Reading time:
3 min
Nougat from Montélimar, Corsican charcuterie, and local honey are among the local specialties that fill the stalls of summer markets. Here’s our advice to ensure you purchase authentic products at reasonable prices.
© PUNTOSTUDIOFOTO Lda/Adobe Stock – Be careful to distinguish between AOP charcuterie and those that are simply IGP.
Ah, regional specialties! It’s quite tempting to bring some home from your trip to prolong your vacation a bit once you return. The issue, however, is that local production is often limited and doesn’t meet tourist demand, increasing the likelihood of purchasing non-local products. Here’s our advice to avoid falling into this trap.
Honey: Avoid Vague Indications of Origin
Honey is another star product of the summer markets, yet French production (around 33,500 tonnes) does not meet consumer demand (45,000 tonnes). Consequently, imports of Asian honey are on the rise. A key advantage of markets is the local offerings from beekeepers, many of whom also have seasonal activities. These beekeepers often struggle to earn a decent salary unless they manage at least 300 hives. Furthermore, we should avoid products resulting from blends from various European countries, which are often found in supermarkets. Yet, a minimum level of vigilance is essential. First, consider the price: “Production costs for an operator range from six to eight euros per kilo,” notes Vincent Brossel, head of communications for the National Union of French Beekeeping (Unaf). If artisanal French honey, exclusively made from flower nectar, is priced below 10 euros per kilo, this is suspicious.” Regarding origin (“local honey,” “honey from the area,” etc.) and quality (“natural honey,” “100% honey”), any vague claims should be avoided. The harvest location and the producer’s name must be specified, along with the origin of the flowers collected by the bees. Note that monofloral honey (lavender, thyme, acacia, sunflower, etc.) should contain at least 70% nectar from that particular flower. For those looking for reassurance, some honeys carry quality labels, such as a protected geographical indication (PGI) over a larger area with varying tastes (Cévennes, Provence, Alsace) or a protected designation of origin (PDO) over a smaller area with distinct characteristics (Corsica and Sapin des Vosges).
Tourism: “We now travel in complete safety,” eliminating stress for solo female travelers
Nougat from Montélimar: Don’t Confuse it with Ordinary Nougat
This summer, if you travel along the A7 motorway southward on vacation or return north after your getaway, you might stop at one of the two rest areas in Montélimar (26). There, you will find two shops that are home to the last twelve nougat producers in the town, who continue to create this renowned confection following traditional methods (Chabert & Guillot, Arnaud Soubeyran, Les Trois abeilles, etc.). While the minimum regulations mandate only 15% of dried fruit in the filling, the specifications for Montélimar nougat require at least 30% sweet almonds and 25% honey relative to the weight of sweeteners, with no glucose, gelatin, or other dubious ingredients allowed in the meringue paste. “Unfortunately, even in our area, counterfeit nougat is prevalent,” warns Marie-Claude Stoffel, president of the Montélimar nougat makers’ union and CEO of Chabert & Guillot. The profession is eagerly anticipating the establishment of PGI status at the European level to differentiate itself from questionable products. However, a PDO is not possible since honey and almonds are not locally produced. If you are in the South, you may also find quality nougat from Provence that is softer and more elastic than Montélimar nougat. Generally, expect to pay between 30 and 60 euros per kilo; prices exceeding 70 euros should raise suspicions. A list of reputable Montélimar manufacturers is available on the Aventure du nougat website.
Charcuterie and Cheese: Test the Reliability of the Merchants
The charcuterie and cheese stalls are always popular at markets. Some brands, like Henaff pâté, highlight local connections, which is logical because gastronomes cherish these specialties. Mountain sausage, country ham, artisanal cheese—these provide traders with opportunities to deceive customers using appealing names and information written in chalk on slates for a local flair. Fortunately, there are ways to identify these scams. First, don’t hesitate to ask the seller where these products come from and what they contain. Uncertainty on their part should raise concerns. The presentation of the stall and how the products are served can also provide clues. “Poorly cut cheeses with crumbs indicate a lack of professionalism,” says Véronique Richez-Lerouge, the founder of the Fromages de terroirs association. The appearance of the products matters as well; be wary of large cheese slices that may be downgraded pieces from a quality label for failing to meet specifications. They may still be good but should not be sold at the price of labeled cheese. As for sausages, they shouldn’t appear too red or taste too salty or acidic. Lastly, consider the labels—more ingredients typically indicate industrial production. If quality labels are present, exercise caution: some charcuterie and cheeses have AOP status, while others have IGP status. AOP requires that all stages from raw material (raising of pigs, cows, goats, etc.) to manufacturing occur in a tightly-defined geographical area. IGP only requires one step, often processing, and the regions are typically larger. This can lead to confusion, particularly in Corsica, where AOP charcuterie made only from pigs raised on the island coexists with IGP charcuterie, whose meat may come from other locations. “This can lead to unfortunate confusion,” says Véronique Richez-Lerouge, who has authored a book on these different labels (Les labels pris en otage, éditions Erick Bonnier).
Find our other episodes in this summer series, which explore scams related to food products sold at markets as well as those pertaining to artisanal goods.
Receive our latest news Every morning, the essentials of CAPITAL news.
Reading time:
3 min
Nougat from Montélimar, Corsican charcuterie, or even local honey… these local specialties invade the stalls of summer markets. Our advice to be sure to buy authentic products. And at a reasonable price…
© PUNTOSTUDIOFOTO Lda/Adobe Stock – Be careful to distinguish between AOP charcuterie and those that are simply IGP.
Ah, regional specialties! It is so tempting to bring some back from your stay, in order to extend your vacation a little, once you return home. The problem is that their local production, limited, is often lower than the demand of tourists… And that the risk of being passed off merchandise that is not really local is high. Our advice to avoid falling into the trap.
Honey: avoid vague indications of origin
Yet another star product of the summer markets, but whose French production (around 33,500 tonnes) does not cover consumer needs (45,000 tonnes). Imports of Asian honey are increasing. Advantage of the markets: there is an offer proposed by local beekeepers, many of whom have another seasonal activity, the sale of honey making it difficult to earn a decent salary below 300 hives.
In addition, we must avoid products resulting from mixtures from different European countries, often present in supermarkets. Nevertheless, a minimum of vigilance is necessary. First on the price: “The production costs for an operator fluctuate between six and eight euros per kilo,” underlines Vincent Brossel, head of communications for the professional union, Unaf (National Union of French Beekeeping). A price for an artisanal French honey exclusively from flower nectar below 10 euros per kilo is therefore suspect.
As for the origin (“local honey”, “local honey”…) and the quality (“natural honey”, “100% honey”), any vague indication of this kind should be avoided. The place of harvest and the name of the producer must be indicated, as well as ideally the origin of the flowers foraged by the bees. Note that a monofloral honey (lavender, thyme, acacia, sunflower…) must contain at least 70% nectar from this flower.
Finally, for those wishing to be reassured, some honeys display quality labels, either a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) over a large territory (Cévennes, Provence, Alsace) or a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) over a smaller area (Corsica and Sapin des Vosges).
Nougat from Montélimar: don’t confuse it with simple nougat
This summer, if you take the A7 motorway to head south on holiday or back up to the north at the end of your holiday, you might stop at one of the two rest areas in Montélimar (26). There you will discover two shops hosting the last twelve nougat producers in the town, still producing this famous confection according to the rules of the art (Chabert & Guillot, Arnaud Soubeyran, Les Trois abeilles, etc.).
While the minimum regulations only require 15% of dried fruit filling, the specifications for Montélimar nougat require a minimum of 30% sweet almonds and 25% honey in relation to the weight of the sweeteners. No addition of glucose, gelatin or other questionable ingredients is allowed in the meringue paste.
“Unfortunately, even in our region, fake nougat is rife,” warns Marie-Claude Stoffel, president of the Montélimar nougat makers’ union and CEO of Chabert & Guillot. The profession is eagerly awaiting its PGI at European level to be able to distinguish itself from dubious productions. No PDO is possible, however, since honey and almonds are not produced locally. Generally expect to pay between 30 and 60 euros per kilo. Beyond 70 euros, things start to get suspicious… The list of quality manufacturers for Montélimar is available on the Aventure du nougat website.
Charcuterie and cheese: test the reliability of the merchants
The stalls selling charcuterie and cheese are always among the most popular at the markets. And some brands, like Henaff pâté, also play on local ties. Logical. Gastronomes love these specialties. Mountain sausage, country ham, artisanal cheese… This is a great opportunity for some traders to mislead unsuspecting customers, with the help of pretty names that sound good to the locals and information written in chalk on slates to add local color.
Fortunately, there are ways to spot them. First, don’t hesitate to talk to the seller about where these products come from and what they contain. If they seem unsure, it’s a red flag. Similarly, the cleanliness of the stall and the presentation of the goods provide indications of quality. “Poorly cut cheeses with crumbs are a sign of a lack of professionalism,” says Véronique Richez-Lerouge, creator of the Fromages de terroirs association.
The appearance of the products is also important. For example, large cheeses that may be downgraded from a quality label because they do not comply with specifications. They may be tasty but should not be sold at the price of a labeled cheese. For their part, sausages should not appear overly red or taste excessively salty or acidic.
Finally, when it comes to labels, the more ingredients listed, the more likely they are to be products of industrial production. Pay special attention to labels. Some charcuterie and cheeses benefit from an AOP while others have an IGP. The AOP requires that all stages, from raw material to production, occur in a very restricted geographical area, while IGP only requires processing to occur in that area, leading to potentially broader sourcing.
This can certainly create confusion, particularly in Corsica, where AOP charcuterie products made only with locally raised pigs coexist with IGP charcuterie products sourced from elsewhere. “This can lead to regrettable confusion,” says Véronique Richez-Lerouge, who has written a book on these different labels (Les labels pris en otage, éditions Erick Bonnier).
Benefits of Buying Local Specialties
- Support Local Economies: Purchasing local products directly supports regional artisans and farmers.
- Freshness and Quality: Local products are typically fresher and higher in quality compared to mass-produced varieties.
- Cultural Experience: Sampling regional specialties offers a unique cultural experience beyond the standard tourist fare.
Practical Tips for Authentic Shopping at Summer Markets
- Know Your Product: Do preliminary research on local specialties before visiting the market.
- Ask Questions: Engage with vendors to learn about their products and origins.
- Look for Quality Labels: Familiarize yourself with quality labels like AOP and IGP that signify authentic products.
- Trust Your Instincts: If something seems too good to be true (like extraordinarily cheap prices), it probably is.
Find our other episodes of this summer series, starting with scams on food products sold at markets, but also those linked to artisanal products.
Receive our latest news Every morning, the essentials of CAPITAL news.
