40 minutes ago
Photo credit, Maher Mezahi
In our series of letters from African writers, Maher Mezahi talks regarding his enriching experiences in France compared to Algeria, where he lived until a few months ago.
In the wonderfully chaotic district of Noailles, in the center of Marseille, France, I realized, unfortunately, that it is much easier to get to know the different African cultures when living abroad.
This paradox hit me in the face while I was dining on a plastic folding chair in a Tunisian restaurant in Noailles.
Between two large spoonfuls of merguez ojja (a dish made with sausage and eggs), I watched a couple of retired Comorians walking down the street, hand in hand, in front of a Senegalese shop selling donuts.
Like many Comorians I observed in Marseilles, the gentleman wore a rich golden cap on which were embroidered white Koranic verses.
Curiosity took over, so I quickly searched the internet for “Comorian hat” and learned that he was wearing what is called a “kofia”, which some Comorians wear daily as a symbol of their status.
Photo credit, AFP
Kofias are popular in the Comoros, with decorative pinholes allowing air to circulate.
This arbitrary but rewarding observation would have been virtually impossible in Algeria, where I had lived for the previous seven years and where I rarely interacted with people of other races or nationalities.
Of course, you can sometimes find Tunisians or Moroccans in Algeria, but, for the most part, we only know the culinary and clothing delights of our own culture.
However, since I moved to Marseilles last month, I have met more than a dozen Africans of different nationalities.
The most eclectic mix of African communities is found especially in the working-class areas of the north – which tourist guidebooks recommend you avoid.
It’s not uncommon to wander into a weekend market and talk to Comorian, Senegalese and Algerian vendors within yards of each other – and as a result, a strong pan-African feeling has developed here.
Photo credit, Maher Mezahi
Marseille is the oldest city in France and has the reputation of being the most multicultural.
In the metro, I see advertisements for the Africa Fete music festival which will take place at the end of the month.
The prestigious Maurice Revello football tournament is also underway and the three African nations – Algeria, Comoros and Ghana – have enjoyed enthusiastic support when they have played.
Algeria once morest Comoros, in particular, was a matter of brotherhood. This meant a lot to many people from Marseille whose origins can be traced back to these countries.
It got me thinking regarding how we treat each other on the continent. We are often influenced by the conflicts that our governments or political groups maintain.
During a visit to Abidjan in 2017, for example, I was struck by the number of Ivorians who told me regarding the religious divide between north and south, and their fear of seeing Burkinabe immigrants stealing. the work of “real Ivorians”.
The governments of Algeria and Morocco, Egypt and Sudan, Tanzania and Kenya, to name a few, have rivalries to varying degrees, which can affect relations between their citizens.
However, when I am in neutral countries, I often observe that people are attracted to each other because of the proximity of their customs.
They intermarry, share places of worship, open restaurants, and spend countless hours dating.
Maher Mezahi
The regrettable truth is that at the moment Africans can learn more regarding their continent from Europe than from any of the 54 countries we call home”
And many people find it easier and cheaper to travel to African countries from Europe.
I experienced this last week. I was able to book a direct flight to Morocco to watch the African Champions League final between Wydad Casablanca and Egyptian giants Al Ahly.
If I had still lived in Algeria, I would have had to go through Europe, because there are currently no direct flights between Algeria and Morocco and the land borders have been closed since 1994.
The total price of my trip would therefore have been three or four times the price I paid.
To make matters worse, many Africans also need a visa to travel to another African country.
I find it outrageous that I can visit more African countries without a visa with my Canadian passport than with my Algerian passport.
In 2013, the African Union promised borderless travel to the continent, but that appears to be a pipe dream.
So the unfortunate truth is that today Africans can learn more regarding their continent from Europe than from any of the 54 countries we call home.