2023-05-11 21:08:49
The Pitti Uomo 104 is full of brands and buyers with a strong international presence and a sharp selection of emerging labels alongside the big brands of the menswear. With a significant increase in participation and a men’s fashion market in full recovery, the managers of Pitti Immagine, the organizer of the benchmark men’s show, which will be held in Florence from June 13 to 16, are showing great optimism, by unveiling this Thursday, in Milan, the program of their next summer session, particularly rich in innovative projects and special events.
Nearly 825 exhibitors are registered for the next Pitti Uomo, including 41% from abroad, compared to 682 in June 2022 and 790 last January. A good progression therefore, even if the show is still far from its level of attendance and membership pre-pandemic when it flirted with more than 1,200 participants. It doesn’t matter, as boss Raffaello Napoleone reminds us: “We had many more requests for participation than in January, when the winter season is traditionally stronger for men’s fashion. We are coming out of four complicated years, and there has high expectations for this edition.”.
“During these four years, all of our businesses have evolved significantly, showing great resilience. At the same time, the men’s fashion market is performing better than that of women’s fashion. All these elements invite us to be super optimistic, to as sales are progressing. In the United States, the market continued to grow despite the turbulence, Europe is outperforming thanks to the strong comeback of tourists, which bodes well for Asia. This 104th edition will be a very great Pitti”, asserts the new president of Pitti Immagine, Antonio De Matteis.
On the buyer side, many memberships have already been collected. “From all the main brands, in Europe, in particular in Germany, France and the United Kingdom, in Asia with China, Japan and Korea, as well as in the United States”, underline the organizers. The event benefits in particular from the support of the Italian agency ICE in charge of the internationalization of Made in Italy companies, which finances the trip this year of 350 buyers and 550 journalists. “The export of Italian fashion, which represents the third manufacturing sector in the country, amounted to 80 billion euros in 2022, of which just over 10% is achieved by men’s clothing. positive announcement also for 2023 with a 12.7% increase in exports of textile products over the first two months of the year”, explains the president of the ICE, Matteo Zoppas.
Riding on these promising figures and a real renewed enthusiasm, the organizers of Pitti Uomo have chosen the theme of the game as the common thread this year. games”, summarizes the general manager Agostino Poletto by illustrating the rich program of this session dedicated to the spring-summer 2024 collections.
Starting with special guests, such as Fendi, who will parade on June 15 in his new factory in Bagno a Ripoli, and the Californian designer Eli Russell Linnetz, who beyond the show of his label ERL, will transform the central square of the Fortezza da Basso -the fortress that hosts the Pitti Uomo- as a film set with the remains of a giant Statue of Liberty stranded in the heart of the living room, like in the mythical last shot of the film Planet of the Apes. To these already announced guests is added Chu Suwannapha, invited as “designer project”. This Thai designer, who graduated from the Parisian school Esmod, settled in South Africa, where he founded the Chulaap brand in 2015, which skilfully mixes colors and prints, as well as all kinds of traditional patterns and fabrics (batik , origami, lace, African prints, etc). He will present his work through a special installation in the Sala delle Nazioni.
These headliners reflect the very international spirit of this 104 edition with a series of projects targeting creativity from different geographical horizons. On the program, in particular, the 7th edition of Scandinavian Manifesto launched in 2018 with the Copenhagen show Revolver, which selected ten brands, including Rue de Tokyo and Norse Projects, whose creative director will launch his brand new label Past on this occasion. Tense Studio. Also note the presence, for the first time at Pitti, of the Danish house Rains, which parades in Paris.
Launched last January, the Japanese initiative J Quality Factory Brand Project also returns, bringing together five Japanese factories certified by the J Quality label. In addition, the Florentine show presents for the first time “Detroitissimi” with six brands from Detroit and Michigan celebrating the creativity of this important American manufacturing district. They are B.May Bags, Boswell, Detroit Denim, Deviate, K.Walker Collective and Carhartt, which will present a collaboration with the College for Creative Studies (Ccs). Finally, China will be highlighted through a project carried out with the spinner Consinee with research brands, including Ponder.er and Nullus.
Without forgetting “S Style”, the space dedicated to very young brands born with an eco-responsible approach. For its 7th edition, this section among the most visited of the show has selected ten designers, including the French Steven Passaro and Jeanne Friot and the Italians Cavia and Dalpaos, but also the Indian Dhruv Kapoor, the Danish labels Isnurh, Ukrainian Ksenia Schnaider, Ivorian Olooh Concept, English Permu and Korean Young n Sang. This season, these young designers are benefiting from the support of Kering and its Material Innovation Lab (MIL), which specializes in research into sustainable materials.
Many events also accompany this Pitti Uomo 104. First of all within the fortress with, among others, the 50th anniversary of Arena, the shoemaker Doucal’s, but also the Fila F Box logo, the 15th anniversary of the Giuseppe Zanotti’s men’s collection, the return of the German brand Drykorn, and above all the very first participation of the Florentine tailor Liverano & Liverano. Several highlights are also planned outside the show grounds, with a major fashion show organized by the LuisaViaRoma brand, the festivities organized by Rinascente on the occasion of the renovation of its Florentine store with an exclusive dinner and mega party, the homage of Milanese dressmaker Luisa Beccaria to Florence with a show in the garden of a palace which until now has been kept closed. And finally, the exhibition of the archives of Gianfranco Ferré promoted by the Istituto Marangoni and the concept store WP.
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