2023-05-21 10:47:32
Munich – Our newspaper reaches David Göttler (44) – of course – in the mountains. On the Theodulhütte at 3317 meters, below the Matterhorn. In the interview, the Munich alpinist talks about the rush to Everest (8849 m), his own ascent to the highest point on earth and tourism in the mountains.
David Göttler, what is alpinism for you?
This is a relatively wide area, as one moves in the mountains. For me, this includes being independent and independent in the mountains, in small teams with a maximum of four people. If we look at expedition mountaineering without additional aids such as oxygen.
Every year at the start of the Everest season, images of the traffic jam on the world’s highest mountain are shown again. The rush also has to do with the fact that the Sherpas and oxygen make the ascent much easier.
Absolutely. And in any case, what we see on Everest has nothing to do with alpinism. 98 percent of these are simply guided ascents. I was at the summit without oxygen and Sherpas, but I wouldn’t call that alpinism either. I used fixed ropes and didn’t have to lay a meter of my own track. But of course it was a completely different style. Only two percent of Everest ascents are made without oxygen. The people who are out and about there with all sorts of tools naturally perceive the mountain differently. Therefore, it is not surprising that the success rate of getting to the highest point is quite high.
When you successfully climbed Everest in 2022, you didn’t have any oxygen with you, there was Haribo as a small doping.
There is no rule book for expedition mountaineering. It is up to us mountaineers to document everything honestly and transparently. At that time I met a friend in camp four who offered me half a pack of Haribo.
It was really a conflict for me because I didn’t want to accept any outside help. In the end I couldn’t resist (laughs). As banal as that sounds, it was important for me to communicate immediately where I accepted external help. I once compared mountaineering with oxygen to an e-bike. Of course you can also cycle the Tour de France on an e-bike and feel the same as a top cyclist, but it’s just something different.
What do you wish?
In expedition mountaineering, we have to describe more honestly how we do what. Top managers always like to have an Everest climb in their profile. But the next question should then be: Were you up there with or without oxygen? The challenge that nature presents to us up there with little oxygen has to be accepted honestly. Then many would also notice: Oh, but now it’s over from 6000 meters. And it wouldn’t be so crowded anymore.
In 2019 you turned back 100 meters below the summit. Even then there was a traffic jam.
There were just too many people up there. I also say very explicitly people. Because I have a hard time calling them mountaineers just because they’re wearing crampons. Without oxygen and Sherpas, I can’t afford to stand there and wait out the traffic jam. But I never judged that there was so much going on there. You just know that, you have to take that into account.
454 people want to climb Everest this year. As many as never before. Of course, the agencies and Sherpas also make a living from this business and as many successful ascents as possible.
I would never condemn the tourism of the Nepalese either. I just hope we can show them how to make the whole thing sustainable from the start. That they don’t make the same mistakes as we do in the Alps. We have everything installed. But to say to the poorest country in the world, “Hey, do a little less business”, to tell them to do it, seems very cynical to me. At the same time we try to milk every last cent out of the Alps.
Do you often think back to the moment when you stood on the highest point on earth?
The beauty of the mountain is that everyone can find it for themselves. For some, Munich’s local mountain might already be like Everest. The interplay with nature means a lot to me. I was at the summit of Makalu in 2013. Then I had a dry spell. I learned an awful lot on the expeditions, but I was never at the top. Standing on Everest on the third attempt in 2022 will carry you through many years in which you may never get up anywhere again. The moment is not what many might imagine. You don’t start cheering or singing. Because you know that you have to go down again. It’s only half time to be up there. I was lucky enough to be all alone on the summit. This is indescribable. I was in my own world.
Interview: Nico-Marius Schmitz
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