Do you know Manzano Amargo? There are plenty of reasons to discover this jewel in the north of Neuquén, 528 km away and about seven hours by car from the provincial capital. The first thing you have to know: it is an area of muleteers and you have to drive slowly because there are still some who go to the summer lands with their pine cones so that the young of the chivas become strong with the pastures of the hills and the meltwater. You go along the beautiful route 54, the condors fly over, you are at the foot of the Andes mountains and those little valleys and those peaks look like something out of a movie and everything is as real as when you look at the sky at night and see how the stars shine when there is no light pollution. And when planning the outings during the day, there is a key fact: you cannot believe the waterfalls.
The Forge Waterfall
It is the best known. It is 4 km from Manzano Amargo and has a gastronomic inn inaugurated last summer that added a parador with toilets, a deck with outdoor tables, a path pedestrian to the viewpoint, informative signage and parking which has not yet opened its doors this season.
He the forge streamwhich is born in the springs of the forest of the Llao Llao About 5 km further up, it gives life to this charming waterfall of about 40 meters.
Of course, you have to circulate with caution, Since the Route 54, which starts when Route 43 turns towards Varvarco, is gravel from Las Ovejas and there are saws. and with the drought, the trucks and the children of the crianceros have to drive slowly and enjoy the scenery.
it’s over most of the hundred muleteers, but you can always come across one. Quite a spectacle to contemplate without accelerating and stopping to talk with the nomadic breeders. “You have to take it into account on the route, they are part of our identity,” Malvina Antiñir, president of the Manzano Amargo and Pichi Neuquén Promotion Commission, told Voy.
We recommend a visit, as part of a circuit of nearby attractions. For example, if you go in summer, to the west is Pichi Neuquenthe last place before the 54 gets into the positions of the crianceros among the mountains, meters from the neuquen river and there just Chile. It is unforgettable.
hidden waterfall
The Escondida waterfall is 2 km from La Fragua along the road that goes to the Llao Llao. At the side of the route there is a sign and a guided trail. since i know expanded access that leads to the Llao Llao Forest Two vehicles can circulate at the same time on that steep road. And although there is still a need for it to be well leveled, with care you can travel.
To get there, if you turn left a few meters before La Fragua by the access that leads to Los Llao Llao forest, In addition to enjoying another perspective of the waterfall, two km laterbetween stunted and mountain ñires is the “girl” waterfall. A marvel worth knowing. Don’t be surprised if you come across chinchillones, foxes, hares and rabbits, among other species that take refuge in the fences.
Las Tapaderas Waterfall
The Las Tapaderas waterfall is about a two hour and 40 minute walk from Manzano Amargo and is one of the hidden gems of the north of neuquén.
In the waterfall parking lot Forge there is a wooden sign indicating the Llao Llao Forestyou have to go up that route for about 3 km and go to the sign that indicates: Quebrada Honda stream, which is right in the bifurcation to Laguna Navarretewhere you have to go. The ones that continue to the Las Tapaderas waterfall are about five more km of difficult geography.
It is advisable to seek advice from baqueanos in the area to arrive and consult Turismo de Manzano Amargo.
Pichi Ñire waterfall
It’s about two hours and 12 kilometer hike east of Manzano Amargo to one of the hidden wonders of the north of neuquén, at the Pichi Ñire waterfall in an area of transhumant breeders.
It is a small and beautiful waterfall at the height of the natural beauty that surrounds it, which is enjoyed at every step in the trekking of about two hours. It is towards Varvarco, almost in front of Los Bolillos
“The road presents a medium difficultygiven that its unevenness does not exceed 700 meters. From its highest point you can see the town of bitter apple with incredible panoramic views around 1,500 meters approximately”, describes the photographer Brian Muñoz.
«It is one of the many magical places that the north of Neuquén has. It is not easy to get to the waterfall, you need someone who knows because it is not a tourist attraction that is enabled with its location, but it can be reached with a baqueano guide or someone who knows the area“he adds.
This waterfall is also located a few steps from the first cemetery from the area.
In front you can see the bolillos and background the Domuyo volcano. It is a place with a lot of history », he points out.
How to get to Manzano Amargo
How to get? If we take as reference neuquen capitalyou have to go for the national route 22 to Zapalajoin with the mythical national route 40 to Chos Malal (you can load fuel) and there take the spectacular provincial route 43, go through Andacollo (you can also load fuel), Villa Nahueve and Las Ovejas, where the asphalt ends. You continue along the gravel road and about 18 km further on, when the 43 turns to the right towards Varvarco, the also spectacular Route 54. It’s 21 km more to Manzano Amargo.
About 5 km after that fork you cross a bridge over a stream (good place to take some photos of the domuyo volcano) and from there you go along the river on a path boxed in between walls and rocks, where the condoreras are. It is so beautiful that it will make you want to stop for a while to contemplate the landscape in silence and surprising with the flight of condors. It is also the habitat of other wild and aquatic birds. This section is one of the favorite places for fishermen during the season.
In Bitter apple you will find four open pantries, Wi-Fi, cell phone signal and cabins from 8,000 pesos.
More information. Bitter Manzano Tourism: +54 9 2942 68-1061
The Tourist Office is at the entrance to the town, over the Municipal Gymnasium, on a provisional basis while the new headquarters are being built.
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