2023-09-20 12:01:27
Boris Provost has been at the head of the Tranoï show since 2019, former marketing and communications leader of Who’s Next, has been able to reposition the show with the aim of selectivity and international presence. Business interview between editorial line and fashion shows in the post-Covid era.
The next edition, 2023, takes place from September 28 to October 1 at the Palais Brongniart. Everything is ready ?
Boris Provost: We are full! We will present 180 collections with 70% ready-to-wear and 30% accessories. There are around twenty French collections, and the majority 85% are foreign collections, which testifies to a return to a pre-Covid level in terms of number of exhibitors, number of collections and origins of country. What’s new for this edition is the arrival of Chinese brands at the show.
What is the share of the Chinese market?
We have a delegation of Korean brands, because we have always had a lot of Japanese brands and currently we have a lot of Chinese brands. We signed a contract with the China Fashion Association, which is the equivalent of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, and for the first time, they created an export support program.
What is Tranoï’s “editorial line”?
We no longer want to assert ourselves as a mainstream show, but as a show recognized for its selectivity and its support for young creation. In our offer, we have around 30% of French and foreign brands present for the first, second or third time. We also always have a seasonal theme, for example with a segment called “Vacations”, where the brands we present are sustainable and produced locally. If it’s an accessory, we ensure that these are brands that make communities work, preserve know-how and have selective distribution.
Today, what are the needs of post-Covid buyers?
Most luxury brands are refocusing on distribution in their stores, and this is leading to a drop in sales in multi-brand retail, so it was a shock for the fabric of retailers, who have to review their offers and therefore bring in revenue. new products. For the store departments, they try to seek out a more individual clientele, which has a positive impact for Tranoï, because this clientele has greater purchasing power. And for department stores, and American and Asian exports, there is a return to product consumption, particularly on the French market, in Paris.
How to impose a physical exhibition internationally, at a time when the Internet is competing?
The real competition is Instagram. Today, the buyer is more lazy, he is often on his phone, especially on Instagram which constantly offers new brands. My job, and therefore also to find new creators and an experience that will maintain the physical desire of the buyer. The vocation of Tranoï in Paris is to be a show of discovery, of networking, so for example for Shanghai, you have to go there. I travel a lot, to do scouting, that’s when we sign deals with collectives or organizations. We have the example of Seoul Fashion Week, which subsidizes brands that come to the shows. This is the most important part of my job.
How can we concretely improve the physical encounter?
In Tranoï, we organize guided tours of the show, because generally when people come to Paris they don’t have much time. It’s a one-to-one job, but that’s how you generate interest!
Marilyn Fitoussi is the Fashion Editor of this edition, how are her views and experience a very good choice for Tranoï?
It’s great to have her, because she is passionate regarding young creations, new trends, and she doesn’t like obvious things, and we said to ourselves that she fit our DNA perfectly. She will be present at the show and we will give an opening conference together. The plan is for her to do a 360 shopping trip for the next season of Emily in Paris!
Interview Anaïs Dubois
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