“From Linear to Circular: Transforming Morocco’s Textile Industry for Sustainability and EU Compliance”

2023-05-14 09:53:14

Morocco needs to review the entire textile value chain, from design to marketing, to ensure true circularity, according to a study by the International Finance Corporation (IFC).

“To ensure true circularity, Morocco must review the entire textile value chain, from design to supply and then marketing, taking into account the waste produced at these different stages, to ensure that its industry is able to meet the requirements of the European Union (EU)”, emerges from this thematic study carried out by the IFC on circularity in the Moroccan textile industry entitled “From linear to circular: perspectives for the Moroccan textile industry”.

While complying with new EU requirements for circularity and sustainability, Morocco can achieve positive outcomes that include increased exports to the bloc of 27, greater market share as buyers are sourcing more from the Kingdom and looking to shorten supply chains, and the ability to position themselves for better access to the vast US market, the same source said.

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Although these measures require considerable effort, the IFC maintains that the Kingdom is well placed to succeed in the bet of circularity in the textile industry for several reasons linked in particular to the strengths of the country, as well as to the awareness by the national authorities and players in the textile sector regarding the imperative to seize this opportunity and act urgently.

And to note that the establishment of a circular economy for the textile ecosystem would also make it possible to create a greater number of jobs and new value chains, given the vital importance of the sector for the Kingdom.

Moreover, the transformation of the Moroccan textile industry, so that it applies the principles of circularity, is not limited to the use of renewable energies or the increase in recycling rates, but it also consists of using fewer inputs (fabrics, dyes, water and energy) to manufacture textile products by making the most of the means employed.

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In this sense, the study highlights a series of crucial measures that Morocco must take to achieve this ambition, including the promotion of the recovery of post-industrial waste (in particular cutting room scraps) and pre- -consumption, in addition to the establishment at the local level of modern collection and recycling factories capable of transforming waste into yarns and fabrics, and of recycling unsold imported garments, even if the latter task would require the adoption of new customs rules .

It is also regarding building a modern and sustainable industry locally, which provides upstream elements such as yarn, fabric, printing and dyeing, and which ensures traceability for brands, and to increase the possibilities of collaboration with local businesses up the value chain, which would help Morocco meet the pan-Euro-Mediterranean rules of origin for preferential access to the EU.

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There is also talk of moving from fast fashion and the CMT model (cut-assemble-finish model – Cut, Make and Trim) in which fabrics come from abroad, to a model in which a greater quantity of materials is purchased locally and which offers buyers items from an FPP (Full Package Production System) production system. It also involves working closely with the EU and its representations for international trade to obtain advice and, if necessary, seek funding to support the transition, as well as targeting the textile sectors in which the Kingdom has a comparative advantage, and invest more in innovation and technology to improve the country’s competitive advantage.

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