The last-minute wine battle is underway at Domaine Barbossi in Mandelieu, owned by Franco-Lebanese businessman Iskandar Safa. The harvest, which was to start next week, has been brought forward. Urgently. “The analyzes showed that maturity had been reached on a first plot of the Rolle grape variety” emphasizes Pascal Paulze. Since 6:45 a.m., the sommelier (Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2015) of the Oasis, in charge of the vineyard for a year and a half, has swapped his chic suit for boots and a cap. With him, a dozen pickers have been working feverishly in the organic-labeled vineyard since 2021.
Hail Effects
At 9:30 a.m., the sun is already blazing. Quick gesture, concentrated mine, Thomas, 35, gardener, came to lend a hand. Quick, we have to pick up “before the grapes get hot”. Delicately. Cluster following cluster. The precious sun-drenched fruits accumulate in buckets: 2.5 tonnes gleaned in one morning.
But some grains are damaged. Stunted. Stigmas caused by the hailstorm of June 16… “Hence a loss of 5 to 10% in quantity, but in quality we will have more balanced juices than last year, with finer wines in the end” bet Patrick Marmorat, head winemaker for two years.
grafted feet
If 18,000 bottles (red, white, rosé) were released last year, the 2023 vintage will be more modest. “Because we top-grafted in April twoplots -1,500 vines- of Chardonnay in later varieties: Clairette Rose and Assyrtiko. This last variety grown in Santorini in Greece is very tolerant to drought and will benefit from the root system of our 15-year-old vine.” rejoices Pascal Paulze. Barbossi therefore anticipates future climate change. A fitting choice with its volcanic soil…to be found soon in the mouth!
“Towards haute couture cuvées”
In the estate’s cellar, stainless steel wooden vats and giant concrete eggs will soon house the precious nectars. Yesterday, the freshly squeezed grape juice was already releasing all its sugars.
“12.8° alcohol content at the key”, put Patrick Marmorat, thirty years of profession in Var areas. From manual pruning, to treatment with sulfur and copper, or bottling, this Burgundian manages everything from A to Z. The harvest? “A stress and a relief because the grape is sheltered”.
Today, the wines of the Domaine de Barbossi 2022 are marketed at the Cave de l’Oasis, in renowned restaurants or at local wine merchants (from 14 to 24€ per bottle). But Pascal Paulze’s strategy aims to move upmarket towards haute couture cuvées. “The idea is to go up in quality and prices to reach €30 to €35 a bottle”.
To this end, 2,500 vines of the Sicilian Néro d’Avola grape variety will be planted next year on the estate. But it will be necessary to wait four years before the first harvest…
