ARNOLD & SON Luna Magna « Year of the Dragon »
A prosperous and temperate year in the traditional Chinese calendar 2024 is represented by Arnold & Son as the year of a majestic dragon and craftsmanship. Fine watchmaking, miniature sculpture, and stonework comprise the two versions of the Luna Magna Red Gold “Year of the Dragon”. Each version has eight pieces, illustrating the encounter of a dragon with the moon.
DAGGER Time Dragon
For The Dague, we aimed to design a dial that is modern, classic, and innovative—a design that withstands the test of time and shifting trends. We developed a modular two-part dial, providing a canvas for various intriguing variations that create a timepiece blending artistic flair with mechanical precision. Our cloisonné dial features a solid gold plate that hosts the enamel component. The cloisonné work was meticulously crafted by Ms. Vanessa Lecci, an experienced professional, based on our design. During our discussions in her Peseux workshop, we shared the details of our Time Dragon, inviting her to incorporate her interpretation, sensitivity, and expertise. She chose to use gold wires of varying thicknesses, from 0.06 mm to 0.08 mm, with the thicker wires highlighting specific design elements, such as the head and snout. Vanessa suggested incorporating some of her rare century-old enamels, including the now-unobtainable Schauer Royal Red used for the dragon’s body. This is the kind of watchmaking we cherish and pursue. This dagger timepiece transcends mere timekeeping; it becomes a valuable object that tells a story. Each piece is unique, ensuring its singularity and reflecting a respect for extraordinary craftsmanship. The outcome is stunning, prompting us to ask Vanessa to sign her work. Her signature, hand-engraved on the edge of the enamel plaque, is an honor for us.
GARRICK SN1 Nudfa 10 Ten Labs
The 2023 Nudfa Edition is the third series of collaboration in a limited edition produced by Garrick Watchmakers and 10tenlabs. This timepiece draws inspiration from ice and snow and is based on Garrick’s highly acclaimed S6 model. The Nudfa S6 edition employs a revolutionary approach to design and manufacturing, adding depth to the timepiece. Many components are created and finished in-house, and each watch is regulated to +5 seconds. The snowflake dial is hand-engraved, making each watch truly one-of-a-kind. The dial is turned from brass on a traditional lathe, then hand-engraved using a flat-blade tool to create the distinctive snowflake effect, unique to each dial and impossible to replicate. A colored lacquer is applied to the completed dial. The heavily modified ETA caliber features a uniquely textured gear train bridge, along with a skeleton balance cock, swan-neck regulator, and a uniquely engraved barrel and crown cover. The hand-crafted polished steel Lancine hands are also made in-house. The result is an admirable limited edition of 10 pieces in Ice White and 2 pieces in Ice Blue.
ANDERSEN GENEVA Jumping hours black jade dial
Platinum, rose gold, and jade represent elegance and refinement. The hour is displayed in an aperture at 12 o’clock, while the minutes appear on a sub-dial at 6 o’clock. This model features a black jade dial, 0.40 mm thick, as part of the Heures Shautantes collection. The minute track and the logo are rendered in powdered rose gold. In 2024, Andersen Genève will once again release a limited edition of 50 pieces designed to delight collectors worldwide, titled “L’ Heures Shautantes – black jade dial.” This year, Andersen Genève presents an exceptional version of the famous Jumping Hours introduced in 2020 to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary. This is Andersen Genève’s latest interpretation of the jumping hour complication, where the hour displayed in an aperture changes every hour, while the minutes are indicated by a hand on a counter at the bottom of the dial. This complication is appreciated for its minimalist elegance and the emphasis it places on the dial itself. The concept of jumping hours holds special significance for Andersen Genève, having first created such a display for a collector in 1995, complete with a minute repeater. Subsequently, they developed the “Jour & Nuit” watch, which ingeniously indicates day and night hours with a “jumping” 24-hour hand. In 1998, Cartier commissioned Andersen Genève to create 125 “Jour et Nuit” watches for their “Pasha” collection. Recently, the Atelier has elevated the jumping hours complication, combining sophisticated manufacturing with high-quality traditional craftsmanship: this timepiece was crafted by watchmaking artists, guillocheurs, and polishers, among others.
Andersen Geneva presents a new extraordinarily refined interpretation of the classic Jumping Hours complication. This new version combines a hand-finished platinum case with a black jade dial. The subtle combination results in a watch of exceptional beauty, elegance, and simplicity. This Jumping Hours features a platinum case with a rose gold crown and a black jade dial delicately cut to a thickness of just 0.4 mm and perfectly flat. Achieving this requires incredible skill to prevent breakage; above the hour wheel, the dial is only 0.15 mm thick. From a distance, the dial appears as a deep and alluring black, creating a rich contrast with the minute hand, the railway track, and the brand logo in powdered rose gold. Upon closer inspection, the veins and details of the stone become visible. Each stone is unique, making each dial so as well. This watch illustrates both the elegance and artisanal qualities of Heures Saultes in the most minimalist yet captivating manner. The case itself necessitates various machining and crafting techniques for the most flawless finish. The sides are satin-finished, while the bezel is mirror-polished. The lugs are crafted separately, meticulously polished, and welded to the case. The back of the watch is equally artistic: through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement and its intricate decorations are visible, featuring delicate hand-chamfering, Côtes de Genève, polished-block (mirror) screws, and an 18ct rose gold oscillating weight with hand-guilloché (full plate) adorned with a “grains d’orges” motif. A small detail: the Andersen Genève logo, the “A,” has been added on a small plate on the bridge (the “A” in pink) and is secured with a blued steel screw! Surrounding the movement, a 21ct blue gold ring is hand-engraved with the watch number “x/50” and “Andersen Genève.” Blue gold is a characteristic material of Andersen, exclusively used in watchmaking. To create this incredibly rare material, 24ct gold is heated with iron elements in a furnace. The reaction produces a range of blue hues on the surface, which can be light blue, dark blue, purple, or even “champagne” colored. Thanks to this artisanal process, no ring around the movement exits the furnace with the same color, making each piece unique. The watch is powered by the Frédéric Piguet 11.50 movement, an exceptional Swiss caliber. Its ultra-flat dimensions make it an ideal support for the jumping hour mechanism developed and assembled in-house by Andersen Genève, while its two-barrel architecture provides a long power reserve of up to 72 hours.
LOUIS VUITTON Escale Cabinet of Wonders Snake’s Jungle
From the Escale Cabinet of Wonders collection trilogy, the Snake’s Jungle watch honors the technical mastery of artistic crafts. This limited edition comprises 20 pieces and draws inspiration from Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s personal Tsubas collections and his passion for Japan. Crafted in marquetry by Rose Saneuil, the lush bamboo forest comprises 367 separate elements, utilizing four varieties of wood, three colors of straw, and two types of parchment, all meticulously selected, cut, and hand-assembled. The snake incorporates three exceptionally delicate processes: micro-sculpture and engraving by Eddy Jaquet, coupled with champlevé enameling by Vanessa Lecci. The depth and movement effect of the animal arise from the rings of its white gold body, sculpted precisely according to perspective laws. Its scales were hollowed out and intricately adorned with “V”s and Monogram flowers. The material removed with precision during the sculpting and engraving phases optimized the space for champlevé enamel. Additionally, bamboo leaves are sculpted, engraved, and enameled using the same artisanal techniques, emerging from the upper right part of the dial and directing attention to the Gaston-Louis Vuitton monogram—a coat of arms crafted in gold and nephrite jade that appears to float effortlessly. This verdant vegetation extends beyond the dial, enveloping the case, also crafted in white gold. The design perpetuates the travel spirit beloved by Louis Vuitton, featuring buckles and middles decorated with three variations of Seigaiha waves, a stylized representation of the ocean rooted in traditional Japanese iconography. This talismanic motif, symbolizing luck and well-being, is also found on the chronometer-certified LFT023 movement bridges. The same meticulous art is reflected in the calfskin strap, hand-woven to emulate the texture of Japanese katana guards—achieved through a technique specially developed for the collection. The Geneva Haute Horlogerie workshop of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton orchestrated the merging of the Maison’s expertise with that of independent artists responsible for the timepieces’ decoration. This dual approach aims to blend the highest level of watchmaking excellence, elevating the Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders line to new heights of creativity and technical mastery.
CHOPARD L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Year of the Dragon
A technical feat presented for the first time to commemorate the 25th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture, the LUC 98.06-L jumping hour movement powers a new exclusive edition of the LUC Quattro Spirit 25, inspired by the symbolism of the year of the dragon. This limited series comprises 8 pieces, with its craftsmanship certified by the Hallmark of Geneva. The 40-millimeter 18-carat rose gold case houses a gold dial hand-engraved with a majestic dragon motif. With four barrels featuring Chopard’s Quattro technology, this timepiece offers up to eight days of power reserve, making it a rarity in the jumping hour watch category with such autonomy.
ANDRÉ MARTINEZ Requiem
A 42mm diameter white gold watch, fully designed by André Martinez, identifiable by its six-sided bezel. The automatic Swiss movement is fitted with an 18k gold oscillating weight. The genuine mother-of-pearl dial is entirely hand-painted by André Martinez. The Gorilla, lightly draped in foliage, symbolizes his power and authority. His gaze appears to fixate on a specific point. The painting incorporates 18k gold powder mixed with the paint to produce a unique effect, making this dial a unique piece. The watch is accompanied by a Swiss rubber strap with an 18k gold pin.
EDITORIAL COORDINATION: JACQUES PONS
ARNOLD & SON Luna Magna « Year of the Dragon »
A prosperous and temperate year in the traditional Chinese calendar 2024 is a significant period for Arnold & Son, as it introduces the Luna Magna collection embodying the majestic dragon and exquisite craftsmanship. This limited edition features two versions of the Luna Magna in Red Gold, with only eight pieces each, showcasing the captivating union of a dragon and the moon.
DAGGER Time Dragon
For The Dague, we aimed to create a dial that seamlessly marries modern design with classical aesthetics. Our modular two-part dial offers a versatile canvas for artistic variations, resulting in a timepiece that harmonizes artistic expression with mechanical precision. Crafted by Ms. Vanessa Lecci, the cloisonné dial features a solid gold base housing its enamel counterpart.
Utilizing century-old enamels like the rare Schauer Royal Red, this piece showcases a profound commitment to watchmaking artistry. The intricate gold wires, meticulously placed, emphasize the dragon’s defining attributes, culminating in a unique collector’s item where each watch tells a different story. Signed by Vanessa, this watch transcends its role as a timepiece, becoming a narrative of craftsmanship.
GARRICK SN1 Nudfa 10 Ten Labs
The 2023 Nudfa Edition marks the third collaboration between Garrick Watchmakers and 10tenlabs, showcasing a timepiece inspired by the elegance of ice and snow. This limited edition is built upon Garrick’s highly acclaimed S6 model, emphasizing in-house artistry and innovation.
- Hand-engraved snowflake dials for unique character.
- Traditional brass turned dials finished with colored lacquer.
- Limited to just 10 pieces in Ice White and 2 in Ice Blue.
The modified ETA calibre in this timepiece boasts a uniquely textured gear train, polished steel hands, and a remarkable design that resonates with nature’s beauty.
ANDERSEN GENEVA Jumping Hours Black Jade Dial
Platinum, rose gold, and jade redefine luxury in this limited edition of 50 pieces from Andersen Genève. The timepiece features a striking black jade dial indicating hours and minutes with unparalleled elegance.
The craftsmanship involved in creating a 0.40 mm thick jade dial elevates this watch, with every minute detail signifying uniqueness. Celebrated for its minimalist elegance, the Jumping Hours complication aligns perfectly with the artistry present in each piece manufactured by Andersen Genève.
LOUIS VUITTON Escale Cabinet of Wonders Snake’s Jungle
Celebrating craftsmanship in the Escale Cabinet of Wonders collection, this limited edition of 20 pieces is inspired by the art of marquetry and Japanese aesthetics. The watch features a verdant bamboo forest formed by 367 individual elements, showcasing meticulous attention to detail.
Designed by Rose Saneuil, along with the intricate detailing of the snake by Eddy Jaquet and Vanessa Lecci, this watch embodies the essence of technical virtuosity and artistic mastery. Its luxurious design extends beyond the dial into the strap and case, emphasizing the spirit of travel celebrated by Louis Vuitton.
CHOPARD L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Year of the Dragon
Commemorating 25 years of excellence, Chopard introduces the LUC Quattro Spirit 25, driven by the LUC 98.06-L jumping hour movement. This exclusive edition features a 40 mm 18-carat rose gold case adorned with a hand-engraved gold dial depicting a majestic dragon, symbolizing power and fortune.
Equipped with Chopard’s Quattro technology providing up to eight days of power reserve, this timepiece exemplifies innovation and luxury within horology.
ANDRÉ MARTINEZ Requiem
The Requiem by André Martinez is a 42mm white gold watch characterized by its distinctive 6-sided bezel. This unique timepiece features a fully hand-painted mother-of-pearl dial, showcasing a powerful imagery of a gorilla, blending artistry with horological precision.
With an automatic Swiss movement and an 18k gold oscillating weight, every detail reflects the labor-intensive artistry that defines André Martinez’s work. The watch features an elegant Swiss rubber strap, blending comfort with luxury.
EDITORIAL COORDINATION: JACQUES PONS