Whether they are customers or journalists, visitors arriving at the Fabrique du Temps come out stunned: first at the reception by the scenography as impressive as it is joyful in this white building of 4000m2, then by the diversity and the know-how of the trades that evolve there in perfect symbiosis: dial makers, engineers, watchmakers, miniature painters, not to mention enamel, engraving and gem-setting with external partners. Louis Vuitton celebrates its 20th anniversary in watchmaking this year, more than half of which following its integration into the Fabrique du Temps in 2011, created by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini in 2007.
Michel Navas © Louis Vuitton
Initially, the desire and the vision of these two watchmaking entrepreneurs consisted in carrying out fine work in an entity on a human scale, following a career in the large traditional houses. A few watchmakers and builders around a workshop, thousands of ideas, and projects carried out for a dozen brands, including Louis Vuitton, for whom they designed the Spin Time. Its display of time indications on rotating cubes was so innovative, and unexpected for Louis Vuitton, that it was a resounding success. So much so that the two enthusiasts were invited to join the world leader in luxury, to their great astonishment. A quick consultation between them made them decide to board the Louis Vuitton odyssey: “It’s a serious house, known and recognized in other areas, which respected our initial philosophy, the potential was fabulous” , comments Michel Navas. In the wake of this acquisition, Louis Vuitton also bought the company Léman Cadrans, moved its production unit from La Chaux-de-Fonds, and brought everyone together under the brand new roof of this manufacture in 2014, i.e. nearly 60 collaborators. “Today there are around a hundred of us, but for me this remains on a human scale, we remain as creative and free as ever, and always bring fine watchmaking that is different from that of our colleagues. »
The Workshop © Louis Vuitton
World premieres and GPHG double
“We are making our handicap as a young watchmaking house a strength compared to these secular brands where we operated before, because we can afford audacity such as the Spin Time which would not be conceivable in these large traditional houses; it would be too disruptive, ”says Michel Navas. By trying as much as possible to evolve in the world of travel, its teams are keen to bring something new to the display or the function, as reflected in their first minute repeater which struck home time, a world first. Rebelotte with the Tambour Twin Chrono in 2013, a mono-pusher bi-chronograph with a patented differential display allowing the race time of two boats in a match race to be measured on two counters, as well as the difference between the two racing times of the two boats in match racing on the counter at noon.
Conception Design © Louis Vuitton
“Our challenge for the next few years is to continue to surprise, as with the Tambour Carpe Diem which won the Prix de l’Audace at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2021. We made it to show how far we might push the complexity, known for six years by some custom-made order customers who preferred to remain discreet on this subject. The scale of the phenomenon is forcing us to give up sales,” explains Michel Navas.
Drum Carpe Diem © Louis Vuitton
The strength of this factory, unlike any other, also lies in its dual culture, watchmaking by its founders, design by the world’s leading luxury brand, Louis Vuitton. The aesthetic codes of pieces such as the Tambour or the Escale are very advanced, nourished by details from a brand universe as rich as it is sharp, bringing differentiation. Thus, “when we developed the Escale Worldtime, it came out of the technical office in a very classic way. But when she returned from the design department in Paris, she was dramatically transformed and generated enormous success. This promises for the next twenty years.
