2023-11-16 00:30:00
The old Cap-Rouge has been enriched in the last year with a high-end but relaxed bistro led by the young chef Étienne Nadeau, a great enthusiast of Quebec products.
Chez Amber, located in a charming ancestral house, no white tablecloth or formal service. The atmosphere is friendly and festive, like the owners, who welcome me in hoodies and a tuque on my head.
“It’s a bit like having you at home, that’s my philosophy. We’re not being pretentious, explains chef Étienne, 30, who opened the restaurant with his partner, Sandrine Grenon, 27. This is what I like to call fun dining.»
This cool and relaxed approach does not mean that cooking is taken lightly. Quite the contrary. The menu, bistronomic style, is carefully thought out and executed with meticulousness by the chef and his brigade.
Halibut Photo Marianne White
The menu, of around a dozen dishes, changes regularly according to the seasons and supplies. It highlights Quebec land and sea products that the owner knows and loves, such as scallops and lobster from the Magdalen Islands. Ambre also offers wines and spirits from Quebec.
“It’s always been ingrained, maybe it comes from my teachers at school, but it’s important for me to highlight local products,” says the chef, who studied management. catering establishment at Cégep Limoilou.
Homemade focaccia bread Photo Marianne White
Complex but simple at the same time
The concept is simple: you order several small plates to share in good company.
During my visit, I enjoyed a spicy beef carpaccio with delicately marinated chanterelles, parmesan, a touch of homemade mayo and tangy mustard seeds.
Beef carpaccio Photo Marianne White
I loved the Gaspésie halibut, cooked sous vide like the majority of meats and fish served here. Placed on a celeriac remoulade, it is accompanied by an exquisite and very light white wine sauce, which you will want to savor until the last drop.
The star of the evening was the lobster bisque risotto. The crustacean is unparalleled tender and the lemon mousse, served as a garnish, adds a nice touch of acidity.
Lobster bisque risotto Photo Marianne White
Chef Étienne, who made himself known thanks to his street trucks El Gordito and Recettes Paumées, constantly seeks balance in his dishes and it is successful.
“There is complexity, research, a guideline in my dishes, but without putting too much flair. It’s still high-end food that we make, but we don’t want to distort the product,” he explains.
The latter has been broadcasting videos on Instagram and TikTok for several months in which he casually cooks the new dishes on his menu. We feel all the inspiration of a web star, chef Laurent Dagenais, in these mouth-watering capsules.
A tight-knit team
The conviviality also translates into the service and the kitchen, where you quickly perceive the team spirit.
The young team at bistro Ambre, from left to right, Sandrine Grenon, co-owner, Charlotte Giguère, Étienne Nadeau, co-owner, Jean-Simon Dufour, Alexia Carreau and Manuel Cabas Munster. Photo Marianne White
“Customers feel that we are having fun, they see that our team is close-knit. We feel it with our open kitchen,” says Sandrine.
The equal sharing of tips between all employees, introduced upon opening in July 2022, is certainly no stranger to this.
“It’s important for us and I’ve been campaigning for it for a long time,” insists Étienne. The restaurant also won a grant from the Association Restauration Québec for its good practices in human resources.
The establishment attracts foodies local, but also from Portneuf and Sainte-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier, where this type of “destination” restaurant was lacking.
Amber
4292, rue Saint-Félix
Open Wednesday to Sunday from 5:30 p.m.
See also:
1700107263
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