Cost of Living9:38Halloween apples
The apple landscape has undergone a dramatic transformation, evolving right beneath our very apple trees. Consumers can now explore a vast selection of apple varieties, which goes well beyond the traditional red and green options populating grocery store shelves.
Among the exciting new offerings are unique varieties like Cosmic Crisps and SweeTangos. When Brian Frange discovered this cornucopia of flavors, he was left astounded.
“A whole world of tastes and flavours were opened up to me, and I realized that I had been eating inferior apples my entire life,” shared the apple enthusiast, comedian, and founder of an apple-ranking website with Cost of Living.
“I was furious that people were serving me Red Delicious and Granny Smith when there were delectable options like SweeTangos that essentially redefine what apples can be.”
The SweeTango is a prime example of the myriad new apple varieties flooding the market, compelling many to rethink their long-held perceptions of apple flavor. Experts assert that this renaissance in apple diversity is reshaping supermarket offerings.
The big apple
If every first bite of an apple is the best bite, then David Bedford’s experience with the first-ever Honeycrisp was nothing short of revolutionary. The moment was indeed groundbreaking, yet it also left him feeling perplexed.
“It was so different that I had a moment of uncertainty,” recalled Bedford, a horticulturist at the University of Minnesota who played a pivotal role in the discovery of the Honeycrisp, which officially entered the market in 1991.
“When you encounter something so far removed from what you know as ‘normal,’ even if it’s delightful, it’s not immediately evident that it’s exceptional.”
Bedford is a member of the team dedicated to breeding new apple varieties. After carefully contemplating this newly unearthed variety, cultivated decades in advance, he concluded that its potential appeal was significant.
The University of Minnesota subsequently patented the honeycrisp apple, marking it as one of the first apples to receive such recognition, alongside the Pink Lady from Australia, paving the way for the trademarking of apple varieties.
However, the Honeycrisp’s journey to success wasn’t instantaneous. Although taste testers enjoyed it, retailers were initially hesitant to refresh their inventory with this new apple. “The dominant apples were Red Delicious and Golden Delicious,” he noted, “and McIntosh was the staple in both the East Coast and Canadian markets.”
“Most grocers were reluctant to embrace new varieties. ‘We’ve got three,’ they asserted. ‘What more do we really need?'”
Moreover, growing Honeycrisps presents challenges due to their complexity and typically lower yields. However, when grocery stores discerned that consumers were willing to pay a premium for these flavorful apples, the Honeycrisp began to gain traction.
Before long, enthusiasm for the Honeycrisp surged, prompting growers to seek ways to capitalize on its success. Today, the genetic lineage of the Honeycrisp is intertwined with a multitude of contemporary apple varieties gracing store shelves.
“I would say in the U.S., and I would say Canada as well, that probably about half of the new varieties that are coming to market now are Honeycrisp progeny,” Bedford remarked.
WATCH | Apple growers finding new ways to sell local fruit:
Apple growers finding new ways to sell local fruit
A West Kelowna fruit market is extending its sales season due to the closure of the B.C. Tree Fruits Cooperative. Jennay Oliver, the owner and operator of Paynter’s Fruit Market, has bought roughly 32,000 kilograms of apples to assist local growers and facilitate access to local produce within her community.
Apple to apples
In the competitive world of apple ranking, Frange holds an esteemed position. His assessment places the Honeycrisp in a respectable position. He’s dedicated himself to evaluating various apple types, as seen on his website, Apple Rankings.
At the pinnacle of his rankings, boasting an impressive score of 97 out of 100, is the SweeTango, which Frange affectionately refers to as the “Holy Grail.” The Honeycrisp follows closely behind, with the Kanzi variety trailing just below.
But, not all apples gleam with desirability. When it comes to his least favorites, Frange is unapologetically blunt.
“We were all indoctrinated into apples by the Red Delicious.… That’s the apple people envision gifting to a favorite teacher,” Frange stated.
“Ironically, it might be more fitting to present it to someone you dislike, as I liken it to coffee grinds encased in a leather glove. It’s a grainy, mealy disgrace.”
The McIntosh apple, which originated in Upper Canada back in 1811, before the region became known as Ontario, also earns Frange’s critique.
“I dub the McIntosh the ‘sealskin Canadian letdown’ because its thick skin creates a formidable barrier to obtaining the genuine fruit within,” commented Frange.
While he understands that his perspectives on apple quality may not resonate with everyone — especially ardent McIntosh fans — he suggests that older apple varieties, particularly the Red Delicious, can evolve over time. Even his cherished SweeTango could lose its sweetness after several generations.
“Sometimes I receive hate-filled messages cursing my name because they say, ‘Well, this isn’t the best apple I’ve ever had. This feels a little mealy.’ And I said, ‘Well, you can blame Big Apple for spreading out this apple too far,'” Frange remarked.
Bedford concurs, noting that this phenomenon affects all apple varieties. As a variety gains popularity, increased production often leads to diminished quality.
“They eventually kind of collapse under their own popularity,” he expressed.
“As they grow in demand, more growers plant them, leading to decreased quality control, and ultimately, the variety begins to lose its appeal.”
The impact of new apples
Karina Gallardo, an agricultural economist at Washington State University, emphasizes that the array of apple varieties is a distinctive feature of this fruit. Consumers can quickly identify and distinguish between numerous varieties. In essence, they possess brand recognition.
“This is not something we observe in other fruits,” Gallardo pointed out. “We don’t see this in peaches, table grapes, or blueberries.”
However, Lenore Newman suggests that this craving for diversity is beginning to extend beyond mere apples. Director of the Food and Agricultural Institute at the University of the Fraser Valley in Abbotsford, B.C., she observes that various other fruits and vegetables, such as oranges and carrots, are also evolving into distinct varieties.
“Nowadays, if you step into upscale grocery stores, you’ll come across Cara Cara oranges or Heirloom oranges,” added Newman.
She attributes this trend partly to the influence of celebrity chefs and cooking shows showcasing seasonal varieties from different global regions, along with advancements in agricultural technology.
Chances are you’ve come across plenty of different varieties in the supermarket, including SweeTango, Jazz, Ambrosia, and Pacific Rose. (Katherine Holland/CBC)
Even if some new apple varieties come at a higher price, Frange sees the value in the investment. He believes that regardless of the cost, a truly exceptional apple will always be worth it — even if it carries a steeper price tag.
“It’s akin to the difference between savoring pizza from New York City and dining on pizza from a cafeteria in a rural Utah hospital,” Frange illustrated.
“Allow me to translate that into Canadian terms for you: It’s the difference between indulging in poutine sourced straight from Montreal and settling for poutine at a roadside stop in the United States.”
What are some of the most exciting new apple varieties that apple enthusiasts should try?
**Interview with Apple Enthusiast Brian Frange**
**Interviewer:** Welcome, Brian! The world of apples seems to be evolving rapidly. You mentioned having your perceptions reshaped by exploring new varieties. Can you tell us more about that experience?
**Brian Frange:** Absolutely! I’ve been an apple lover my entire life, but discovering varieties like SweeTango and Cosmic Crisp was a revelation. It’s like opening a door to a whole world of flavors! I realized just how many inferior apples I’d been eating before—like Red Delicious and Granny Smith—which, frankly, can’t compare to these newer options.
**Interviewer:** You mentioned your strong opinions about some traditional varieties. What makes apples like the SweeTango so special?
**Brian Frange:** The SweeTango is a game changer. It combines sweetness with a wonderful crispness, which really sets it apart. It’s scored a 97 on my Apple Rankings, and I even call it the ”Holy Grail” of apples. It completely redefines the expectations we have for what an apple should taste like.
**Interviewer:** That’s quite a strong endorsement! On the flip side, you’re quite critical of Red Delicious. Why is that?
**Brian Frange:** The Red Delicious is often seen as the quintessential apple, but I believe it’s vastly overrated. I describe it as resembling “coffee grinds encased in a leather glove.” The texture is grainy and mealy, which doesn’t do justice to what an apple can be. I think it’s time we move past this nostalgic but disappointing variety.
**Interviewer:** You’ve worked on evaluating numerous apple varieties. How do you think this growing diversity in apples changes consumer behavior?
**Brian Frange:** Consumers are becoming more adventurous. They’re eager to try new flavors beyond what they grew up with. This renaissance in apple varieties means shoppers are looking for quality, taste, and unique experiences when they choose their fruits, which is great news for both consumers and growers.
**Interviewer:** Speaking of growers, David Bedford mentioned that many new apple varieties are descendants of the Honeycrisp. How does that lineage affect the market?
**Brian Frange:** The Honeycrisp has certainly paved the way for a new wave of apples. Its success encouraged growers to invest in new breeding programs, leading to innovations that keep pushing the envelope on flavor and texture. However, as more growers plant them, we have to be cautious about maintaining quality.
**Interviewer:** With all this change in the apple landscape, what advice would you give consumers to help them select the best varieties?
**Brian Frange:** Be curious! Don’t just go for the familiar choices. Try different varieties and discover what you enjoy. Explore local markets, ask for recommendations, and don’t hesitate to experiment. After all, there’s a vast orchard of flavors waiting to be discovered!
**Interviewer:** Thank you, Brian, for sharing your insights and enthusiasm for apples. It sounds like there’s so much more to explore in this delicious fruit!
**Brian Frange:** Thank you for having me! Happy apple tasting!
