This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
“Over half the population of Toronto has come from elsewhere and brought their cuisine with them. Which is great news for those who like to eat!” My culinary tour guide, the enthusiastic William Jordan, exclaims, sipping on rich cups of Tibetan-style butter coffee from a charming hole-in-the-wall cafe nestled in the vibrant Kensington Market neighborhood.
As we stroll through the market, the tantalizing aroma of spiced curry goat wafts through the open door of a nearby roti joint, immediately working up my appetite. The overwhelming choices can be a double-edged sword, as I find myself paralyzed by the options around me. This historic area, located at the fringe of Chinatown, serves as a culinary mecca where visitors can embark on a delicious journey around the globe—all within just a few blocks filled with colorful mural-adorned alleyways, lively food stalls, and unique, independently-owned dining establishments.
In a city profoundly influenced by diverse waves of immigration, Kensington Market has long been celebrated as the go-to destination to savor the finest Caribbean patties or to snag a handful of fiery scorpion peppers from local spice shops. In recent years, the next generation of first-generation immigrant restaurateurs has taken the reins, infusing their own creativity into traditional recipes and ushering in a thrilling landscape of fusion cuisine that delights the palate with unexpected and exciting combinations.
So, where to embark on this culinary exploration? Luckily, William from the food tour company Chopsticks & Forks is here to guide me through Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, focusing specifically on the delightful cultural crossovers of its cuisine. Our first destination is Leaf Doner, a relaxed shawarma grill situated next to a quaint specialist cheese shop and just a stone’s throw away from a butcher famous for its garlicky sausages.
Across a simple Formica table, William presents the restaurant’s house specialty: luscious kebab meat steeped in sweet maple syrup, all enveloped in a taco shell. While this unlikely fusion of Turkish, Canadian, and Mexican elements may seem like a culinary gamble on paper, the explosion of flavors is so remarkable that I find myself eagerly devouring it before licking the sticky, savory juices from my fingers.
Urban Toronto is a bustling hub, home to approximately 2.6 million residents, with a wider metropolitan area swelling to 5.6 million people.
Photograph by Diego Grandi, Getty Images
Canada’s most populous city, Toronto, renowned for its vibrant gastronomic scene, earned the distinction of being the first destination in the country to receive its very own Michelin Guide in 2022, a testament to its diverse culinary prowess.
The city is a melting pot, with over 180 languages spoken across its diverse neighborhoods. “Our strength,” William notes, “has always been our multiculturalism. But now we’re witnessing food coming together in these truly bizarre and wonderful ways.” As we continue our walk, we pass Rasta Pasta, a beloved Jamaican-Italian fusion eatery gaining a cult following. Moments later, we encounter New Ho King, a Chinese restaurant that garnered fame when Canadian rapper Drake filmed scenes for a music video there.
Red lanterns gently sway in the entrance of Takoyaki6ix, a cozy Japanese cafe where we take a moment to enjoy crispy chicken katsu tucked inside fluffy bao buns. Seated at a street-side table, William highlights yet another example of culinary fusion: katsu cutlets, introduced to Toronto from Europe via Japan, paired with bao buns originating from northern China.
Sushi pizza, which is said to have originated in Toronto, features a fried rice base topped with fresh salmon, creamy avocado, and a drizzle of spicy mayo served with soy sauce and pickled ginger.
Photograph by Bon Chan, Getty Images
Nearby, colorful beakers filled with refreshing sugar cane juice are available at a vibrant yellow Caribbean shack bar. “There’s a significant Jamaican population here, contributing to the area’s vibrancy and the Rastafarian community,” William shares. This neighborhood has also attracted hippies since the late 1960s, and the bohemian spirit still lingers today, evidenced by boutiques selling eclectic incense and tie-dye apparel.
“With so many options available, I could easily conduct 100 of these tours and never revisit the same establishment,” William expresses in awe as we savor one last bite at Koi Japan, a hidden sushi spot serving up a luxurious version of guacamole enveloped in silky rice and dusted with edible gold.
Later that day, situated 12 miles northeast of bustling downtown Toronto in Scarborough, I uncover a different facet of cultural cross-pollination. In the shadow of towering electricity pylons, Malvern Urban Farm has ingeniously converted a long-abandoned stretch of wasteland into a vibrant two-acre community farming hub.
There to showcase the farm’s treasures is Isaac Crosby, a passionate Black and Anishinaabe First Nations agricultural instructor and self-professed ‘earth helper’. Since joining the non-profit effort, Isaac has employed his hydrofield allotment to educate others about the Indigenous food systems that have been lost since colonization.
Isaac combines African and Indigenous farming techniques, which include rituals that involve cedar, sweetgrass, white sage, and tobacco, as well as harvesting in the autumn and winter months. He embraces the beauty of Malvern Urban Farm, where every grower cultivates their own culturally resonant food system, and the exchange of knowledge flourishes among the diverse gardens.
Prime Seafood Palace offers an array of seafood, tender steaks, and gravy-soaked Yorkshire pudding.
Photograph by Bao Dao
“We have farmers from all corners—Trinidad, Pakistan, India, South America. We gather here, sharing stories, laughter, and learning from one another,” he says as he hands me a tiny white strawberry, bursting with mellow, vanilla-like essence as I pop it into my mouth.
“Just over here,” Isaac gestures through the towering stalks of white corn toward some nearby plots. “I guided the farmer to create traditional mounds that enhance crop production in the dense, clay soil,” he explains. He elaborates on how companion crops—beans and squash—grow harmoniously from the mounds. This ancient cultivating method, known as the Three Sisters, utilizes intercropping to confuse and deter pests.
After dedicating a couple of years to nurturing this land, Isaac finally reaps the rewards. “This marks my first year selling at markets. I’ve also begun preparing succotash, an indigenous dish from North America’s east coast featuring corn, onions, collard greens, green beans, black-eyed peas, and garlic from ingredients cultivated right here,” Isaac shares, beaming with satisfaction.
With just enough time to enjoy one last meal, I return to downtown Toronto and settle at the city’s newest dining hotspot, Miss Likklemore’s. Taking refuge under a stylish fringe parasol, I meet co-owner Lonie Murdock, a former wellness coach and personal chef for the renowned American actor Will Smith. When not whipping up wholesome dishes on set, Lonie crafts enticing meals at her chic restaurant, featuring elegant teak furnishings and lively rattan ceiling fans, resembling a slice of Caribbean island life amidst the urban landscape.
“My mother is Jamaican, so this concept resonates profoundly with me,” Lonie tells me, highlighting her haute Caribbean menu. She modernizes family favorites, including her grandmother’s cherished jerk chicken recipe, making them “a little cleaner,” she explains while the upbeat melodies of lovers rock reggae fill the air. I order the jerk chicken, arriving grilled to smoky perfection and bathed in a rich sauce infused with the fiery heat of scotch bonnet chili and aromatic allspice, sourced from the bustling Kensington Market.
As the dining area hums with the after-work crowd, it’s evident that Miss Likklemore’s elevated Caribbean cuisine is captivating the taste buds of Torontonians. But Lonie emphasizes that her achievements are built upon the foundation laid by others in the city. “The pioneers who immigrated from the islands and opened their mom-and-pop establishments in neighborhoods like Toronto’s Little Jamaica—they are the ones who blazed the trail. Thanks to this generation of immigrants, I’ve had the opportunity to expand those culinary boundaries,” Lonie concludes, as a painting of her grandmother watches over the diners, proudly observing as they savor new interpretations of her cherished recipes.
How to do it
Flights from the UK to Toronto take around eight hours. Several airlines fly between the UK and Toronto, including Air Transat from Gatwick, Heathrow, Manchester, and Glasgow nonstop to Toronto year-round, and from Dublin from May to October.
The Drake hotel in Toronto’s Queen West neighborhood has doubles from C$329 (£183) per night.
More info:
destinationontario.com
This story was created with the support of Destination Ontario.
Published in the December 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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What makes Miss Likklemore’s a unique gathering place in Toronto’s culinary scene?
Quickly becomes clear that Miss Likklemore’s is not just about food; it’s a celebration of culture and community. Lonie describes how her restaurant serves as a gathering place for people to connect over shared experiences and flavors. It’s a nod to her heritage, showcasing the vibrant culinary traditions of the Caribbean while infusing them with modern techniques and fresh, local ingredients.
As I savor the last bites of my jerk chicken, complemented by a side of creamy plantain mash and a zesty mango salsa, I reflect on the diverse culinary journey I’ve embarked upon throughout the day. From the innovative fusion dishes at Leaf Doner to the soulful offerings at Miss Likklemore’s, it’s evident that Toronto’s food scene is a testament to the city’s rich tapestry of cultures and communities, each contributing their unique flavors and stories.
With Toronto being a food lover’s paradise, where culinary boundaries blur and creativity reigns, I can’t help but feel grateful for the opportunity to experience such a delicious mosaic of traditions and innovations. As I leave the restaurant, I look forward to what other extraordinary culinary adventures await in this ever-evolving city, where every meal tells a story, and every dish is an invitation to explore the wonderful world of flavors that shape Toronto’s vibrant identity.