The manager of the Teatro Cucina Italiana, recently opened a stone’s throw from the Grand Théâtre de Genève, keeps the name of its chef secret, but assures that he worked in an establishment listed among the 50 best restaurants in the world. We only know that he is from Israel and that he worked first in Singapore, then for a long time in Milan before landing at the end of the lake.
The mysterious man in the kitchen has prepared a concise and effective menu that can be enjoyed in this intimate and extravagant setting. On one side of the room, theater chairs attached to the wall covered with superimposed posters that combine vintage Italian advertisements with posters of La Scala in Milan. On the other side, less lit, tables with tablecloths on which masks are placed. Customers like to play with these elements, take their picture, especially on weekends, when the atmosphere is more festive and lively.
Carpaccios and tartares from la mer à la terre
Among the starters, we discover in particular a scallop carpaccio with sea urchin caviar, a tuna carpaccio with bottarga, or a knife-cut beef tartare with beets and vinaigrette. “The cut is an element to which we attach the greatest importance, specifies Alexandre, the manager, who sneaks between the tables to exchange with the customers and make them taste the wines. Our carpaccios are cut into larger slices than usual, to better sublimate these products without drowning them in too many condiments.
The tasty fish soup is complemented with slivered almonds, the squid ink risotto with mussels and langoustines. The monkfish is served with cauliflower and eggplant as well as a sambuca-flavoured sauce to give it a slight aniseed touch. For carnivorous cravings, the lamb chops are served with seasonal vegetables and mashed chestnuts and Jerusalem artichokes. “We marinate the chops in different sauces to vary the flavors, reveals Alexandre, originally from Georgia. We use a secret ingredient, which is part of the aromatic herbs of my native country.”
Restaurant Teatro Italian Cuisine, bd Georges-Favon 15, Geneva. Such. 022 310 97 98. Open only in the evening, Tuesday to Saturday from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. find all the articles of the headingOne day, an idea».
