Did it live up to your expectations?
Upon reflection, I must say that my dining experience in Seoul far exceeded my initial expectations, particularly considering the immense culinary growth the city has undergone over the past decade. Ten years ago, I was indeed pleased with the gastronomic scene, but I sensed a degree of experimentation, a search for identity. However, my recent visit revealed a city that has not only found its culinary voice but has also refined it, presenting a sophisticated and vibrant food culture that truly impressed me. One of the highlights of my trip was a meal that I would categorize as perhaps the best I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying in a Seoul restaurant.
Mingles was clearly a splurge. What was the best cheap thing you ate?
While the term “cheap” might be relative, I chanced upon a hidden gem that offered an incredibly satisfying dining experience without the hefty price tag. Mr. Ahn’s, a trendy makgeolli bistro nestled in a hip area of the city, caters to a young and lively clientele, reminiscent of a traditional Japanese izakaya. What stole the show was the gigantic calamari dish, expertly prepared and presented in a way that was both visually appealing and tantalizing to the taste buds. The calamari, which was about a foot in length, was stuffed with a savory rice mixture, sliced into manageable portions, and served with a sauce crafted from the calamari’s ink, blended with a spicy kick that I believe was courtesy of kimchi juice. The combination was nothing short of fantastic, offering a depth of flavors that lingered long after the meal.
Which meal came with the best view?
Among the many memorable dining experiences I had in Seoul, one that stands out for its breathtaking view was a meal at Jinkwasa, a serene temple located in the heart of a lush forest, overlooking the sprawling cityscape. This temple is renowned for its vegan temple food, which not only caters to the palate but also to the soul, providing a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. The setting, with its majestic mountains, gentle river, and the soothing sounds of nature, offers a dining experience that is as much about the feast for the eyes as it is about the flavors on the plate. It’s a place where one can truly connect with nature while savoring each bite, making it, in my opinion, the most dramatic and peaceful view one can enjoy while dining in Seoul.
The one dish you’d fly back for?
Without a doubt, there’s one culinary masterpiece that I would eagerly return to Seoul for: Yangnyeom Gejang, or marinated crab. This dish is truly special and unlike anything I’ve encountered elsewhere, even in the Koreatown of New York. The preparation process is fascinating; crabs are placed in a jar, covered in a mixture of soy sauce and rice vinegar, and then marinated for several days, remarkably, while still alive. The result is a dish that is both visually striking and bursting with flavor, served with the crab’s eggs and legs intact. My quest for the best Yangnyeom Gejang led me to Hwahaedang, a culinary gem that was challenging to find but well worth the effort. This modest establishment, known mostly to locals and requiring advance reservations, offers a pure, unadulterated experience of this unique dish, where one goes, savors the marinated crab, and leaves, an experience as simple as it is profound.
Finally, any food items you packed to bring home?
As is my tradition, I always make it a point to bring back certain culinary treasures from my travels. From Seoul, I packed doenjang, the Korean equivalent of miso but with a slightly different fermentation process, which I find fascinating. Additionally, I included high-quality soy sauce, perilla oil, which I’ve grown particularly fond of, and some black sesame seeds to incorporate into my home cooking. Interestingly, just this past weekend, I experimented with sautéing broccoli in perilla oil and sprinkling it with sesame seeds, a simple yet delightful dish. Moreover, I was generously gifted jars of homemade kimchi by friends, each family’s recipe a treasured secret. Kimchi, to me, embodies the heart of Korean cuisine and culture, a true culinary treasure.
First published on Condé Nast Traveler
