2024-01-30 15:10:00
There are several palm trees in front of the main hall of Myogwaneumsa Temple in Gijang, Busan, creating an exotic landscape. /Reporter Kim Han-soo
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The scenery with palm trees in the front yard of the main hall was unique. I felt like I was in some far southern country. This is Myogwaneumsa Temple in Gijang, Busan, which I visited last week. Myogwaneumsa Temple is a temple that I have wanted to visit for a long time. The starting point was an article titled ‘An anecdote of great monk Hyanggok’ published serially by monk Beomnyeom in ‘Buddhist Newspaper’ in 2016. Monk Beomnyeom served monk Hyanggok (1912-1978) at Myogwaneumsa Temple for three years immediately following becoming a monk in 1972, and told anecdotes from that time with his delicious writing skills. I really wanted to see that stage at least once.
Monk Hyanggok, along with monks Seongcheol, Cheongdam, and Jaun, joined the Bongamsa Temple in the late 1940s and led modern Buddhism in Korea. He was known as Seongcheol’s best friend. Myogwaneumsa Temple is a temple founded in 1941 by Monk Unbong, the mentor of Monk Hyanggok. After Monk Unbong passed away in 1946, Monk Hyanggok rebuilt it and stayed here in the 1960s and 1970s to teach younger students. It is said that monks of the time, including monk Seongcheol and Seongdam of Cheongdam, visited Myogwaneumsa Temple and practiced asceticism. Because the monk Hyanggok was there, the giants of his time would have come to visit. Jinje, the former head of the Jogye Order, is a disciple of Hyanggok.
‘Takmajeong’ on the grounds of Myogwaneumsa Temple. This is the site of the legend that monks Hyanggok and monk Seongcheol encouraged each other to study and tried to throw them into a well. /Reporter Kim Han-soo
Myogwaneumsa Temple, which has a relatively short history, is steeped in the legendary story of monks Hyanggok and Seongcheol during their energetic youth. It is said that the two of them always did their best to each other by saying, “Pay money for the food.” As fellow students, we strongly(?) encouraged each other to study. It is said that the two even got into a physical fight(?) at Myogwaneumsa Temple. He said, “Tell me (what you realized),” and made it look like he was going to stick it in a well within the temple grounds. There is also a story that they fought as if they were going to throw each other into the sea water at nearby Imnang Beach. The well, which was later named ‘Takmajeong (琢磨井)’ as a place where they studied together, is located just to the left of Daeungjeon. It is the legendary stage of the giants of Korean modern Buddhism.
Although I was curious regarding the site, I had not had much contact with it until now, but I happened to have time last week and visited Myogwaneumsa Temple. Myogwaneumsa Temple was different from regular temples right from the entrance. The entrance corresponding to ‘Iljumun’ was the ‘underpass’. Above Iljumun Gate, the Donghae Line railway connecting Busan and Ulsan passed. Above the underpass, the words ‘Imje Temple Beoprimsan Myogwaneumsa Temple’ were engraved on a stone. It is said that in the past, there was a railroad crossing on a flat area, and as the railroad line was moved closer to the temple, an underpass was built and it was used as Iljumun Gate. It felt like an exquisite compromise.
One main gate of Myogwaneumsa Temple. The underpass under the Donghae Line railway was used as the main gate. /Reporter Kim Han-soo
Myogwaneumsa Temple was a small but beautiful temple that gave off a special feeling right from the entrance. In Korea, where there are many temples that are 1,000 years old, temples with 80 years of history are considered ‘young temples.’ However, Myogwaneumsa Temple gave a cozy and neat feeling without much of a flashy ‘new’ smell. The palm trees located throughout the grounds, including the front yard of the main hall, gave off a southern feel. The small-sized main hall had beautiful floral doors. In Josajeon, located on the embankment to the right of Daeungjeon, there are portraits of Chinese Zen masters such as Majo, Namjeon, and Baekjang in the center, portraits of monks Gyeongheo and Unbong on the right, and monks Hyewol and Hyanggok on the left, representing the Myogwaneumsa Temple. It was showing the line of law that led to . The stairs and paths connecting each pavilion were covered with camellia trees and bamboo trees. The camellia was in bud form. According to an internet blog, fall is famous for its flowers. As I stood in front of Gwaneumjeon, the cool East Sea unfolded before my eyes.
Scenery of Myogwaneumsa Temple. /Reporter Kim Han-soo
Monk Seogang, who was appointed as the head priest 10 years ago, was largely responsible for establishing Myogwaneumsa Temple in its current form. Monk Seogang is the second seat of Monk Hyanggok. He went to a Zen school and said that he built five new pavilions following taking charge as the head priest regarding 10 years ago. Before that, the temple was said to have been small and shabby.
‘Takmajeong’ was also restored to its current appearance by monk Seogang. It is said that the well was regarding 6m deep and was dangerous because it overflowed when it rained. So, before Monk Sogang took office as abbot, it was covered with cement and blocked. However, visitors to Myogwaneumsa Temple kept asking, ‘Where is the well where Monk Hyanggok and Monk Seongcheol fought?’ I wanted to check out the ‘legendary site.’ So the monk Sogang restored Takmajeong by drilling a round hole in the granite. Of course, it is not used as drinking water, but rather a kind of monument.
There is a notice like this next to Takmajeong Pavilion.
‘Takma’ refers to the act or process of polishing jade, etc., and improving academics, arts, and spirit. When two monks, Hyanggok and Seongcheol, were practicing here in their youth, one monk who wanted to experience a deeper and more detailed world of enlightenment grabbed another monk by the scruff of his neck and lowered his head into the water of the well. He did not raise his head, putting his life at risk. So, he continued his study by saying a word, and later on, the two monks rose to the ranks of the greatest Zen masters who might check the samādhi of discrimination one by one. Believing that the restoration might be an opportunity for younger students who were interested in practicing to be converted by seeing Takmajeong and reexamine their own level of practice, the request of Samnak Lee Geun-chang and the supervision of Hyegyeong Lee Byeong-gyo were a great help. . Whoever reads this! It is right to think regarding the two monks’ miserable feelings at that time and see what it must have been like!’
On the floor in front of the sub-jeon of Myogwaneumsa Temple, there is a dharma diagram showing the Avatamsaka ideology in figures. /Reporter Kim Han-soo
Zen masters cannot be missed at the temple where Daesunsa (大禪師) stayed. On the hill to the left of the precincts is Gilsang Seonwon. Monk Seogang said, “At the time of Monk Hyanggok, the building next to Daeungjeon was used as a Buddhist temple. Even though it was small, it is said that regarding 40 monks and nuns gathered together during Dongangeo and Haangeo and devoted themselves to Zen meditation.” He added, “We built a new temple in a modern building.” I did. Currently, it is said that 9 Zen monks, including the head monk Sogang, are devoting their energies to the temple during a period of meditation (from the 15th day of the 10th lunar month to the 15th day of the first month of the lunar calendar). Monk Sogang only briefly comes out of the monastery during the lunch offering to attend to the abbot’s duties. Monk Sogang said, “If you are getting your hair cut, you should study (practice).”
Myogwaneumsa Temple can also be reached by rail. It is regarding 1.4km away from Wolnae Station on the Donghae Line that passes in front of the temple, so you can walk along the beach in regarding 30 minutes. Also nearby are the Park Tae-jun Memorial Hall, a cafe called ‘In the Flower Garden of Jeong Hoon-hee and Kim Tae-hwa’, and Imnang Beach. If you have a chance to visit Gijang, Busan, it would be a good idea to visit the beautiful Myogwaneumsa Temple.
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