. The Ice Saints are mid-May!

Don’t tidy up the garden too much – create a wild corner for the hedgehog! Hang up an earwig house – the aphids are quite active. If the infestation is very large, spray with soft soapy water.