2023-09-29 05:01:01
When talent expands and produces diverse creations on the ground, the name “comprehensive artist” can be given to its owner. This applies to the young Emirati woman, Rawda Salem Thani, who entered the field of fashion design through the portal of architecture and fine art. Rawda, who has reached the age of thirty, studied interior architecture, design, and visual arts. She was previously known as a visual artist and architectural designer. She also works in the marketing department at the Dubai Future Foundation. With all of the above, she launched her brand “Illi” in 2021, following 3 months. After quarantine, her first collection of designs was completely sold out 4 hours following it was launched on Instagram, which is something she did not expect at all. In this interview, we learn more regarding this talented young woman, and her designs of abayas and kaftans, full of colors and new cuts:
• What does “Illi” mean, and what regarding the designs of the inaugural collection 3 years ago?
Usually, I get inspiration for each collection from a specific thing. As for the name “Illi,” it means my daughter in the Moroccan Amazigh language. My mother is Moroccan, and my father is Emirati, so I named her “Illi,” meaning my daughter and the most precious thing I have. All my designs are personal, and their colors were inspired by the Moroccan colors common in Morocco, such as: blue and fuchsia. 3 years ago, in all photo sessions, one of the models must wear the heart chain, in which I put a picture of my parents. I even named the designs following my friends’ names, as they express their favorite style and colors. I would also like, in the near future, to create a Moroccan design collection and photograph it in Tangier, my mother’s hometown.
• What is the secret of your transition from drawing on canvas to fabrics?
– During my university studies, I was designing dresses for my own brand, but I stopped due to the pressure of studying. I was always certain that at some point in my life I would become a fashion designer. My father felt my talent for design and encouraged me to enter this field, and this happened at the right time.
Unique touches
• Every brand has something that distinguishes it.. What is unique regarding “Illi”?
– I seek to provide what is not available in the market, for young women who want to express themselves through their clothes. I put colors and cuts in the abayas. For example, we have a full abaya that is fuchsia or pink. Wearing an abaya does not mean that you cannot wear a wonderful color, or a glimpse of a popular trend, such as jackets with buttons, etc., and this is what distinguishes my brand from others. I try to include everything that we want to wear, and usually wear under the abaya, and make it the abaya itself. This is why young women love the “brand.” Because they feel – when they wear our designs – that they are wearing the trend, which they see on Instagram, or TV in an abaya version. In short, I loved providing something that would encourage people to wear the sheila and abaya.
• You launched the “brand” during the “pandemic”… What challenges and obstacles did you face?
– When I started, it was difficult to find a factory that would give me the results I wanted, at reasonable prices, and in a reasonable time. There are factories in Dubai that require 4 months; To finish the production process of the collection, and this is what I cannot do, especially since my pieces are designed according to request. Customers cannot wait 4 months to get a specific design, and it was difficult for me during the manufacturing process to control quality. However, when I had my own team of craftsmen and tailors in our “Dear All” workshop in Al Quoz, I began making my own designs, and the designs of my local friends, and guiding them to where sustainable fabrics are, how to produce at the lowest cost, and come up with something that is biodegradable and does not harm the environment. From here, I started working with friends, and whoever heard regarding me would come asking to produce their collections, and the circle expanded; Because the factory is well managed, you can work closely with the work team. I love seeing designers there, and it builds a beautiful community.
• How many collections have you designed so far?
So far, I have designed 10 collections, and each collection ranges between 8 and 23 designs.
• Your brand is known to be sustainable.. How do you approach it?
– I do not claim 100% sustainability, as this is impossible, but we try – as much as possible – to be sustainable, through the sources of the fabrics, and the type of dyes that are used in them. Most of the fabrics we come from ethical sources from Korean and Japanese suppliers, and this means that their factories are free of workers. Children, although their price is slightly more expensive than regular fabrics; It is worth it, as the dyes used are disposed of in a way that does not harm the environment. Many people who make fabrics dispose of dyes in water, and dyes cannot be diluted in water, because they cause contamination. My suppliers from Korea and Japan are keen to source sustainable fabrics. Secondly, we do not have a dead reserve of fabrics, because we import fabrics in quantities that we know we will sell, and when the pieces are sold, we bring more fabrics for production; We have nothing to throw away, our designs are made to order.
• Do you consider selling your first collection within 4 hours to be a distinguishing mark for the “brand”?
– I feel that I have presented something new. When I talk to other female designers, they tell me that you have opened a door for us to see abayas in a different way, because I have presented something new and bold. There are young women who tell me: We started our brand following you encouraged us. I didn’t expect that, because I work full time, and launching the label was a hobby.
Continuous giving
• What motivates you to give momentum in the job and in your brand?
– I work in the marketing department at the Dubai Future Foundation, from eight to four in the followingnoon, and at “Illi” from four to eight in the evening. I love everything I do through the “brand,” and coming up with new ideas, concepts, and designs. I love seeing young women I don’t know wearing my designs when I go out, as that makes me extremely happy, and I believe that this is my main motivation.
• What are your dreams and future goals?
– I would like to expand into designing haute couture dresses; Couture designs are an art in themselves, and I consider couture designers to be artists. Couture tailors can skillfully fold fabrics, build a corset, embroidery with beads, etc. All of this is a wonderful art for me, so I aspire to make couture and create artistic pieces in the form of dresses.
• Who do you like among couture designers?
– I like Hamda Al-Fahim; She is a very talented designer, and her latest collection is beyond amazing. I also love Chanel’s high-end designs, which are meticulous in their details. I love Jean Paul Gaultier and his corsets, which he designs in a very easy way.
• To what extent does the Moroccan touch enter into your designs?
– I made Moroccan designs: jalabiyas, kaftans and abayas, including Moroccan work. I always like to introduce the Moroccan touch. I work with craftsmen in Morocco for this.
• As a successful designer and artist, what do you say on the occasion of Emirati Women’s Day?
– I feel that the Emirates is a place that fulfills dreams, and nothing is impossible there. Our leaders have made laws and decisions available to us, which facilitate the realization of our dreams. There is full and permanent support, so everything is easy to launch any project. There is a platform for everything, and great support for the creative sector, for artists and craftsmen. We have advisors and bodies in government that facilitate the pursuit of passion. For example, they established a law allowing a sabbatical year (paid leave to start your own project and realize your dream), and this does not happen anywhere else in the world.
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