2023-07-30 21:16:00
In this globalized gastronomic and foodie world in which we live, where everything seems to have been investigated, experienced, tested and applauded, flooded by so many little girls or little girls with the pretense of being an influencer or who knows what cool thing, who has the ability to create a authentic, simple, innovative menu capable of generating much more than flavors?
Well, yes, here in Neuquén we find an exquisite duo that dares to do this. And they do very, very well with it.
I am talking regarding Silvina Rearte (36) and Leandro Silva (39), the entrepreneurs of “Ajo Negro”, a brand already established in these Patagonian parts.
They prepare some tremendous dishes with the successful intention that they are exquisite and promote a certain happiness (in the stomach, in the mind and in the soul).
All they resort to are culinary techniques such as the consistency of the ingredients and the products chosen make sense and unity.
A delight, in short.
Silvina and Leandro have been professional cooks for more than 17 years. She is also a technician in gastronomic business administration. The two tired and we were in charge of different kitchens in the area and worked in Córdoba, El Calafate, Spain and other countries in the past.
“We started with Ajo Negro in 2018, making bread, pastry and preserves for gastronomic and private events, along with our permanent jobs. But our first goal was always to have a food truck.
With the pandemic in 2020, we opened our networks and generated other types of weekly proposals that we distributed at home. It was then when people began to know us more and we generated links with clients. This was until the pandemic was lifted. At that very moment we started our workshop, which is part of our house. And it is where we make all our products”, they comment.
When the restrictions were lifted, they intervened with their food truck in different gastronomic fairs such as the Semilla gastronomic fair and the Yo Como festival, from the “Río Negro” publishing house.
At that time they also stood out for the alfajores they made, which were born in a pandemic and with 6 unusual varieties. Today they only continue with two of them. And with one of them, the one with white chocolate and blueberries, they won a bronze medal at the Alfajor World Cup in 2022. “This opened up new opportunities for us,” they recover.
“In the case of preserves, we might say that we follow the same line as with alfajores. They are somewhat peculiar preserves. For example: pickled pears, rosehip jam, caramelized apple, toasted sesame, spicy apple pickle, orange, carrot and calendula marmalade, among others”, Silvina highlights.
“Nothing makes us happier than an older person (like our grandparents) who likes our preserves or products because our roots are there, in classic flavors that find something sophisticated,” they say.
They admit that working as a couple has always been easy for them.
– Seriously, never an argument, an anger?
“No, because we have a vocation and the same objective. We complement each other, each one gives a focus to what we project, that is why we can always be in detail. Ideas abound in this team, what is difficult for us is deciding which one to stay with, ”says Leandro.
“In general we try to take care of everything between the two of us, all kinds of decisions are made together. But there are some marked tasks that each one has. For example, Lea deals more with customer relations and generating links and I more with operations. We do the logistics, the organization, the preparation of budgets and other tasks together, says Silvina.
-How would you define the cooking you do?
-We don’t like to define our kitchen as something stable… our slogan says “kitchen in motion”. We like to mutate, playing with different things. We always look for the surprise not only with the proposal but with the colors, textures and flavors. We use characteristic products of the region and the season of the year, say both.
And they add: “for us the added value is the preparation from “0”, making from the bread to the dressings, decorations and details. We rely a lot on producers, we create links with suppliers that highlight their products within Patagonian gastronomy. The exceptions or rather adaptations are in mass events where we adapt to people’s consumption, without neglecting our imprint. A clear example was the Fiesta de la Confluencia in which in 2022 we had a mention as the best gastronomic car”.
At the food truck, his goal from the beginning and for personal taste was always to have burgers and vegan options. Homemade, real and genuine options. “Hamburgers in the best of their states, with good bread, good dressing, a good supplier of meat… in short: good ingredients. From the very different to the American classics”, they express.
“It’s a challenge for us every time we put together a menu. In the case of the proposals for the food truck we offer simple products with our twist of thread. The challenge is to tempt people to try it and that is happening little by little. People are trusting more and more that all those flavors that we propose can be combined into something wonderful. It was something that cost us ”, they argue.
Example of this? “We have made goat txistorra (sausage of Basque origin) with spicy apple pickle and orange and ginger dressing. Lamb burger (mint and lime flavored), with muzza, pickled aubergine and black beans, cilantro and lemon dressing, with activated charcoal bun. Ok, she understood.
Silvina and Leandro shared this creative process weeks ago at the Emilio Saraco Hall in the capital of Neuquén in a meeting that they titled “The non-prescription book”.
“The talk had to do with the research, experience and intuition that we both have as chefs. All the above that happens before carrying out a recipe and the adaptations to achieve new products. There we focus on telling our way of creating, from experience, study and knowledge of the raw material. We put research above all things. New trends in food are a constant challenge. We believe that the genuine and the original are the basis of good gastronomy. Always reflecting our imprint. To create a new recipe above all else, he has to convince us, it may sound a bit arrogant, but the truth is that if something doesn’t come to us, we don’t do it”, they share.
-What products are never lacking?
– Those from the area and those from the season… a good olive oil from here, sea salt flakes from Chubut, stone fruits in summer, pears and apples at this time… that is what we always prefer to use and take advantage of. Because that is what it is regarding knowing what is ours and spreading it. Show that there are other ways to present, manipulate and cook.
– How do you see regional gastronomy?
– It is becoming more popular, all chefs are playing a fundamental role in making it happen. Hard work is being done to ensure that gastronomic products have more visibility at the national level. Thanks to all this that is happening, Argentine gastronomy is increasingly federal. Our grain of sand is the perseverance we have to offer quality products using raw materials from the region and respecting the seasonality. Above the food truck we try to transmit professionalism as we have been doing in restaurants, using correct techniques to handle each raw material.
– The challenge from now on?
– As Ajo Negro we want to continue evolving, have more visibility, have a physical place where we can receive clients.
– Are you also advisers?
– Yes, from businesses and restaurants. Our goal is to value everything we know. If the objective of those who hire us is not clear or does not agree with our way of seeing gastronomy, we prefer to give it a chance to look for other alternatives. Gastronomic advice is already part of the trajectory we have in the field. It is what gives us the most tools to be able to help the entrepreneur or businessman who requires the service. Our great challenge is to evolve and stay current. Continue transmitting knowledge, being able to continue on top of the food truck. And contributing from our place to the gastronomy of the region.
There are more and more people who claim to lower a change or several changes in a world that marches at full speed who knows where. In this need -or trend- Silvina and Leandro propose a silent and rich kitchen in motion guided by a utopia: using food to transform people and change their perception of the world, at least for an instant. A steaming plate on a cold day, for example, or a warm sandwich can temper our spirit and make us better. Even for a little while, it doesn’t matter. That is already a lot and it is appreciated.
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