2023-10-21 01:02:07
I don’t remember the first oyster I shucked and ate. Growing up in south Louisiana meant oysters were everywhere — fried, baked, on the half shell and sold on the side of Airline Highway by the sack.
Chef Brant Tesky of Jones Oyster Co. in downtown Greenville clearly remembers shucking his first oyster.
“My home is in North Dakota, I grew up in Des Moines, Iowa, and somehow, I ended up cooking in Del Ray Beach, Florida, at this great seafood restaurant,” he said. “My chef taught me how to handle an oyster knife, how to hold them with a towel, the twist of the oyster knife and he was all regarding the details, so we had to flip the oysters over once they were shucked. He told us he didn’t want the shucked oysters looking like scrambled eggs, so flip them over.”
As he relayed that story, a dozen beautiful oystersplump in their jagged homes, shimmered on a bed of ice. Rappahannocks, Beau Soleils, Pemaquids, Rochambeaus and Belle du Jours. Served with an acidic mignonette and a sip of vinho verde, this was a superb start to a wonderful meal.
A young Tesky eventually found his way to Washington, D.C., where he became the chef de cuisine of Jeff Tunks’ Acadiana, a stalwart of south Louisiana cuisine in our nation’s capitol. No wonder the menu at Jones Oyster reads like somewhere on New Orleans’ Magazine Street. Shrimp Louis, oyster and shrimp po’boys, cheddar hush puppies, crab rice, and shrimp burgers have all found a home far from any salt water. The menu, the décor and the hospitable service all suit this small space along the nearby banks of the Reedy River.
“I’m happy I found this town,” Tesky said. “I love Greenville’s vibe, and we have a phenomenal team here. And I love that we have 43 seats. There’s an immediacy to the experience.”
A platter of char-grilled oysters on the half, fresh off the grill with a familiar south Louisiana topping of breadcrumbs, fresh herbs, Italian cheeses and whole butter was placed in front of me. Tesky grinned and asked how I liked them.
“They’re perfect,” I replied. “They taste just like Magazine Street.”
Jones Oyster Co., at 22 E. Court St., serves lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
“City Juice” is a colloquial term for a glass of tap water served at a diner. John Malik is a culinary adviser and broker with National Restaurant Properties. He can be reached at [email protected].
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