2023-12-23 07:22:00
Something is cooking in Bariloche.
Very different, innovative and exquisite.
In keeping with the “scientific city” profile found around here.
Science increasingly occupies more space in mountain gastronomy, making it possible to make a more than promising qualitative leap..
In the last edition of Bariloche a la Carta, weeks ago, it was the ideal setting to corroborate This trend, that of “scientific cuisine”, which was seen with complete clarity.
Lucio Bellora, the architect and alma mater of this great foodie event that mobilizes thousands of residents and visitors eager to enjoy “the latest and the new,” comments: “there is a majority of gastronomics who are looking for something different. For example: in the Bariloche a la Carte cooking classes you meet scientists; It is something that I have not seen in other events at the national level. Here, in a kitchen or in a foodie intervention one meets a chef, a producer, scientists and researchers talking regarding ferments, fungi, yeasts… This is how one witnesses discoveries and discoveries following long periods of study and experimentation.”
“Working in interdisciplinary teams where cooks and chefs are one of the group is no longer new in Bariloche.”he adds.
This vision is shared by bartender Maru Ávila, who rotates the most renowned bars, restaurants and kitchens in Bariloche and surrounding areas. She, who is an innate creative, when she looks around her is encouraged to affirm that “in our city I see and see that more and more of us are into the question of constant study and research.”
They go out to explore, to look for the difference, to leave a regional mark
“While we continue to see that there is still a lot of copyor there are few professionals who choose to experiment and renew. Who go out and explore alone and also with others. What attracts you to the avant-garde? and this regarding giving a twist to what is known and thus being able to renew and reach a certain originality. And this way of proceeding, for me, is a way of seeing life: being real, authentic, risky, different and unique,” he enthuses.
“Definitely There is search and research in Bariloche gastronomy because if not every year we would be seeing the same thing and that is not what happens,” he concludes.
Bellora detailed that regarding research and development “I think these occur in two lines. First, there is research by very important State organizations linked to gastronomy such as the Ministry of Science and Technology; from the Province of Río Negro that has a program called Table Science; the Conicet; “Other organizations that are developing different types of yeasts and experimenting with ferments and that following these investigations, technology transfer is carried out to small and large producers in the city.”
Second, something more than relevant: “Bariloche is one of the cities with the highest density of scientists per square kilometer in the world and the one with the highest density in Latin America. Perhaps that is why there is a lot of transfer from these scientists to personal projects. For example: there are people in science who began to make beer, others whiskey; Many biologists, on the one hand, are researchers and, on the other hand, they dedicate themselves from their private sphere to the development of mushrooms and edible wild plants… Whether they like it or not, these professionals who make their way through gastronomy add a lot to this combination of science and gastronomy.”
Chef Martín Martín Erkekdjian, who together with his partner María Constanza Rossi are experiencing a glorious personal moment in this city, affirms that “local and regional gastronomy is in full growth; This is seen and felt year following year. Different proposals of quality and care, with awareness and respect for the place where we live, both for tourism and for residents, put the city in a wonderful gastronomic expansion.”
The values that are on the rise in Bariloche cuisine
Alejandro Philbert, the creator of the drink that breaks it this summer, “Athos gin”, highlights that beyond the scientific presence that is added to making local gastronomy there is something that lasts, congratulations: whether it is a restaurant or a top restaurant, “The diner always finds the fragrances, aromas and textures of the mountain landscape in each dish served. That aura is unique to us”.
It is clear that the attributes that Bariloche marks are transparency in procedures, traditions, health and naturalness. And many dare to say that technology – also understood as Artificial Intelligence – and marketing also add to that very necessary relationship that chefs want to have with consumers. “Science + research = a formula that revitalizes the desire to maintain creativity in the kitchen,” concludes talent scout Bellora.
This note arose from an alert that Eugenia Portiello @eugebass, social media manager of Bariloche, sent me when the last edition of the BALC was in full swing. “The scientific side of local cuisine is there to be put on the radar,” she warned. From then on, the queries for this note were made possible thanks to the generosity of her observation and recording, a product of her intense work in the city.
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