2024-10-03 05:30:00
Hyaluronic acid and collagen are two key allies in fight against skin aging. These two components can be complementary, but they also have very distinct roles, as explained to us by Dr Turmel, president of the national union of aesthetic doctors (SNME). Knowing their differences allows you to choose the solutions best suited to your individual needs!
What is collagen?
Collagen is an essential structuring protein found naturally in our body. It is made by fibroblasts (cells found in connective tissue), constitutes approximately 30% of total proteins and plays a key role in the structure of our skin, bones, muscles, tendons and ligaments. .
“It acts like a framework that holds cells together, supporting the firmness and elasticity of our skin », summarizes Dr Turmel. And to specify: “Its production begins to slow down from the thirties, which gradually leads to sagging of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles.”
There are several types of collagen, the main ones being collagen types I, II and III. Each type has specific functions, but all contribute to the strength and flexibility of the fabrics. For example, type I is most present in skin and tendons, while type II is mainly found in cartilage.
Good to know: the collagen currently used in aesthetics is none other than marine collagen.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is also a molecule naturally present in our body, particularly in our skin. He has the exceptional ability to retain up to 1,000 times its weight in watermaking it a powerful moisturizer. “It acts like a sponge and helps maintain hydration in the deeper layers of the skin,” summarizes Dr. Turmel.
Unlike collagen, hyaluronic acid does not directly strengthen the structure of the skin, but deeply hydrates itwhich helps give it a plump appearance. A guaranteed boost! And the expert adds nuance: the production of hyaluronic acid also decreases with age, which can dry out the skin and reduce its plump appearance.
The results are usually immediate with a natural appearance and visible improvement in skin relief. Please note: unlike collagen, hyaluronic acid is well tolerated by all skin types and does not require no allergy tests !
What are the differences between these two anti-aging substances?
These two molecules share the common objective of restoring youthfulness to the skin, but their functioning is fundamentally different…
Let us first note that collagen and hyaluronic acid are very different molecules : collagen is a fibrous protein, while hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide. A structural difference that influences their role and their application in aesthetic treatments.
Hyaluronic acid mainly acts on hydration and volume by retaining water in the tissues. “It fills the spaces between cells and smoothes superficial wrinkles, providing an immediate, but temporary, plumping effect,” says Dr. Turmel. Collagen, for its part, acts on firmness and elasticity by strengthening the internal structure of the skin. It therefore mainly targets deep wrinkles and sagging skin.
Collagen is rather marketed in the form creams or food supplements which aim to stimulate the production of collagen or to provide it directly. Hyaluronic acid is rather used in serums and creams for its immediate moisturizing effect, due to its ability to penetrate the superficial layers of the skin and retain water. It is also used in dermal injections to fill in wrinkles.
Action time. As noted above, the effects of hyaluronic acid are relatively immediate, as it is direct hydration that smoothes the skin’s surface, although this effect is temporary and requires regular reapplication. The effects of collagen are often visible after several weeksor even several months, because it is a process of regeneration of the skin structure. That said, its effects are more lasting in the long term.
Side effects. Although generally safe, treatments with these two substances can cause side effects. Collagen injections were abandoned because they could sometimes cause allergic reactions. Hyaluronic acid injections are safer, but can sometimes cause inflammation. Professional support is essential to assess these risks!
Food supplements, face creams, injections, capsules, serums… What are the best formulas?
As you will have understood, hyaluronic acid and collagen are found in several forms to meet the needs of those seeking to improve the appearance of their skin. Each format has its specificities and offers different results, warns Dr Turmel.
Hyaluronic acid injections
Hyaluronic acid injections are one of the most common procedures in aesthetic medicine. They are used for moisturize the skin in depth, fill fine lines and deep wrinklesbut also restore facial volume (dark circles, hollows, nasolabial folds, bitter folds, lips, cheekbones, chin, etc.). The effects are immediate, with a visible result at the end of the session, but their effect fades in six to eighteen months depending on the area treated and the type of product injected.
Creams and serums based on hyaluronic acid
Topical treatments based on hyaluronic acid are very popular for hydrating the skin. Serums are often preferred for their high concentration, while creams provide surface hydration and barrier protection. All act mainly on the surface of the skinproviding immediate hydration but a temporary anti-aging effect since they do not penetrate deep into the skin.
Moisturizing masks based on hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid-based masks provide intense and rapid hydration. These are one-off solutions that can provide an immediate, but temporary boost. They are therefore often used before an event for a plumped and luminous skin effect.
Capsules and food supplements based on hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is also found in the form of food supplements, often in combination with marine collagen or other nutrients. The effects are less immediate than injectionsbut these supplements can still improve skin hydration, strengthen joints, and slow the breakdown of natural hyaluronic acid over time.
Collagen-based creams and serums
Topical collagen-based treatments aim to improve skin elasticity. “However, as collagen molecules are quite large, they do not easily penetrate the deeper layers of the skin,” warns Dr. Turmel. Creams and serums act mainly on the surfaceproviding flexibility and temporary hydration. The profound effects on strengthening the skin are therefore limited, unless the treatment contains peptides capable of stimulating the natural production of collagen.
Collagen-based face masks
Collagen masks moisturize and restore elasticity to the skin, but also act on the surface. Their effects are temporary, providing a boost of radiance and immediate hydration. They are therefore very effective when used occasionally, before an important event for example.
Collagen-based eye patches
Besides face masks, there are eye patches specifically designed for moisturize and reduce fine lines around the eyes. They offer an immediate and temporary smoothing effect ideal before a special occasion, but they do not permanently correct the signs of aging, Dr Turmel again insists.
Collagen-based capsules and food supplements
Marine collagen is often marketed in the form capsules, powders to mix in drinks or liquid shots. These products are sometimes enriched with vitamin C because it promotes the natural production of collagen in the body. Taken regularly, these supplements can improve skin firmness, reduce wrinkles, and also strengthen hair and nails. However, results take time to appear.
Forget collagen injections (even marine collagen)!
Very popular in the 90s, collagen injections to fill wrinkles have now been replaced by hyaluronic acid injectionsmuch more efficient and safer. As Dr Turmel explains to us, injectable collagen presented a high risk of allergies because it was often derived from animal sources (bovine origin). Injections often required a preliminary test to prevent allergic reactions…
For optimal results, always contact a healthcare professional trained in aesthetic medicine! Dr François Turmel.
How to choose between hyaluronic acid and collagen? Can they be used simultaneously?
The choice between hyaluronic acid and collagen obviously depends your needs and expectations. If you are looking for a quick and visible solution to fill wrinkles or restore volume to certain parts of your face, injectable hyaluronic acid is the best option. On the other hand, if you want to strengthen the structure of your skin and slow down the effects of aging in a lasting manner, collagen, in the form of food supplements or stimulated by aesthetic treatments, is undoubtedly the best approach.
The ideal? Combine the two
Hyaluronic acid and collagen can act synergistically : one hydrates and plumps the skin, while the other strengthens and redensifies it. This combination makes it possible to effectively combat the signs of aging and maintain skin that is supple, firm and radiant, assures Dr. Turmel.
“Make sure you choose high-quality products tailored to your skin type. And if you have specific concerns or suffer from a skin condition, don’t hesitate to consult a dermatologist beforehand,” he advises.
In conclusion, hyaluronic acid and collagen play distinct but complementary roles in fight against skin aging ! And if you want lasting results, it is better to consult a professional in aesthetic medicine to find the solution best suited to your situation.
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