2023-06-26 12:43:08
This article was published in the July 2023 issue of Vogue Spain.
In the light of great revelations and scientific advances, the millennial practice of aromatherapy is updated, reinforcing a link between fragrances and emotions that illuminates the flourishing market of olfactory wellnessdriven, in turn, by digital aroma technology, the artificial intelligence and sustainability. With the help of The Perfume Academywhich dedicates part of its efforts to disseminate regarding the advances and innovations of the sector, and the testimonials of those who are leading this change in the paradigm, we outline the nearest future of perfumery.
Wellness perfumes
According to Beautystreamsa reference information platform for the global beauty industry, 75% of the emotions generated daily are due to smell, and by exposing ourselves to a pleasant aroma, our mood improves by 40%. Hence, Michael Nolte, SVP Creative Director of the group, observes an emerging market for wellness fragrances: “Technological advances foster new opportunities for the design of functional perfumes, capable of influencing the psyche, satisfying emotional needs, enhancing energy and performance, promote health and mood…”, says the expert.
In fact, the fragrance-producing company Iberchem already employs techniques for calculate the impact of aromas in emotions: “On the one hand, we measure the reactions through associations of images and colors or questionnaires. And on the other, we monitor unconscious reactions to perfumes: changes in brain waves, skin conductivity, small changes in facial expressions and heart rate,” says Michael White, director of fragrance technologies at this Murcian company. . Thus, Iberchem has scientifically demonstrated that perfumes with lavender, rose or citrus elements have a positive influence on emotions, or that some essences are capable of improve cognitive functionsas well as concentration and memory.
Artificial intelligence and fragrances
For decode which smells trigger certain emotionsPuig uses technology FER (Facial Emotion Recognition), whose tools, in the near future, “will accompany us on personalized trips of olfactory exploration to enjoy new records”, predicts Camila Tomas, Global Innovation & New Technologies VP of the Catalan group.
To detect smells, Puig uses electronic noses and artificial intelligence (automated chromatographs that translate odors into olfactory visualizations in two minutes – a process that would have taken regarding ten days just three years ago). “The visualization of odors with algorithms that decode their notes is one of the great advances in the sector. WikiPerfum is a clear example, a platform that allows anyone to consult, compare and choose fragrances from a library with more than 22,000 references”, says Tomas. In addition, Puig owns AirParfum to test perfumes without saturating the nose. As? Dispensing the olfactory molecule of the perfume and retaining the alcohol. According to reports from Verified Market Researchthe size of the technology market aroma digital It was valued at $986.2 million in 2021 and is projected to reach $2,235.7 million by 2030.
The new sustainability
According to Thomas, in the next ten years, the bottles will be refillable by law, and traceability will be essential, although the ingredients are harvested and managed less and less in the old way. Givaudan already applies the technology Scent Trek to identify each molecule of true aromas in natural environments (without harming them), while Firmenich obtains essential oils without solvents foreign to natural organic matter. And then there are the lab grown ingredients, which do not depend on location, weather or transportation. “Paradoxically, synthetic perfumery preserves nature, promotes sustainable agriculture and gives the planet time to regenerate”, they defend from Beautystreams.
As for the upcyclingperfumery was always a pioneer in using raw materials recovered from waste from other industries, but now “chemical by-products of industrial reactions” are also used, highlights Ina Mexia, Perfumery & Beauty Commercial Director DSM Firmenich Spain.
For the rest, the growing customer interest in the composition crystallizes in another category in vogue: alcohol-free fragrances, which do not emit volatile organic compounds (VOCs), so harmful to the ozone layer and health. Any other news? The custom fragrancesa group that will deserve a separate chapter later.
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