On the catwalk from New York to Paris, passing through London and Milan.
The big four cities of fashion, the fabulous four, continue to give us emotions.
Of course, we all admit that we expected much more from New York and London – which seemed subdued – and perhaps, but I don’t want to be too defeatist, even Milan could have given us much more. However, let’s leave aside that discreet sense of incompleteness.
Even though times change, and Paris is no longer the center of style, it is still able to drag us into the fashionable allure that it brings with it.
On the catwalk
With Emily’s enthusiasm, when she flies from NY to Paris, we throw ourselves on the Parisian catwalks. The second day offers a perfect mix: like a good bartender expert in the art of mixology, and who knows if it is not the winning card, new names join big giants. It is the emblem of this day that has seen in the calendar – for example – a contrast of historicity. Founded in 2023, Alain Paul, opens the second day and in the middle we find (the essence of French fashion, together with Mademoiselle Chanel) Dior.
Alain Paul
New, brand new, brings the world of dance to the stage. “ I want to bring the dancer’s wardrobe to the streets”, Alain Paul clearly expresses his idea. A world made of stretch fabrics, crepe, knitwear, silks and a play of colors and transparencies.
Clean lines and contemporary silhouettes, tailored elements combined with innovative materials, give freshness to the collection.
Black and white dominate, along with clean lines, there is attention to detail but also notes of colors such as dark red and a pleasant contrast of pale yellow and gray. All assembled with rigor and elegance. Exactly what you would see in a ballet at the Opera.
Ruohan
Still on the subject of rigor and elegance, even though it has nothing to do with the world of tulle and pointed shoes, we see the essentiality of Ruohan Nie’s minimalist style. Strong in her inspiration linked to the world of art, travel and design – directly from China – she takes us on a fashion show where the only goal is to lead us by the hand into this world.
The models paraded outside a square, veiled by themselves, where live music accompanied the catwalk. Music as delicate as the fabrics shown, in neutral color palettes, soft and at the same time feminine. A set of details and accessories, such as shoulder bags, moccasins, clutches that create a combination of elegance and refinement together with the essential.
So far, no extravagance has been seen.
The moment to amaze us comes soon. With a reinterpretation of the myth of the Amazons, Maria Grazia Chiuri celebrates the contemporary woman.
A bit like Hermès did in the FW 24/25 collection.
Christian Dior
With bow and arrows, references to Christian Dior’s equestrian inspiration, a series of looks combine sporty aesthetics with haute couture ones.
Fluid and comfortable dresses alternate with tailored suits, all embellished with technical details and innovative materials. The silhouettes are slender and dynamic, perfect for a woman always on the move.
A key element of the collection is the revisitation of the classic Dior suit. Jackets and trousers are proposed in technical fabrics and have more sporty cuts, creating a fascinating contrast with the femininity of the lines.
However, it is the sportswear that steals the show.
Tracksuits, leggings and sweatshirts are revisited in a luxury key, with the addition of precious details and artisanal workmanship. The shoes, a mix between boots and flip-flops, and the sneakers with stretch leggings complete the look.
From mythology we move to magic. Of course, it is still a mythological creature, but it is easily connected to a magical world. We are talking about Florentina Leitner’s unicorn.
Florentina Leitner
A collection that is pure fantasy. On the catwalk, sparkling fabrics, playful color combinations -that take us back to our childhood, between glitter and tulle, when we all wanted to be princesses- eye-catching accessories and a bold use of red and black. All this takes us to a dreamlike dimension, probably what we need without knowing it, and opens us to a world of recycled fabrics, 3D prints, artisanal workmanship and floral designs.
With eco-sustainable materials and a pinch of irony, we do not give up talking about the eternal battle between good and evil. Yes, because the collection, by the Austrian designer is inspired by “The Last Unicorn” by Peter S. Beagle. As we can easily guess from the theme on the catwalk.
In this journey through elegance, rigor, mythology and magic we arrive at the conclusion of this second day.
Saint Laurent
Leather jackets with broad shoulders, sunglasses, double-breasted suits and tailored trousers paired with heels. The runway references menswear from the 50s. Vaccarello has managed to perfectly balance eroticism and sophistication, creating pieces that are both provocative and chic. The color palette, dominated by black and white, was interrupted by touches of vibrant color, such as fiery red and electric blue, which added a touch of vivacity to the creations.
Impeccable tailoring and oversized proportions gave the pieces a sophisticated, modern feel.
The choice to have the models parade in a minimalist environment allowed to highlight the strength of the creations, without distractions. Last but not least: the engaging soundtrack perfectly accompanied the show, creating an intense and exciting atmosphere.
This second day of Paris Fashion Week takes us to the heart of fashion, where anything is possible.
Photocredits: Instagram
