All about Twelfth Night and Mardi Gras in New Orleans

The carnival is here and, as Mardi Gras approaches, it’s time to learn regarding its main traditions. So get your best costume on and join the parade – following all, the party has just begun.

It’s the twelfth night, it’s Epiphany, it’s Twelfth Night. A mysterious mist envelopes the banks of the Mississippi, gently extending its hold over the city, in a resolutely sensual movement. And it is in this atmosphere of deliciously Gothic charm that kings and queens of another kind have decided to make their appearance. Soldiers, all dressed in chain mail, announce their arrival with bugles and other trumpets, seeming to ward off the mist in their path. Then appears a young woman on a horse, smiling just as sparkling as the sword she brandishes. It is rumored that it would be Joan of Arc. And the latter came accompanied by guests of choice: the King and Queen of France themselves.

As he passes by my side, comfortably seated in a sedan chair, good old Charles VII (who would have thought that he would be reincarnated in New Orleans?) throws me a small package, which I catch with excitement. Inside ? The gift I was secretly waiting for: the ring of mischief (“the ring of mischief”). I wish I might tell you that it was a sumptuous silver ring, set with a multitude of rubies – let’s say we were more on plastic made in China. It’s the thought that counts, right?

You may have understood it: this procession with resolutely sarcastic accents marks the beginning of the carnival – and this ring authorizes me to accomplish all the misdeeds that I wish until the day of Mardi Gras. Thank you Charles (following all, he might have thrown matches at me, which would have been a little less cool). And since I feel invested with special powers, now is the time to reveal to you – with all the malice that belongs to me – the three commandments of carnival.

Plenty of “king cake” you will taste

Is it really useful to give you the translation of king cake ? This king cake is the equivalent of our age-old galette and is eaten every year throughout Louisiana from January 6th. No frangipane, but a beautiful multicolored frosting, representing the three colors of Mardi Gras: purple, green and gold. Point de féve either, replaced by a baby silver or gold, which looks like a slightly scary mini-doll, carefully hidden under a thick layer of pastry cream, available in different flavors (I strongly advise once morest the banana flavor).

And for the past few weeks, it has to be said that my fridge and my freezer have been gradually filling up with king cakes of all kinds, obtained at the option of dinners and other evenings organized at my place. I currently count four, and it’s not uncommon for me to find a half-eaten slice at the bottom of my fridge – bon appetit. Because yes, it must be said, between the pastry cream, the brioche and a sweet icing that can easily reach half a centimeter in thickness, finish its share of king cake sometimes a challenge.

It is therefore above all a matter of quality. Supermarkets offer an industrial version with garish icing, seeming to have been designed by a middle class in need of creative projects. The best patisseries in town offer a much more subtle version (for a larger sum). The most beautiful that I received as a gift? A magnificent king cake with a deliciously iridescent glaze, shimmering elegantly in the sunlight. I keep it jealously in my freezer – but maybe I’ll end up giving you a slice on Mardi Gras?

Rudy Bazenet’s building, decorated for Mardi Gras. PHOTO Rudy Bazenet

Shimmering disguises you will choose

Carnival is above all the art of disguise – and isn’t that all its appeal? Venice has its masks, Rio has its feathers and New Orleans has its second degree. And the disguises feel it. No particular theme here: just a bit of decadence. And you are therefore free to choose the disguise of your choice. Running out of ideas? here is the starter pack anyone wishing to immerse themselves in the unique atmosphere of Mardi Gras to their fingertips (literally) without too much effort: a wig (preferably neon pink), leggings (all neon colors will adapt occasion and you’ll make an even bigger splash if you opt for a croc pattern), and of course, make-up shiny. In New Orleans, masks are not particularly part of the game (sorry Venice), and it is therefore your outfit and especially your makeup that will be your greatest assets. So, let’s go for a tutorial make-up in good standing? One piece of advice: give yourself the sole objective of shining like the most beautiful king cakes. And for that, purple, green or gold will do just fine – and if it’s iridescent, it’s even better. Last tip: if you can embellish everything with a multitude of pearl necklaces in these same three colors, it’s even better. So get ready pimper ?

In the “krewes” you will dance and get lost

Once your king cake tasted and your best disguise put on, maybe the time has come to party, right? And for that, what better than a krewe ? A small point of vocabulary is essential: the term “krewe” is a distortion (following all, carnival is conducive to distortion) of the word “crew”, which means “crew” in English. The first ones krewes were founded from XIXe century, with the aim of organizing the parades that parade on Mardi Gras day – and creating the floats that accompany them. The city now has a hundred of them, and each krewe its particular theme. All tinged with a healthy dose of sarcasm.

And let’s not forget: the carnival is above all a popular festival, involving the entire population. You will therefore have the choice between attending a sumptuous ball given by Rex, one of the krewes history of the city, founded from the XIXe century (atmosphere posh guaranteed), or dancing in the street with Indian Mardi Gras, from krewes bringing together African-Americans disguised for the occasion as “Indians”, according to a very ancient tradition. And I would like to tell you regarding my krewe favorite (at least for now): Old Krewe. Understand the Vieux Carré, the historic district of the city. And if I like this parade, it is above all because it wants to be as irreverent as possible, echoing the major political issues of the past year – and sarcasm and ribaldness are part of it. This year’s theme? Vaxxed and confused (“vaccinated and lost”). And propriety does not allow me to tell you more at this stage. After all, I wouldn’t want you to “catch your pearls” (as the New Orleans phrase goes).

So, is it time to party? find your krewe, join the crowd and let the magic happen. After all, you don’t need to have received the ring of mischief from the hands of Charles VII to have fun. So, as they say in New Orleans, “let the good times roll.”

Author

Rudy Bazenet

Rudy Bazenet is French and lives in Louisiana, USA. He blogs for Courrier Expat. For him, “Writing Louisiana is above all trying to transcribe a multiple identity, an elusive encounter between the northern Caribbean and the southern United States. Far from being a simple space with outdated exoticism, Louisiana is constantly reinventing itself in the elsewhere, in the encounter”. And this also echoes the experience of Rudy Bazenet: from Paris to New Orleans, from the ranks of French diplomacy to the creation of his cultural foundation, the encounter is at the heart of his identity – and now of his story. .

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Launched in April 2016 and intended for French expatriates and candidates for expatriation, Courrier Expat offers information drawn from the international press on the professional and personal environment of French nationals abroad, on the

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