2023-07-11 14:48:13
Palette reduced to absolute black crossed by a few flashes of silver, milky white and extinguished purple, nocturnal creatures deploying their spells… Going once morest the trend of his own tendency to create collections in vibrant and saturated colors, Zuhair Murad launches for the first time in an exploration of nocturnal nuances. Black, which carries all the colors within it and which artists reserve, along with white, in the category of “values” seems to be self-sufficient. The challenge for the couturier is to transform this limit into a path and to open up the infinite horizon of the night in the dark. The night is mysteries, secret lives, invisible revealed by a faint burst of light, shimmering stars, between the two of dream and reality, reminiscences, sumptuous parties which invite in their elegance the ancient sabbaths where freedom is sovereign.
The night is mysteries, secret lives, invisible revealed by a faint burst of light, shimmering stars, between dream and reality. Photo Zuhair Murad
The fauna and flora of the dark hour
Silver moths shimmering in purple stand out in precious embroidery once morest the heady night of a corseted velvet jacket with a geometric neckline. The lace of the cuffs joins the fluidity of a long skirt, top slit, whose drape evokes a nocturnal waterfall.
The ironwork of an abandoned manor takes shape in dazzling lace and embroidery on the motif of a short dress softened with black tulle veils or silver macramé trousers.
The crow lends the clear line of its feathers to a scattering of staggered patterns, silver on black. Feathers, once more, black, with long stems, create around the dresses a subtle movement, an invisible radiance, an ineffable caress. The bat, queen of the night, inspires with the distinctive arc of its wings the rigorous outline of a pass. Its furtive shadow is reflected in encrustations of various sizes on a fall of tulle. A monumental cape, detached from bubbling taffeta, lends its dramatic effect to dresses where lingerie is flush, where corsetry becomes architecture, imitates wrought iron, structures the body, exalts sensuality while keeping it at a distance like would do so the gate of a castle folded back on its own night.
Roses bloom in taffeta, clump together in surreal, sublimely poisonous bouquets. The moonlight gives their excessiveness dark flamboyances, dull red, purple, mauve. Their thorny stems become lianas, encircle, encircle, play with moonbeams in silver thread embroidery, barbed stripes on a trouser suit that looks masculine, but fluid, split, both tactile and forbidden. A huge black rose stands as a counterpoint at the junction of a velvet corset from which emerges an opulent skirt with a motif of roses in fil coupé jacquard. The fauna and flora of the dark hour give free rein to their fantasies, alternately disturbing or familiar, depending on whether the light reveals them or the shadow hides them.
Everything in this collection evokes medieval luxury, quirky gothic reminiscences, translated into eminently contemporary fantasies. Magnetic, black is the very essence of seduction here, and its subdued lights are infinitely fascinating.
The ironwork of an abandoned manor takes shape in dazzling lace and embroidery on the motif of a short dress softened with veils of black tulle. Photo Zuhair Murad
Presence of past and future in the moment
The couturier, who has never hidden his superstitions, his attraction to esotericism, astrology and the divinatory arts, nor his quest for a connection with the universe, continues his exploration of the fluidity of time, the presence of the past and the future in the moment. The building that houses his workshops, located exactly in the profile of the silos, having been hard hit by the double explosion at the port of Beirut on August 4, 2020, he suffered the disaster by engaging in a face-to-face with the destiny, always more intrigued by his signals that he tries to decipher through his creations. Reminiscences of the past, stellar alignments, cosmic murmurs, hidden treasures are reflected in her dresses with dazzling embroidery and unprecedented volumes.
Since the launch of his label in Beirut in 1997 and his welcome by the Chambre Syndicale de Haute Couture in 2012 as a guest member, Zuhair Murad has quickly become a pillar of the red carpets. Her tattoo embroideries and her sensual style, her particular sense of glamour, her assertive identity earned her the unconditional loyalty of many film and pop stars, such as Catherine Zeta-Jones, Miley Cyrus, Kristen Stewart, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood , Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Kellie Pickler, Shakira, Katy Perry, Christina Applegate, Ana Ortiz, Vanessa Williams, Adele, Olivia Culpo, Eva Longoria and many more.
Palette reduced to absolute black crossed by a few flashes of silver, milky white and extinguished purple, nocturnal creatures deploying their spells… Going once morest the trend of his own tendency to create collections in vibrant and saturated colors, Zuhair Murad launches for the first time in an exploration of nocturnal nuances. The black that carries all the colors within it…
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