Döner kebab, which is made with thinly sliced meat that is grilled on a vertical spit, originated in Turkey, but has almost become a national dish in Germany after it was brought to the country by Turkish immigrants in the 60s.
In April, the International Döner Federation (Udofed) in Turkey applied to the European Commission to grant döner kebab protected status.
In order for the dish to be called döner kebab, Udofed will base a strict list of criteria, from the kind of meat and spices that can be used, to the thickness of the knife used.
Thus, the Turkish version of döner kebab would get the same so-called TSG status as Spanish serrano ham. Other well-known foods such as Parma ham, mozzarella and champagne have a different type of protection.
– Invented in Berlin
The Turkish application has triggered strong reactions in Germany. In Berlin, they believe the dish was invented there, and it has long since passed bratwurst as the most sought-after fast food.
Döner kebabs are sold in stalls and kiosks all over the city, often as a night snack for hungry bar guests, and in restaurants.
– It happened in Berlin. According to legend, Kadir Nurman was the first to put the meat in bread in 1972 and invented the version of döner that is so popular in Germany, says Berlin’s website.
– Döner belongs to Germany. Everyone must be able to decide for themselves how it should be prepared and eaten here. We don’t need guidelines from Ankara, says Agriculture Minister Cem Özdemir, who himself is of Turkish origin.
Protest filed
The Turkish application came as a big surprise in the German Ministry of Agriculture, and a protest has been lodged with the European Commission.
Among the strict criteria in the Turkish application is that the döner kebab must be made from beef, chicken or lamb.
– Here it is different. Our traditional recipe is with veal, says Birol Yagci, who is a chef at a Turkish restaurant in Berlin’s Kreuzberg district.
In Turkey, it is also common to eat döner on a plate, while in Germany it is served in a potato casserole with sauce.
– People all over the world eat döner. Turkey cannot just dictate what others should do, says Yagci as he stands in front of two skewers of meat, one with turkey, which would have been banned under Turkish demands.
#Kebab #dispute #Turkey #Germany
2024-07-28 05:28:07
