2024-03-29 15:28:34
29 mars 2024
Are you more of a soap, shower gel or oil type? On the shelves of supermarkets but also in pharmacies, there is a plethora of body wash products on offer. On what criteria should you base your choice between these three types of products with different textures and compositions? Decryption.
“From ancient times until World War II, people only used soap to wash,”locates Dr Céline Couteau, lecturer at the faculty of pharmacy at the University of Nantes (Loire-Atlantique). Behind this symbol of cleanliness lies a chemical process “Soap is obtained by reacting a strong base with a fatty substance,” she continues. In other words, “soda to make a solid soap. Or potash for liquid or soft soap”. The process is called saponification.
Soap, not for everyone
Due to these “strong bases”, the product in question has a so-called “alkaline” pH, as opposed to an acidic pH. And for good reason, “it releases on the skin the base which was used in its manufacture”, adds Dr. Couteau. Not to mention that its detergent effect will also tend “to remove the skin film present on the surface of the skin”. Of course, this can be done once more quite quickly, but repeated use of soap actually weakens the skin, which is likely to make it more vulnerable to external attacks. However, despite this somewhat aggressive and irritating aspect, “the soap is suitable for people who do not have skin problems, such as eczema, psoriasis, dry skin…”she reassures.
Marketing in force
For gel and oil? Céline Couteau returns to history. “After the Second World War, we saw the appearance of syndets (synthetic detergents) which are ‘dermatological bars’. These are hygiene products containing surfactants, like soaps, but without soap. With a pH adapted to our skin. Shower gels and oils correspond to syndets. Just like shampoos, washing foams and hand cleaners.
However, there is no question of recommending them all the time, given the diversity of products sold! In the shower, the oils appear suitable for those with fragile, dry or even atopic skin. Applied to the skin, the oil – or other “cleansing oil” – thus constitutes a fatty substance which will in some way help to avoid the direct “attack” of water. As for the shower gel, it is notably made up of a washing base, salt, a humectant, antimicrobial preservatives, a “pH adapter” such as soda, dyes and even a perfume.
In general, if you are affected by a dermatological disease, favor “soap-free” gels or bars or even products with a neutral PH, that is to say, a PH close to that of our skin because it does not accentuate prevents skin dryness and thus respects the hydrolipidic film.
The same goes for children. “Classic” soaps are sometimes too harsh for their fragile skin. Prefer suitable products, ideally purchased in pharmacies.
Oil… without oil
In any case, some advice: “you must read the labels carefully”, if only to identify the types of preservatives. Not to mention, continues Céline Couteau, that “some oils do not contain a single drop of oil. These are in fact classic shower gels ». To be sure, you must find the word “oil” in the list of components. For a gel, aim for “aqua”… And one thing is certain: if you suffer from a skin disease, avoid scented products, which might be allergenic to your skin. Do you have any doubts? Do not hesitate to refer to the blog of Céline Couteau and Laurence Coiffard at the address: www.regard-sur-les-cosmetiquers.fr. You will find valuable advice there which will allow you to distinguish between marketing promises and real benefits, in complete independence.
Source: Interview with Céline Couteau, March 28, 2024
Written by: David Picot – Edited by: Vincent Roche
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