Summer in Denmark – part I: the beach

2023-07-16 13:50:05

When we ordered tickets for Bruce Springsteen’s concert in Copenhagen a few months ago, it was clear to us from the beginning that we wouldn’t be in the city itself for more than three days (a phenomenon that may or may not be related to age: impatience with big cities, certainly on vacation). One of us wanted to spend a few days deep in the forest, and one of us wanted to A classic summer house-on-the-beach vacation. So it was decided on both.

Summer houses are a thing in Denmark. About four hundred years ago, a government decision was made to help every person (and especially every worker) to own a summer house to rest, be in the sun and grow vegetables in the garden.
By the way, I found this information on the Internet the night I woke up at four in the morning and looked up “The history of summer houses in Denmark”. A few minutes later I noticed that the sky in the window was pink and I got to see the most beautiful sunrise I’ve ever seen (in the last picture).

In any case, the role of summer house for our short beach vacation was won by Helenekilde Badehotel, built in 1896 as a private summer house and converted into a hotel in 1904 (I found it in Highlight Denmark by the photographer/promenade Der Rothem).
The summer house stands on the cliff with a sea view and wooden stairs to the beach. In addition to the rooms (small and relatively modest) there are many public spaces designed like a homely living room and overlooking the sea, a dreamy garden with many corners to read in, and of course a sauna whose one wall is a window to the sea.
The beach town is Tisvilde and is one of the most popular (not to mention expensive) summer vacation destinations in Denmark. It is regarding a 45-minute drive from the city by car or an hour and twenty by train. It has everything you need for this kind of summer vacation fantasy: people dressed like in a Nancy Meyers movie, a main street full of shops with linen clothes, ceramics and soaps (the latter two handmade), restaurants, bars and a music festival in season.

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What to wear on your summer vacation in Tisvilde even if it only lasts one day (aka coastal grandmother):

Striped shirt /// Striped linen pants with elastic or drawstring /// Bandana (you can collect your hair with it when it’s hot and use it as a scarf when it’s cold) /// A beach bag that can also be used as a bag to get on the plane /// Birkenstock model Arizona – the jeans go down with them to the beach during the day and go out with them to a bar in the evening. You can add socks. I was under the impression that the rule in Denmark is that what happens below the ankle stays below the ankle.

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Something else:
At the Louisiana Museum, which is one of the places that everyone who comes to Copenhagen makes time for (and is a 40-minute drive from the coastal town), I came across the most exciting exhibition I’ve seen in recent years (maybe you all have already seen it): The Visitors of the Icelandic artist Ragnar Kjartansson. Ragnar (we’ll go with a personal name) assembled a group of musicians in different rooms in a historic mansion in New York’s Hudson Valley, and recorded them playing the same piece together, each from their own room. I don’t know what makes this thing so exciting, but if you happen to be there, you’ll understand for yourself.
(This recommendation is related here because: a. The Louisiana Museum is also located on a cliff overlooking the sea, and b. The mansion in the Hudson Valley also looks like the summer house from dreams).

The Visitors, this is what the mansion looks like

Marvelous, utterly compelling and hypnotic. Kjartansson’s multi-screen video installation “The Visitors” is the best artwork of the 21st century

(I know nothing regarding art, but that’s what The Gaurdian had to say)

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My favorite song these days (the second song in Bruce Springsteen’s concert):

I make my vows to those who’ve come before
I turn up the volume, let the spirits be my guide
Meet you, brother and sister, on the other side


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#Summer #Denmark #part #beach

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