Japanese koi carp are in demand all over the world

2024-01-17 08:53:00

“We call them living art,” says Shigeyoshi Tanaka as he fishes through the water with a net. “It may be easier to find an Olympic athlete than the perfect one nishikigoione Japanese brocade carp.”

Collecting these colorful koi carp is becoming increasingly popular. The famous fish now swim in hundreds of thousands of ponds all over the world, including in the Netherlands. “We are selling more and more in Europe. Every year, dozens of people come to us specifically to choose their own fish,” Tanaka continues.

Carp are winning lottery tickets

High in the mountains in the snowy province of Niigata lies Tanaka’s Marujyu Nursery. A series of ponds pile up towards the mountain top. “Every year we release about 2.5 million fish here,” he explains. “Only 1 percent of that is sellable.” Tanaka learned the tricks of the trade from his father. He is now known for breeding what some enthusiasts consider the most beautiful fish in the world.

“If you look at the tail, you see that the rear red spot runs across the fin. That’s not nice. You prefer to have a centimeter between them,” says Stefan Koster, marine biologist and nishikigoi trader. He has been flying to Japan for years to find the best copies at Tanaka. Together they stand inspecting a breeding pond where dozens of fish swim around.

A net hangs through the middle of the pond. On one side, brightly colored carp the size of an adult cat float, and on the other side some smaller fish that fit in the palm of your hand frolic. “That’s our specialty,” says Tanaka, pointing to a white carp with a red circle on its forehead. “Exactly the Japanese flag,” he says, laughing. “The chance that you will get one of these is so immensely small. One in tens of millions,” Koster adds.

Hobbyists are the biggest customers

“Some cost a lot of money, it can amount to 35,000 euros,” Koster explains. Competitions are organized every year in which the most beautiful fish are presented. Koster can regularly be found as a jury member: “You have to take many unwritten rules into account. The colors must be sharp and must not extend far beyond the tail. If the forehead is too steep, that is a disadvantage.”

However, not everyone is that picky. “Most carp bred here go to hobbyists and garden centers. Then they might cost a few tens of euros, or two hundred euros if you have a nice one. It is a very accessible hobby,” Koster explains. “But if you really want a unique one, you have to come to Niigata and pick one out for yourself,” says Tanaka.

China blocks exports

This year, Japan started dumping cooling water from the Fukushima nuclear power plant. China immediately imposed export controls on seafood and fish products from the country. Although the discharges take place far away from Tanaka’s ponds, their nishikigoi is also on the list. “It’s an act of revenge,” says Shigeo Tanaka, Shigeyoshi’s father. It is a painful development for many breeders: about 20 percent of brocade carp are exported to China.

Growers therefore focus on Southeast Asia and the West. “We sell a lot in the US, but there are also more and more customers in countries such as France and Greece,” says Tanaka. The Netherlands is of growing importance in this regard. Japanese growers exported 2.3 million euros worth of nishikigoi to the Netherlands in 2022. An increase of more than 40 percent in ten years.

“I sell thousands of carp every year. The Dutch are real enthusiasts. This is because they are not only beautiful, but also strong: they can live for a long time in different climates,” Koster continues. “That is different from a tropical fish or a goldfish. I don’t think it’s surprising that they are becoming increasingly popular as pets.”