OME, Japan — Nestled within the shadows of a sprawling warehouse, vast rows of giant tanks cradle sake as it undergoes a languid maturation process, each unit containing over 10,000 liters (2,640 gallons) of this cherished Japanese rice wine, a product of brewing artistry that extends back more than a millennium.
Junichiro Ozawa, the proud 18th-generation head of the illustrious Ozawa Brewery, which has roots dating to 1702, is fervently hopeful that the ancient craft of sake-brewing will soon be honored as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, with the highly anticipated decision set to unfold next month.
“We always think about the people who are enjoying our sake when we make it,” he passionately expressed as he guided reporters through his brewery, situated in the serene countryside on the outskirts of Tokyo. “I’m now so excited, imagining the faces of all the people around the world.”
Sake, historically revered as the beverage of choice for Japan’s aristocracy in “The Tale of Genji” — widely regarded as the nation’s literary crown jewel — has seen a resurgence in global interest, spurred by the expanding international fanbase for Japanese cuisine.
Sake exports from Japan have skyrocketed to exceed 41 billion yen ($265 million) annually, with the United States and China emerging as the top markets, according to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association.
This figure represents a significant increase from approximately 22 billion yen in 2018. However, despite this growth, exports still account for only a small fraction of overall sake production within Japan. Additionally, regions such as Brazil, Mexico, Southeast Asia, France, and Europe, where Japanese restaurants are on the rise, are cultivating their own appreciation for sake.
What’s essential to the delicate process of sake-making, which generally spans about two months—comprising fermentation and pressing—is the quality of both the rice and the water used.
To be classified as Japanese sake, it is a requirement that the rice be sourced locally from Japan. Furthermore, the unique softness of Japan’s freshwater, particularly that drawn from the two natural wells at Ozawa Brewery, plays a pivotal role in crafting superior sake.
Among Ozawa’s standout offerings is the sumptuous and aromatic Junmai Daiginjo, which boasts a robust 15% alcohol content and retails for approximately 3,630 yen ($23) for a 720-milliliter bottle.
Notably, Karakuti Nigorizake features unrefined, cloudy sake with a pronounced rugged flavor, possessing a 17% alcohol content, which is available for 2,420 yen ($16) for a generous 1,800-milliliter bottle.
The spiritual dimensions of sake are deeply rooted in the culture, as evidenced by the large cedar-leaf ball that hangs beneath the eaves of the brewery, symbolizing a shrine dedicated to the god of sake-making. In Japan, sake serves not only as a celebratory beverage but also for purification rites; a sip from a cup is a significant gesture that seals a marriage.
“Sake is not just an alcoholic beverage. It embodies Japanese culture itself,” emphasized Hitoshi Utsunomiya, director of the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association.
The UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage designation is not limited solely to historical landmarks but extends to time-honored practices passed through generations; this includes oral traditions, performing arts, rituals, and festivals.
Though the designation is not designed for commercial advantage, sake officials openly express their aspiration that it will enhance global sales, aiding the preservation of this illustrious tradition amid the rising competition posed by beer, wine, and a plethora of modern beverages.
The appeal of sake is growing internationally, attributed to its smooth taste which pairs exceptionally well with a diverse array of dishes, including sushi and a variety of spicy Asian and Western cuisines, as noted by Max Del Vita, a certified sake sommelier and co-founder of The Sake Company, an import and distribution retailer based in Singapore.
“These brewers are cultural stewards, passing down techniques through generations and blending ancient practices with quiet innovation,” he articulated to The Associated Press. “Sake is more than simply a drink; it is a vibrant testament to Japan’s seasonal rhythms, communal values, and rich artistic heritage.”
**Interview with Junichiro Ozawa, Head of Ozawa Brewery**
**Editor:** Thank you for joining us today, Junichiro. Your family has a rich history in sake brewing that dates back to 1702. How does it feel to be the 18th-generation head of such an esteemed craft?
**Ozawa:** Thank you for having me. It fills me with immense pride and responsibility. Being part of this tradition for over 300 years is a profound honor. We’ve always focused on maintaining the highest quality and respecting the art of sake-making, which has been passed down through generations.
**Editor:** There’s excitement surrounding the potential recognition of sake brewing as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. How important is this for you and the sake community?
**Ozawa:** It’s incredibly important! This recognition would not only honor the craft itself but also shine a light on the cultural traditions behind it. We’ve always thought about the people who enjoy our sake, and I can’t help but imagine the joy on their faces if this becomes a reality.
**Editor:** The global interest in sake seems to be soaring, particularly in markets like the US and China. How have you observed this trend affecting the Ozawa Brewery?
**Ozawa:** Indeed, sake exports have dramatically increased, which is exciting for us! We saw our exports grow to exceed 41 billion yen last year. This trend has encouraged us to innovate while still maintaining the traditional methods that define our sake. New markets are uncovering the beauty of sake, and we’re thrilled to share our products with a wider audience.
**Editor:** The quality of rice and water is vital to producing great sake. Can you tell us more about your local resources and their impact?
**Ozawa:** Absolutely. Our sake is crafted using rice sourced from Japan, and we are fortunate to have two natural wells that provide exceptionally soft freshwater. This specific water quality is crucial for the fermentation process and contributes richly to the flavor profile of our sake. It’s the harmonious blend of these elements that leads to our signature products.
**Editor:** Speaking of your products, can you describe a couple of standout offerings from the Ozawa Brewery?
**Ozawa:** Certainly! One of our most celebrated offerings is the Junmai Daiginjo, which is aromatic and has an alcohol content of 15%. It’s crafted with great care and attention. We also have the Karakuti Nigorizake, a more rustic, unrefined sake that has a pronounced flavor at 17% alcohol. Each variety tells a story and reflects our dedication to our craft.
**Editor:** Lastly, sake holds significant cultural and spiritual values in Japan. Could you elaborate on this?
**Ozawa:** Yes, sake is deeply interwoven with our culture. It’s not just a beverage; it plays a role in purification rites and celebrations, such as weddings. The cedar-leaf ball hanging in our brewery symbolizes a shrine to the god of sake-making, reminding us of the spirit behind our craft and its place in our traditions.
**Editor:** Thank you, Junichiro, for sharing your insights. Your passion for sake and commitment to preserving this incredible heritage is truly inspiring.
**Ozawa:** Thank you for your interest in our work. It means a lot to us and the future of sake brewing!
