2023-08-09 21:17:04
Jessica Pilz and lead climbing world champion Jakob Schubert confidently reached the final of the top eight at the World Championships in Bern in the combination on Wednesday. Pilz was sixth overall, Schubert managed to finish fifth overall following a moderate performance in bouldering with a top performance in the lead climb. Nicolai Uznik, on the other hand, had to give up in 18th place. The women’s final will take place on Friday (7 p.m.) and the men’s on Saturday (4 p.m.).
7th place in bouldering and 5th place in the lead resulted in 98.5 points for Pilz following two balanced performances in both disciplines. The best of the day was Janja Garnbret from Slovenia (175 points) ahead of Ai Mori from Japan (136.9). “I really climbed quite safely. It didn’t feel quite so easy and I haven’t quite reached the limit yet,” explained Pilz. “The main thing is in the final, that’s the most important thing. On Friday it’s good if you don’t calculate too much and just concentrate on climbing.”
In contrast, Schubert was unable to complete part one of the task as desired, and was only 18th, one place behind Uznik. In his special discipline, the combined world champion 2018 turned up the heat in the evening and finished the route like the best of the day in both disciplines, the Japanese Sorato Anraku (184.9 points), with a top and a total of 144.8 points. “It reminded me of Tokyo (Olympics 2021, note), where I said in front of the lead, it’s already over. With my back to the wall,” said Schubert, who climbed from last place to bronze in the final at the time.
“In these situations I feel less pressure and can climb more freely. I had a great mindset, the route looked great and I immediately got into a good flow. I mightn’t have climbed any better.” Of course, he is also aiming for an improvement in bouldering on Saturday, explained Schubert. Finally, as with the women, the top three will secure a ticket to the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. “I want the Olympic spot and I also have to have a better bouldering round. I have to concentrate fully on that, then it’s possible to get one of three spots.”
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