2024-01-15 20:49:01
The “king” of Italian fashion, Giorgio Armani, 89, unveiled on Monday in Milan a men’s fall-winter 2024/2025 collection combining refinement and nonchalance, marked by fluid cuts and supple lines.
Under the blue eye of the maestro, reproduced in a gigantic moon dominating the catwalk, the models stroll in the intimate setting of the historic headquarters on via Borgonuovo, the antipodes of fashion-spectacle.
“Men’s fashion should not be an object of desire at all costs, it should be a nice suit, a nice jacket, a nice fabric, a nice color and nothing more, because otherwise we risk having a carnival,” he said. commented the designer.
Faithful to its casual chic DNA, Giorgio Armani opted for loose but refined pants, and mid-length coats worn open which promote freedom of movement.
For next winter, the volumes have been increased, “to give even more ease and fluidity” to the clothes in the collection, explains Giorgio Armani.
The deconstructed jacket, without shoulder pads and unlined, the brand’s emblem, has been declined endlessly: dandy style, it goes with the essential vest and pleated pants. Sports version, it is worn over cargo pants slipped into boots.
The couturier’s eternal puzzle consists of “doing the usual in an unusual way”, he confided following the show, on the fourth day of Men’s Fashion Week.
The master thus gives himself a few little offbeat touches: a large leather coat lined with faux leopard fur or a strict suit matched with a somewhat puffy tie.
But the tie is very discreet in the fashion show, it is thin, black or gray, hidden under a blazer and often replaced by a scarf.
“The tie depends on the occasion, we make it worn by the man who goes to the office, with respect for this office, because I hope he does not go in a t-shirt to an important meeting”, quipped Giorgio Armani.
Black and gray are omnipresent, combined as desired with greige, green, but also pink, light blue and dark blue.
Giorgio Armani presented on Saturday the new collection of his Emporio line, high-end ready-to-wear aimed at a trendy clientele, inspired by the marine world and focused on adventure and daring.
Zegna’s “cashmere oasis”
Fluidity of cuts and effortless elegance are also the mantra of Zegna’s fashion show, which transformed a huge hangar of an exhibition center on the outskirts of Milan into a “cashmere oasis” for the occasion.
The models parade all around an orange mountain of cashmere planted in the center of the catwalk and fed by a rain of snowflakes, illustrating the common thread of this collection focused on comfort and durability.
“It’s a collection for collectors. I hope that these clothes will be bought by people who will collect them and wear them for a very long time,” commented the brand’s artistic director, Alessandro Sartori.
Pleated pants are loose, to be combined with turtleneck sweaters or short jackets in the same fabric, flowing coats are worn away from the body so as not to hinder freedom of movement. The lapels of the jackets are detachable.
The stylist left nothing to chance, carefully studying the smallest details to adapt the clothes to the needs of the Zegna man. Thus, the pockets of pants and coats are lowered “to allow your hands to slide in easily,” he says.
The palette of colors ranges from the omnipresent olive green to royal blue, including off-white, beige and gray.
Milan Fashion Week ends on Tuesday with digital presentations before this little world moves to Paris, for men’s fashion then the haute couture shows.
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