In this year of many anniversaries, that of the TAG Heuer Carrera was one of the most anticipated. For what ? Because the piece has the history of the greatest, its prize list, its cult pieces, a factory to take it to the firmament…but not (yet?) the price level of its sisters. For example: the Rolex Daytona (60 years old this year), Fifty Fathoms (70 years old), without even mentioning the Royal Oak whose 50th anniversary was celebrated last year. In this very exclusive landscape, if you can still afford an affordable icon, it’s the Carrera.
Three months ago, in Singapore, the manufacture already unveiled a first chronograph produced in only 600 pieces, inspired by the reference 2447 SN from the end of the 1960s. A very beautiful “panda” piece equipped with a Valjoux chronograph at manual winding, obviously gone in a few hours…
Three new additions to the current collection
It is therefore now necessary to focus on the three main novelties of the Carrera. They share a number of commonalities. First, an astonishing glassbox type sapphire crystal. In addition to summoning an obvious vintage heritage, it still responds to the same desire to offer a piece that is perfectly legible from all angles, an eternal priority for the Carrera. But there the evocation of the past stops. Because the piece, fundamentally, prefers to project itself into the future, under the skilful pencil stroke of Guy Bove (ex Ferdinand Berthoud, then Breitling).
The man designed an aesthetically very rich and audacious piece. In addition to the blue of the dial, which benefits from an atypical circular satin finish, we note that the two chronograph counters have a particularly raised flange. It allows the view to plunge into the center of each of them. This feeling is reinforced by their slope, oriented towards the inside of the counter and which guides the gaze in the same direction.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph © TAG Heuer
In the same way, the timer unfolds on a flange curved inwards, with a very steep slope which is reminiscent of that of the Monthléry speed ring. It is punctuated by indexes applied at two levels, equipped with a luminescent point, but whose entire rest of the surface is mirror polished. At 6 o’clock, the date window falls with the same verticality, just under an astonishing and very sober signature summed up in a single word: “Swiss”. Uncommon !
Fake twins
The second version is quite different. Already, it no longer has two counters, but three. They are gray (“reverse panda”) and have a pronounced circular sunburst finish from which, for once, the dial is exempt this time.
Unusually, the date window is tilted at 12 o’clock. The location is confusing to say the least, but it ultimately balances the room quite naturally. Finally, while the strap of the blue model was made of a fairly traditional matte leather, that of the black model is perforated, reinforcing its racing spirit.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph © TAG Heuer
Bye-bye Calibre Heuer 02
Each piece enters the current collection, and has the good taste to be limited to a very reasonable diameter of 39 mm. This enhances the elegance of the watch, which can also be worn on both male and female wrists. Finally, they are both equipped with a new version of the famous Caliber Heuer 02, renamed TH20-00. In both cases, it remains visible through a sapphire caseback.
This development is the result of the ingenious mind of the director of TAG Heuer movements, Carole Forestier, ex-mind behind the finest Cartier complications. She revised the winding of the movement, which is now bidirectional. Another major advance: the power reserve is now increased to 80 hours. The finish of the components has also been revised. This Caliber TH-20 joins the family of Calibers TH30 and TH50 already in service.
New COSC Tourbillon
Finally, a very latest version features a chronometer-certified tourbillon. The coin is more demonstrative, with a diameter of 42 mm, in a steel box. This reference will be available slightly after the two previous ones, in May 2023.
Most of the blue dial has been retained, with the novelty of a large opening at 6 o’clock which allows the tourbillon to be seen working. Unlike the version simply fitted with a chronograph, the version fitted with a tourbillon has a large bright orange central hand, the aesthetics of which can be discussed.
Sportier, more ostentatious, it nonetheless recalls the manufacture’s ability to offer a chronometer-certified tourbillon that we used to see in much more modern 45 mm references.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon © TAG Heuer