The curious procession of the Galician town of O Castro illuminated with snails

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O Barco de Valdeorras (Ourense), Apr 15 (EFE).- The procession of the Caracoles is one of the most striking in Galicia. The fact of being able to fully see the lighting of the shells attracts more and more curious people to O Castro, in O Barco de Valdeorras.

The procession of La Dolorosa, which takes place on Good Friday night, is one of the most eagerly-awaited events of Holy Week for residents and onlookers who have not hesitated to come to this town located in eastern Ourense to enjoy the picturesque procession.

Practically unknown and unique in Galicia, it begins at ten o’clock at night with the departure of the Dolorosa through the streets of the town, located just one kilometer from the urban center of O Barco de Valdeorras, which are illuminated by the light given off by hundreds of snail shells, located along the route.

“We came to spend Holy Week here, we found out regarding this and we didn’t hesitate to come. I want to see it, it’s very original,” a resident of Oviedo told Efe, who came to Galicia these days to enjoy these dates with family members.

The origin of this tradition, which has been celebrated almost continuously for more than a century, is not clear. One of the most widespread versions is that some neighbors decided, at the end of the 19th century, in times of scarcity, to use the shells to illuminate the route of this procession. Until well into the 20th century, the entourage arrived at the Pazo de los Flórez, where they honored another image that is kept in the 17th century chapel, now converted into the Pazo do Castro rural hotel.

Since then, the few neighbors that still remain have been fighting to keep this tradition alive, which is included in the religious programme.

“It is a very old tradition, since there was no light (public lighting), the shells of the snail were used to illuminate the procession. They call it the procession of the Caracoles because they light up with snails and also with pineapples”, explains Teresa, one of the guardians of this rite, which has been preserved to this day, and which attracts hundreds of neighbors and onlookers every year. Of course, conditioned to the weather, since if it rains the flame of the snails goes out and there is no light.

To prepare the shells, Teresa explains that days before and even months in advance they “empty” and proceed to dry the snails. On their own day, the neighbors paste the shells with a mass on the walls of the house, windows and crossroads. They put a tow with gasoline and oil on the snail shells, which they light at night.

“After eating we start to prepare them, we wait until the last minute to light them, one is lit yes and the other is not, so that they stay for the return”, indicates Teresa who remembers this procession “of all life”.

During the tour, the men are in charge of lighting the shells and keeping them with light that serves to guide the passage of the image of the Virgin who “is dressed in black” and is carried by young women “in mourning” while the companions sing chants and prayers “very old, typical of this procession”.

The collection of these small animals begins months in advance. “Normally, we collect them throughout the year and we collect them, people who eat snails keep the shell”; he details. As an anecdote, he remembers that one year “they had to buy them” from a farm, because there was none, a problem that they will not have this year that of not having had processions due to the pandemic.

“Many people come from Ponferrada and neighboring areas who know it and come every year. It is something different and where everyone is also involved, including the children”, says Teresa. This neighbor fights because this tradition “does not get lost”. “I would be very sorry if it were lost,” she concludes.

(c) EFE Agency