2023-08-09 15:16:45
By Julien Da Sois
Posted 5 hours ago, Updated 37 minutes ago
The Bouillon Chartier room on the Grands Boulevards in Paris is listed in the directory of historical monuments. Max Ledieu
INVESTIGATION – Born in the 19th century, these typically Parisian establishments are making a remarkable comeback. To offer very affordable prices in authentic but sumptuous places, their organization is thought out to the millimeter. And their jealously guarded secrets.
As soon as you enter the front door, the old-fashioned charm of the place is striking. First there is the decor: a huge room with 300 seats in the Art Deco style, listed as a historic monument, with its dozens of tables covered with paper tablecloths, its wooden bistro chairs, its walls lined with mirrors and its gigantic height under ceiling. And then there is the atmosphere: this incessant ballet of waiters, in black vests and white aprons, zigzagging between the tables, in a constant hubbub. On the menu, only the basics of traditional French cuisine: beef bourguignon, eggs with mayonnaise, beef tongue, rum baba… Welcome to Bouillon Chartier on the Grands Boulevards, the oldest establishment of this type in the capital. But he may always present himself as “the unique and authentic Parisian broth» – a message hammered onto the napkins («He is from Bouillon only Chartier“) – he was emulated. In Paris as elsewhere in France (Lyon, Lille, Metz, Grenoble, Orléans, Dijon, Tours, Deauville, etc.), where these places, originally purely Parisian, have recently been exported, no doubt inspired by the success of their colleagues. “Today, there are around a hundred establishments in the territory claiming to be broths, including 25 in Paris», enumerates François Blouin, president and founder of the research firm Food Service Vision.
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