REPERAGES #73-2023 (free access) Seven watches patrolling in all directions at the forefront of new objects of time

2023-05-06 06:00:00

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ULYSSE NARDIN Classico Manara Déclic 40 mm

Ulysse Nardin reproduced through the art of miniature painting three emblematic illustrations of the work of Milo Manara. In the heart of the Swiss Jura mountains, in the town of Le Locle, the craftsmen of Ulysse Nardin perpetuate this exceptional know-how which requires incomparable manual dexterity. Hundreds of hours of miniature painting are required to faithfully reproduce Manara’s designs on watch dials, which are nearly ten times smaller in area than the original watercolors.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun

IWC Schaffhausen presents its first Pilot’s Watches Ceramic chronographs, with a diameter of 41 millimetres. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun features a black “Jet Black” zirconia ceramic case – a first for an IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph with a diameter of 41 millimeters. This model is driven by the IWC-manufactured caliber 69380, an extremely robust and reliable mechanical chronograph movement. The luxury Swiss watch manufacturer is now enriching its line with two 41 millimeter diameter chronographs, a compact and easy-to-wear format. It is also the first time that IWC has offered a Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 with a ceramic case – a high-performance, extremely hard and scratch-resistant material. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun (Ref. 389401) is made of black ceramic – a first for this type of model in the IWC collection. “Jet Black” ceramic, inspired by the technical components of supersonic jets, has become the signature material of the IWC Top Gun line since its launch in 2007. A black dial and black rubber strap complement the all-black ceramic case. Luminescent elements stand out clearly on the black hands and the dial, and promote better readability even in the most extreme conditions. Titanium pushers and caseback reinforce this sporty design. The integrated IWC EasX-Change system allows straps to be changed quickly and easily, without the use of tools. IWC Schaffhausen was the first watch manufacturer to use ceramic for watch cases. In 1986, IWC unveiled the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. 3755), the world’s first wristwatch with a black zirconia ceramic case. IWC is also one of the first watch brands to have developed different ceramic colors, including white, blue or green. The production of a colored ceramic watch case is a true technical feat. Zirconium oxide is combined with other metal oxides to give ceramic its color. Each grade requires different raw materials and a precise mixing ratio. The manufacturing process and its specific parameters – including the temperature and the precise duration of the sintering process – must be adapted to each ceramic grade. What’s more, colored ceramics are also extremely uncompromising when it comes to the purity of their raw materials.

UNIMATIC Model Quattro UT4-B

With the new ref. UT4-B, the iconic Modello Quattro undergoes a complete rebuild, transforming it into the ultimate tool watch, while remaining a benchmark of reliability and utilitarian simplicity. Thanks to the Seiko VH31 quartz movement nestled in the in-house designed 360° protection system and its 300m water resistance, the Modello Quattro UT4-B combines the best attributes of diver’s watches and field watches. The 360° protection system is designed in-house and manufactured in Italy to the highest standards. It is specially designed to absorb strong shocks and vibrations that might otherwise damage the watch movement. Its bespoke construction, consisting of a 360° protective shell that perfectly holds the movement and a dial protection ring, allows the watch to withstand extreme environmental stresses while remaining very light.

Model Quattro ref. UT4-B is the quartz watch Made in Italy. It features matte black with printed Arabic numerals and pale green ring, pale green triangle Super-LumiNova C3 hour markers and white open second rail, as well as dark gray dial borders. The time is indicated by the matching set of phantom scale hands and the inverted lollipop-shaped seconds hand with a matt white tip. The 2.8 mm thick flat sapphire crystal is anti-reflective treatment. Timekeeping precision is guaranteed by the Seiko VH31 quartz movement with sweeping second hand, equipped with an anti-shock system Made in Italy. It is mounted on a two-piece strap with black nylon keeper and sandblasted stainless steel hardware, signed Unimatic, which fits 22mm drilled lugs. With its rugged nature and clean lines, its military look is always in style, making it the perfect companion for everyday wear.

ARE 240 St GZ

Main features: a focus on essential functions and a clear display. Luminescent hands and indicators guarantee. These watches were designed for sailors and water sports enthusiasts. For them, the weather plays a decisive role in every sense of the word, and comparing the local tide chart to define the current range is imperative, as is the glance at the rotating tide bezel located at the interior. Thanks to it, it is possible to directly measure the relative water level of a place when the tide rises, that is to say until the next high tide.

FRANCK MULLER The Round Second Central

The Round collection is enriched with a new model with curves and a dial redesigned, offering a new range that is both classic and timeless. Alongside its distinctive shapes such as the Vanguard or the Curvex CX, Franck Muller does not forget lovers of round shapes and enriches this family with the Round Second Central. The new Round collection is a reinterpretation of the Maison’s iconic shapes, adapted to a round case with a discreet and elegant design. The 12 numerals, applied by hand on a guilloché dial and its domed sapphire crystal recall the iconic Cintrée Curvex shape, true technical know-how. In order to remain faithful to the DNA of the brand, the characteristic elements are represented on this timepiece such as the applied numerals, the Clous de Paris guilloché and the domed sapphire crystal. The guilloché dial inspired by a twisted Clous de Paris gives an impression of movement on the dial and offers very rich reflections thanks to the scintillation of the different facets. The Spirograph inspired the dial. The guillochage was developed at length in order to harmonize the proportions of the Clous de Paris motif, both on the outside and in the center of the dial. The Round Second Central is enriched with three elements – the case, the outer bezel and the inner bezel – each of which can be made of a different material, which allows a two-tone treatment and gives a strong identity to the timepiece. Its understated and classic aesthetic gives it a sophisticated elegance, while its design makes it a practical choice for everyday use. The Round line affirms Franck Muller’s mastery of the watchmaking art in its purest tradition. Purity and sobriety of design are the guiding principles of the collection.

CHANEL Interstellar Boy.Friend Cyberdata

A magnetic interpretation. A circuit board set with diamonds on the dial. A quilted black patent leather strap with silver colored lining. Inspired by the world of science fiction, space and time travel, Chanel’s Watchmaking Creation studio imagines the Chanel Interstellar capsule collection in 2023. Pixelated pattern, printed circuit, games of phosphorescence, star-shaped charm and 3D robot, Chanel presents new interpretations of Boy.Friend watches. Exclusive creations, including Haute Horlogerie pieces, in limited editions.

ZELOS Hands 300 m GMT Malachite

This limited edition of the Mako GMT with the unique malachite dial was born from the collective suggestions of our Facebook group, Zelos Timekeepers. It was first launched only for group members, but now we are opening orders to the public. Malachite Green Mineral Dial with Polished Green Ceramic Bezel: Each dial will have a unique pattern.

Editorial coordination: Eyquem Pons


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