Beaujolais is for many synonymous with good food. Its proximity to Lyon makes it a historical and privileged partner of traditional Lyonnais corks.
This master class had the dual aim of illustrating the pairings between local dishes and Beaujolais cuvées, sometimes on originality, sometimes on tradition, as well as illustrating the work of winegrowers and appellations on the identification of plots with marked identities within the crus.
Hosted by Mathieu Doumenge, senior reporter for Terre de Vins, with explanations from Nathalie Chuzeville, director of the ODG des crus du Beaujolais, and the combined talents of Florence and her son Maxime Périer, head of the Painter’s Cafewho concocted the appetizers, the audience was able to experiment and comment on the different wines and pairings with the tasting comments of Laurent Derhé, best worker sommelier in France.
Rabbit terrine with prunes and Côte de Brouilly
This is the Brulhié cuvée from Domaine Ruet in 2019 which opened the ball, accompanied by the rabbit terrine with prunes.
This appellation whose geological signature is the presence of blue stones, witnesses of ancient volcanic activity, has many localities including Brulhié, and the harmony between this cuvée and the terrine works wonderfully. The tension slices through the fatness of the terrine and the sweetness of the prune, whose delicacy will echo back to the silky tannins and delicate aromas of graphite and peony.
Goujonnette of carp, vinaigrette with red wine and Régnié
The latest of the crus, which has just celebrated its 40th anniversary, has the particularity of being composed almost 100% of granite soils, and is located between 250 and 400 meters above sea level. The agreement was voluntarily made between fish and red wine, which get along very well when the cuvée has a good level of acidity, enhancing the iodized flavors.
According to Maxime Périer, this recipe and this pairing with the “Crêt d’Oeillat” cuvée from Guillaume Striffling in 2019 were his “ biggest risk of the day », the carp not always being sufficiently appreciated, as well as the red wine and fish pairings. Bet won.
Lentil, sabodet and Moulin-à-Vent salad
With the roasted sabodet to give it crispness, its pronounced taste and the lentil salad perfectly seasoned with sherry vinegar, we needed a wine with character, but which knew how to remain supple.
Perfect combination with the Moulin-à-Vent 2020 of The Nest house, which offers yet another expression of gamay, more fleshy, more concentrated, with aromas of black fruits rather than red fruits, whose more marked tannins make it possible to stand up to sabodet, and the welcome acidity of the lentil seasoning resonates with that of the Moulin-à-Vent, amplified by its freshness.
Financier with sour cherry and Morgon
Another original pairing intended to highlight both the many possibilities of pairing food and wine, and the characteristics of the Côte du Py. As Maxime Périer reminds us, it is sometimes said of Morgon wines that they ” morning meaning that they develop those typical aromas of cherry, kirsch and morello cherries. Marriage agreement therefore with this financier for the aromatic, while playing on the opposition between the tension of the Gamay and the sweetness of the financier which complement each other to better balance each other. This particularly successful agreement punctuates an interactive and enriching master class, the last of this edition of Lyon Tasting 2022.
Photos ©A. Birds