Chefs in stock in the kitchen against nutritional inequalities

2023-11-16 04:30:05

“In fruits, there are all the vitamins: A, B, C, D, E and K!” A regular at the healthy cooking workshop that he has been following for almost two years, Ibrahim, a 9-year-old Ivorian, instructs his seven fellow cooks by peeling a pear for the fruit salad in the breakfast workshop. “Manue, what is vitamin K once more? » Emmanuelle Mouy, machine gun flow and southern accent responds: “Vitamin K is like potassium: good for the heart! »

In mid-October, at the Palais de la Femme, in the 11th arrondissement of Paris, an accommodation facility managed by the Salvation Army, the twenty-three positions in the shared kitchen are occupied by African women. Around ten children in red aprons take part in the bi-monthly one and a half hour workshop.

Former nurse, Emmanuelle Mouy, 56, passed her CAP in cooking in 2019 and founded the Toques en stock association two years later, to reduce nutritional inequalities and learn “eat better” to precarious populations. “At the start of our partnership with the Salvation Army, we worked with residents of the Palais de la Femme: isolated women or mothers, she explains. Then, a few children wanted to learn how to peel vegetables. They were so involved that we made them our “ambassadors” to go and talk regarding food and health in a local school. They also educate their parents. »

“Iron-cooked mackerel papillotes”

At a time when, according to INSEE, inflation reached 4% in October and 7.7% for foodstuffs, the question of access to healthy food is more problematic than ever. According to a study by the CSA Institute in February, the number of food aid beneficiaries has tripled in ten years, reaching 2.4 million people at the end of 2022. And sales of low-cost products increased by 20% in a year, according to the Nielsen Institute, which collects figures from mass distribution every month for the Inflation Observatory of 60 Million consumers.

“For vulnerable people, it’s a double whammy, we eat less and poorly: the food packages that three quarters of vulnerable people use are often full of sugar and fat, they are real health time bombs,” regrets Emmanuelle Mouy.

She also travels around Paris and its suburbs with her van equipped with a refrigerator, filled with spices, basic ingredients, utensils, recipe cards from the National Nutrition and Health Program, reaching out to people in difficulty. She goes to social hotels, shared kitchens (where you can prepare your own meals in the absence of an individual kitchen), day reception centers and emergency accommodation centers. “When there is no hob, we customize recipes: marengo veal in the kettle, mackerel packets in the iron. » In this last example, it involves putting aluminum on the shoe of the iron, then protecting the food with baking paper and ironing it in order to cook it.

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