2023-09-23 07:04:23
Severe elegance at Tod’s, radical minimalism at MM6, masculine aesthetic with large volumes at Calcaterra and futuristic spirit with a total white look at Sportmax. Four different points of view on fashion with the same thing in common, the return to deep sobriety for spring-summer 2024. This is the groundswell that swept across the Milanese catwalks on Friday.
See the fashion showTod’s, spring-summer 2024 – © Launchmetrics
For his last show at Tod’s, Walter Chiapponi, who is leaving the Italian luxury shoemaker following four years as creative director, struck a major blow. He obtained as space, following two years of negotiations, the impressive hangars of the Laboratori Scala Ansaldo, where the sets for the shows of the famous Milanese theater of La Scala are created, with the backdrop of statues, woodwork and other friezes in preparation for the scenography of Verdi’s Don Carlos, which will open the bel canto season on December 7. Pieces of Verdian opera accompany the parade, giving the whole thing an even more solemn touch.
The purity characterizes this beautiful collection, where the stylist wanted to go to the essential. The silhouettes, almost austere and often available tone-on-tone in a neutral palette, are both comfortable and ultra-chic. “I moved away from romanticism to move towards a more severe elegance. I worked a lot on the couture aspect and on the essence of the garment with precious fabrics and great research into materials,” explains the designer behind the scenes, who also brought on site some of the house’s artisan shoemakers, who might be seen at work on their long wooden workbenches installed in the middle of the decor.
The codes of the men’s wardrobe are diverted and subtly inserted into the women’s wardrobe. From the suit to the men’s jacket, sometimes worn inside out for a new effect, including the shirt transformed into a dress and the classic men’s vest, reworked into a sleeveless low-cut top. Large leather belts, equipped with pockets and a metal buckle, on which to hang a pair of driving gloves, emphasize the waist.
Pleated skirts bring movement to certain looks, while flashes of color appear here and there, particularly in chunky knit pieces. As always at Tod’s, leather takes pride of place. Particularly the most supple skins, in which the designer cuts shirts, jackets, skirts, pants and trench coats. A tight strapless dress buttoned in the back closed the show. Moved, Walter Chiapponi comes to say hello, acclaimed by the public.
See the MM6 Maison Margiela show, spring-summer 2024 – © Launchmetrics
The day before, Martin Margiela had unveiled the new collection of his contemporary MM6 line in a similar spirit with loose and comfortable silhouettes in a palette of black, gray, white, beige and flesh, available through different materials and touches. “Matte, satin, shiny”, specifies a slogan printed in black on a white apron.
Once once more, the subject is centered on the construction of clothing starting from the work uniform. Asymmetrical tunics suspended by a single-shoulder strap are reminiscent of butcher’s aprons. They are available in white cotton, in a lingerie version with black lace or in a dark woolen cloth usually used to cut a costume.
MM6 deconstructed, working on lengths, superpositions and asymmetries. Long tunics and t-shirts are slit sideways, sometimes without a sleeve. The jackets lengthen, resembling short coats, the very loose pants, reminiscent of the cargo model, slit on the sides like the sides of a skirt, the impalpable cardigans stretch to the knees. Small jackets and bib tops are tied with simple ribbons. Just like aprons.
See the Calcaterra show, spring-summer 2024 – © Launchmetrics
Simplicity and couture construction are also on the agenda at Calcaterra, which uses the same neutral and classic palette. Stylist Daniele Calcaterra emphasizes volumes with a collection composed of loose shorts, enveloping coats, trench coats that look like hoods, exaggerated cardigans, dresses and flowing suits.
Everything seems oversized, with clear references to the 1980s, as evidenced by this large faded denim jacket, and especially the extra wide shoulders and sleeves of this other suit jacket, also cut very short like a Spencer model.
The designer follows in the footsteps of his first steps in fashion, diving back into his archives. We find his penchant for beautiful materials, precise cuts and the play of masculine/feminine. So cooler or warmer shades, like these botanical greens, this tangerine zest or a rusty brown, enhance this sober wardrobe. Fringed raffia pieces and delicate details, such as these pearls sprinkled on pleated pants or these mini-baguettes sewn on a silk blouse, bring a feminine touch to the ensemble.
See the Sportmax fashion show, spring-summer 2024 – © Launchmetrics
Change of register at Sportmax, which delivers a minimal-futuristic collection. The models stroll down a catwalk covered in white tiles as if in a laboratory, circling around an enormous aquarium filled with lush flowers and plants. Everything seems sanitized, as if bathed in a milky world. With a few exceptions, the collection is in fact composed exclusively of total white looks presented in the most varied shades and textures.
Candid white, ivory, vanilla, matte, translucent, opaque or even blurry, when a layer of tulle covers the body and clothes, which seem to be wrapped in cellophane. Dresses are made in shiny satins, other outfits in PVC or technical fabrics. Dresses, coats and suits are made from sturdy cottons, crisp coated linens and even paper fibers.
Everything suggests a future world, sometimes worrying, with dresses that look like medical coats, shirts with oversized shoulders and extended sleeves, reminiscent of straitjackets, and strange tubular dresses in the shape of a giant sleeve with disproportionate collar. The Velcro fasteners reinforce this techno-futuristic spirit.
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