Semi-permanent varnishes: a carcinogenic risk

2023-05-22 07:41:05

Real trend of the moment, semi-permanent varnishes are no less dangerous for health. This is what denounces the National Academy of Medicine according to which the lamps used for the application of such products emit carcinogenic UVA rays which are harmful to the skin. We take stock.

Semi-permanent varnishes: a not-so-trivial use…

Benefiting from a growing craze in recent years, semi-permanent varnishes are part of the current trend for women looking for an impeccable manicure in all circumstances. These products have the considerable advantage of being able to remain intact and shiny for several weeks. This property is linked in particular to the technique used to dry and fix the different layers of varnish applied in a few minutes. This is a so-called “catalysis” technique which uses a lamp combining UV (minimum 48 watts) and light-emitting diode (LED).

However, the use of such a technique is dangerous for health. according to the National Academy of Medicine because these lamps emit UVA rays which are carcinogenic and promote skin aging.

A proven risk of induced cancers

If the favoring role of UV lamps in the induction of skin cancers had been suspected since 2009, recent studies have confirmed these fears. A Tunisian study from 2022 thus reported three cases of skin cancer such as squamous cell carcinoma induced by the use of semi-permanent varnishes. These induced cancers turn out to be easily identifiable because it is always the same mutations that are caused by UVA rays in the cells. An American study published in the journal Nature in 2023 subsequently confirmed this carcinogenic risk by means of experiments carried out on animal and human skin cells.

Allergic skin reactions and mechanical damage to the nails have also been reported.

To know ! It would seem that certain factors increase the risks of induced cancers: the early age of onset of use (20 years on average), the frequency (5 to 6 times per year on average) and the duration of exposure (over several years ). As for the terrain (clear phototype, immunosuppression), it might also play an aggravating role.

In this context, the Academy of Medicine insists on the need to assess more broadly and over the long term the risk of skin carcinoma induced by these repeated irradiations. It also calls for more information to be provided to the public and better supervision of the use of these lamps in manicure salons and nail salons.

In the meantime, with a view to prevention, the Academy recommends applying sunscreen to the hands 20 minutes before exposure to these UV/LED lamps.

Déborah L., Doctor of Pharmacy

Sources

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