the first gender-free sartorial line is born

2023-07-25 08:29:21

On the occasion of the 2023 FIFA Women’s World Cup in Australia, starting on July 30, Nike has partnered with the stylist Martine Rosefor the launch of a line that challenges traditional gender dress norms. A collection of semi-formal clothes and accessories, which takes its inspiration from football uniforms.

The originality of the collaboration consists in having united fashion and sportssuperimposing sartorial suits on sports suits, generally considered to be the antipodes.

A line proposed for soccer athletes, to celebrate the sporting event and underline that elegance has no gender, on the field as well as off. In particular, the proposed outfits aim to document the moment of travel and arrival in the field, with an elite tailoring cut.

The pieces of the capsule collection

Martine Rose, usually a menswear designer, revised for the occasion the classic British tailoring codes. Unique pieces that transform football looks into casual outfits, without any reference to gender.

As specified by the English menswear designer, her interest has never been exclusively linked to fashion, but to how people interact with clothes, to the emotional factor hidden behind what you wear.

The collection consists of various items, from jackets to trousers, complete with shirts, trench coats, and accessories, such as sunglasses, and a new version of shoes Shox Mule MR4.

The navy blue trousers and jacket feature the “M” motif repeated with a jacquard knit. The trousers also feature the “NIKE x MARTINE ROSE” label on the back pocket.

The shirt has the “Martine Rose” crest, inspired by that of Croydon, a suburb in south London, where the designer was born.

The beige trench coat has sleeves that can be wrapped around the neck, like a football scarf. The shoes are a reinterpretation of the already famous Shox MR 4 (on which the designer had already previously worked), inspired by football boots.

Nike x Martine Rose shoes

The capsule collection it is completed with nylon and spandex knee-high socks, accessories such as Echo Shield sunglasses. The entire collection will be available on the site Martin-Rose.com from July 25, on site Nike.com, in select Nike stores and on the Snkrs app from July 27.

Why a gender-free collection

Although the clothing line was created to offer visibility to women, and in particular to the female role in sport, the primary objective is to open a dialogue on gender.

The collection “it’s more than just tailoring. It’s regarding the women who wear it, it’s regarding strength, resilience, beauty, power. I wanted women to feel powerful, as men often are.” Martine Rose explains.

Nike x Martine Rose sunglasses

The sartoria genderless it is a hybrid between sport, fashion and culture, which emphasizes the meaning of a dress as such, without any reference or connection to gender. «Even if I’m using women to tell the story.” continues the stylist «there is no suit-related genre. Anyone can wear it. I hope one day we won’t talk regarding gender in sports and just talk regarding sports. Once everything is removed, only the game remains».

Megan RapinoeAmerican soccer player, in reference to the campaign said: «I love the mash-up that sport, fashion and culture have become and, as an athlete, I’ve always wanted what we wear to represent something more.”

The other collaborations Nike and Martine Rose

It is not the first time that Nike and Martine Rose have created a collaboration that is inspired by subcultures and youth communities. In view of the women’s soccer World Cup, however, they have combined their creativity to create an alternative collaboration, once once more linked to the soccer-mania, which has long inspired the designer.

It is, in fact, the first collaboration envisaged for athletes off the field, with the aim, as highlighted by Nike, of bridging the gender gap in artisan sports tailoringt.

“It’s the first time Nike has done tailoring, and that in itself is really exciting, and a privilege to have done it” underlines Rose «it has been a huge learning curve and a revelation for me. It was a journey that I faced with Nike».

The campaign “The lost lionesses”

The first collaboration between the company and the designer dates back to 2021, when a shirt was launched that paid homage to the “unofficial” women’s soccer team of 1971.

Simultaneously with the line of football uniforms, the designer, under the direction of photographer Rosie Mark, has created a short movie.

The video depicts ordinary people playing football everywhere, from the corridors of an apartment building, to an improvised pitch on the street, to celebrate the uniting power of sport.

Nike the lost lionesses

The “Nike x Shox MR4” campaign

Last summer one was created campagna with the intention of paying homage to the “unsung heroes” of British football.

Billboards featured talent such as: Kat Craig, human rights lawyer supporting victims of sexual abuse in football; or, Hope Powellthe first black English woman manager in football.

READ ALSO: Disney Pixar creates the first non-binary character in the movie Elemental

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