REPERAGES #236-2023 (free access) Seven watches that do not lack audacity, in classicism as in sport chic

2023-10-24 05:15:00

GARMIN Marq Commander Carbon Edition

Garmin announces the launch of the Marq Carbon collection, three exceptional connected watches, each machined from a block of Fused Carbon Fiber made from 130 layers of manually arranged carbon sheets. The Marq Carbon collection, consisting of the Marq Athlete, Marq Golfer and Marq Commander, features an ultra-bright Amoled touchscreen and a curved sapphire crystal glass. Each model incorporates unique features, high-end materials and benefits from a battery life of up to 16 days. “For years, Marq has been synonymous with exceptional smartwatches with authentic design. We are excited to preserve this heritage with this new Marq Carbon collection. It stands out for its elegant design thanks to its luxurious carbon fiber casing. It also integrates a set of the most advanced connected functions, to support all enthusiasts in their adventures. » – Dan Bartel, Vice President of Worldwide Customer Sales at Garmin. Ultra-light, the Marq Carbon collection highlights Garmin’s passion with unique know-how by introducing a premium material to the industry: fused carbon. Each watch features a 46mm case and bezel, machined from a block of Fused Carbon Fiber. Made up of 130 layers of carbon sheets, this new model requires around fifty days to design and more than 60 manufacturing steps. To create the watch, each layer of carbon is rotated at a unique angle to increase the strength of the initial block. The block is then subjected to a combination of heat and pressure to align with the shape of the watch case. Several hours of machining using precise diamond cutting tools results in a remarkable surface featuring a beautiful spiral pattern unique to each watch, both robust and lightweight. Combining luxury and performance, the Marq Carbon collection is adorned with high-end straps, whether in perforated FKM leather, jacquard-woven nylon or high-end rubber. Each bracelet is meticulously designed to meet the specific needs of each user. Its 16-day battery life makes it the ideal companion for the most extreme adventures. And thanks to the innovative magnetic charger, the watch fully charges in less than an hour.

Designed for all missions, the MARQ Commander – Carbon Edition features a discreet design and features dedicated to tactical operations. Intended for use day or night, the Marq Commander allows you to switch between modes on a screen that can be read with night vision goggles. Stealth mode disables GPS location recording and sharing, as well as wireless connections and communications, while still allowing use of the watch. If safety becomes an issue, the watch’s Emergency Stop feature deletes all of the watch’s memory. Additionally, two position formats allow two coordinate systems to be displayed simultaneously on a single screen. The jumpmaster function is also available.

MORITZ GROSSMANN Tefnut

The Tefnut model incorporates all the classic virtues of the Moritz Grossmann manufacture : a simple design that embodies pure sobriety, combined with high-quality, hand-finished materials. Besides, every detail, no matter how small, is absolutely perfect. The Tefnut line model now has a completely new look: with its friction hand silver dial, the new friction hand silver Tefnut exudes a confident and elegant presence. All watches produced by the Moritz Grossmann factory in Glashütte have one thing in common: they fascinate from every angle. Whether it’s the “face” of the watch – the dial with the hands – or the movement, the German watch brand’s high quality standards and original keen eye for detail are evident at every turn. The friction silver Tefnut, selected to be the new basic model of the Tefnut line, proves this once again. It is its dial that gives this new product a particular shine, illustrated by a simple and reduced style, with a touch of elegance. The manual-winding caliber 102.1: a mechanism with perfect aesthetics. The tried-and-tested Caliber 102.1 measures just four millimeters high with a diameter of 26 millimeters and works its magic inside the hand-silvered TEFNUT, lending its elegance to the case. Its carefully studied architecture is associated with all the typical characteristics of a Grossmann caliber. The hand-wound movement is a classic pillar movement consisting of a main plate and a 3/5 plate. The stepped balance cock with Grossmann micrometer screw and the raised chatons are typical elements. The construction and sophisticated finish are typical of the Glashütte watch manufacture: the plates bear the distinctive Glashütte ribs, while the brand name is hand-engraved in block capitals. The balance cock is also hand-engraved with a fine floral motif. Another characteristic element are the white sapphires as jewels, set in gold settings and held in place with purple-brown screws.

VERSACE Medusa Deco

The 3D Medusa floats between two glasses in a new feminine collection with a profiled case and a Greca motif top ring. The 3D Medusa head floating between two lenses, first appeared in the Spring-Summer 2022 collection, is integrated into the new Medusa Deco collection. Decorative elements include the Greca pattern on the top ring and the guilloché dial. The innovative shape of the case (38 mm in diameter, housing a Swiss Made movement) is echoed in the faceted crown. The Medusa Deco is available in Versace boutiques, authorized retailers and on versace.com.

SEIKO Prospex Speedtimer « Authentic Green »

The Prospex Speedtimer collection welcomes an animated solar chronograph by caliber V192. The shape of the case is inspired by the 1964 original, with a new diameter of 39mm. Its green dial with a sandblasted finish guarantees great readability, an essential characteristic of Prospex watches.

GORILLA Outlaw Drift Special

The Outlaw Drift Special is a limited edition series that explores the richness of design of the extraordinary complication of the wandering hour. The wandering hour complication is a technical marvel that glides from one hour to the next with grace and precision, demonstrating our company’s commitment to innovation. The minimalist, dynamic surfaces and the perfectly integrated hybrid strap elegantly move away from the more intense Fastback design and match the smooth body panels of the ultimate German sports cars, from which the Outlaw was expressly inspired. A stunning alternation of brushed and polished surface variants on the grade 5 titanium case makes this watch a work of art. The Outlaw Drift Special embodies the Outlaws automotive philosophy by combining technical precision and unadulterated style. Limited edition of 250 pieces.

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CZAPEK Quai des Bergues 40.5 mm

Czapek presents a brand new iteration of the historic Quai des Bergues collection, now available in a 40.5 mm steel case, and with a brand new hand-guilloché pattern on the dial. One size never really fits all – With this in mind, Czapek is offering a version of the Quai des Bergues line in a new 40.5mm case. This steel case retains all the stylistic signatures of the initial collection – with a slight refinement of the recesses in the sides of the case in order to integrate the movement – ​​and a subtle modification of the inclination of the lugs to ensure a perfect fit on the wrist . “The two existing sizes of the Quai des Bergues model (38.5 and 42.5 mm) have always been well received,” says Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek. But, within our community of enthusiasts, we’ve had lots of feedback and discussion about creating the perfect in-between – stylish versatility with a remarkable presence on any size wrist. The design of this case is very organic and fluid – and for that, I pay homage to the biomechanical style of the artist HRGiger [concepteur d’Alien] whose work has always fascinated me. » To complete this new size, Czapek has developed, in collaboration with its partner, the dial maker Metalem, a brand new guilloché pattern. Named Guilloché “Double Sun”, after the phenomenon of the parhelion, an optical illusion which appears in certain atmospheric conditions as a luminous spot on one side or both sides of the sun. Colloquially called “false sun”, “double sun”, “goat’s eye” or “sun dogs”, parhelions occur when the sun shines through thin cirrus clouds composed of hexagonal ice crystals, which refract the rays, at like a prism. This is a spectacular and rare phenomenon occurring most often in winter, when the sun is low in the sky.

The starting point for this new pattern was a discussion on Ricochet guilloche, exclusive to Maison Czapek. Through a process of iteration, which places greater emphasis on vertical symmetry and straighter, deeper cuts, the new ‘Double Soleil’ pattern presents a look that is both bold and contemporary. We will then notice an intriguing visual artifice: do the lines radiate outwards like rays of sunlight behind the sub-dials or are they drawn inwards? In terms of color, this dial, made from the now famous “Secret Alloy” alloy (composed of 50% of a mixture of gold, platinum, palladium and silver) is available in a choice of deep blue (Deep Blue). , or chic black (Tuxedo Black). In addition to this new guilloche pattern, these two models feature the SXH1 movement with manual winding and a seven-day power reserve. “We reworked the movement last year by opening the bridges, increasing the depth of the chamfering and using half-glaze rubies,” explains Xavier de Roquemaurel. Like the new guilloché pattern on the dial, it is part of our desire to always show the beauty of craftsmanship – honoring the hand of man – which is the essence of fine watchmaking and reveals more than time.”

SINN 910 SRS

The column wheel chronograph with flyback function : with the 910 SRS model, we have given birth to a particularly aesthetic watch which is also distinguished by true watchmaking finesse. The stop function is also equipped with an SRS chronograph circuit (Stop-Rückstellung-Start = flyback) which at the same time triggers the stopping of a measurement in progress, resets the hand to zero and starts a new measurement as soon as when you press the pusher located at 4 o’clock. The stop-second hand resets to zero by pressing the press once and a new measurement is immediately started. We then benefit from precise measurement to the nearest second of consecutive time intervals. This function is traditionally called “Flyback”, literally “in-flight reset”. On this watch, time stops thanks to a traditional column wheel chronograph. This column wheel chronograph is an ambitious artisanal compilation whose tradition dates back to the mid-19th century. At that time, the column wheel was the most important part of traditional chronographs. Such a compilation requires a lot of work and editing requires both precision and extreme care. Since the column wheel controls both the start and stop and return functions, it is subject to high demands. The greatest possible resistance to wear is required in order to maintain, for example, the flexibility of handling pushers. Raised bar indexes and brilliant chamfers on the numeral circles, in perfect harmony with the polished glass, underline the great aesthetic value of this instrument. Additionally, the 910 SRS features a refined mechanism that can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback.

EDITORIAL COORDINATION: EYQUEM PONS

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