A bit like the Franco-Italian tale of the same name, the Chat Botté vineyard has taken advantage of its know-how to push the definition of its wines even further instead of resting on its laurels.
Created in 2004 by Isabelle Ricard and Normand Guénette, the vineyard located in Hemmingford, in Montérégie, was once well known to Quebec connoisseurs for its ice wines. Without going so far as to say that the range of still wines was rather ordinary, let’s say that there was potential to be developed. However, like the youngest son of the old miller who inherited the cat – and despite the numerous prizes won for several of their cuvées – the couple chose to go further and thus really pass themselves off as the famous Marquis de Carabas . The vineyard therefore switched to organic mode (will be certified from the 2023 vintage) and called on Paul Liboi, a biodynamic specialist. We have also reviewed and corrected the labels in addition to introducing new cuvées*. Here are three tasted this week that are doing very well.
Drink less. Drink better.
Puss in Boots, White 2021, IGP Quebec
20,40 $ – Code SAQ 12442498 – 12 % – 4 g/L
A blend dominated by Louise Swenson, to which are added Swenson Blanc, Frontenanc Gris and Aldalmiina offering a nose of ginger, grass and pear. In the mouth, the lively acidity allows an excellent balance with the nourished matter. In other words, don’t be fooled by the grams of residual sugar: the wine is perfectly dry. Above all, it is refreshing, tonic and fairly long-lasting, while retaining a distinctly Nordic character. Cultivated organically and without chemical inputs.
★★1⁄2 $$
Puss in Boots, Yellow-Orange 2021, IGP Quebec
29,75 $ – Code SAQ 15085094 – 13 % – 2,4 g/L
Obviously, with the fashion for orange wine, the vineyard might hardly miss its chance. This is a pellicular maceration of white Frontenac over a dozen days. A seductive and rather singular nose first evoking papaya and candied pineapple, followed by notes of smoke, hay and hazelnut (fine oxidation) which jazz up the whole. On the palate, liveliness remains the main vector to which generous fruitiness and delicate tannins cling, thus creating a feeling of noble bitterness on the finish. For fans of the genre. There are very few left in the branch.
★★1⁄2 $$$
Puss in Boots, First Steps 2021, IGP Quebec
24,75 $ – Code SAQ 15085060 – 13,8 % – 2,2 g/L
It’s the best of the three. And by far ! A semi-carbonic vinification of whole bunches. It gives an explosive nose of strawberry, plum, violet and a touch of pepper. A rich fruitiness on the palate articulated around an energetic acidity and silky tannins. It’s fresh, easy to drink and sapid. Blind tasting, you might go wrong with an excellent Beaujolais cru. Marquette never ceases to amaze me and makes me think that it is the red grape variety that probably has the brightest future in Quebec. Serve chilled with braised meat. Cheer !
★★★1⁄2 $$1⁄2
* Note that despite the metal caps that seal the bottles, these are all still wines.
Legend
★ Correct
★★ Bon
★★★ Very good
★★★★ Excellent
★★★★★ Outstanding
More stars than dollars: well worth the price.
As many stars as dollars: worth its price.
Fewer stars than dollars: the wine is expensive.
